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Photo by Andrew Ogden

Photo: Andrew Ogden


Secrets of the Upper Jago, Arctic National Wildlife Refuge
June 19-30, 2008

Highlights:

  • Explore a seldom-visited part of the Arctic National Wildlife Refuge
  • Experience the 24-hour sunlight of Arctic spring
  • Observe caribou, bears, wolves and other wildlife

Includes:

  • Charter flights to and from the Arctic Refuge
  • All meals and cooking gear
  • All permits and entrance fees

Trip Number: 08019A

Price: $4,195

Deposit: $200

Capacity: 4

Leader: Andrew Ogden

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The Trip

This trip has been canceled. If you have questions, please contact us.

In June, the tundra and mountains north of the Arctic Circle are bathed in 24-hour daylight as the long winter releases its icy grip on the landscape. During the brief spring and summer, the Arctic National Wildlife Refuge is a land of wild rivers rushing with snowmelt, ranging predators, migrating birds, prolific wildflowers, and the annual migration of the Porcupine caribou herd as it returns from eastern Canada to its ancestral calving grounds on the Coastal Plain.

The purpose of our trip is to explore a very remote part of the Refuge in the upper drainages of the Jago River and the surrounding mountains and glaciers. We also should witness the Porcupine migration through these remote mountain valleys and see other wildlife in this seldom-visited area. Our route will be strenuous as we travel over rugged terrain, following drainages, traversing high mountain passes, and crossing numerous creeks and rivers.

In addition to having the personal experience of a lifetime, participants will also see first hand the effects of climate change on the fragile Arctic ecosystems. By visiting the Refuge, participants will come to appreciate more fully this vast, remote, wild and intimidating place, and gain a deeper understanding of its unique status as the most significant wilderness area remaining in the United States.

Itinerary

Photo by Janet Cerretani
Photo: Janet Cerretani

The trip begins in Fairbanks, where we will fly north via regional air service to the Gwich'in settlement of Arctic Village. From there we will shuttle via bush plane in a spectacular flight over the Brooks Range to a tundra strip in the Arctic National Wildlife Refuge by the Jago River. Our trek will begin here.

Our route will explore the upper Jago River drainage and the surrounding mountains and glaciers that are part of the northern flanks of the Brooks Range. From the landing strip, we will head south up the Jago River for several days, passing the heavily glaciated Mt. Itso (9,060’) to the west and possibly exploring some of the steep valleys that lead to its summit.

Photo by Janet Cerretani
Photo: Janet Cerretani

Once we reach the upper Jago, we will explore the high mountainous terrain that crest at the Continental Divide, and at that time choose one of several possible routes, possibly crossing the divide into the Upper Sheenjek River drainage or looping back towards the Coastal Plain. Our actual route will be determined by the path of the caribou migration, weather conditions, our ability to cross rivers and high passes and where we can be picked up by our pilot. Whatever route we follow we will see stunningly beautiful mountains and glaciers, wildlife, and visit spots where few people have ever travelled. Hopefully, we should also see a significant portion of the Porcupine Caribou migration returning from the Coastal Plain. From our pick up spot we will end our trip with another spectacular flight by bush plane to Arctic Village and then by scheduled air service to Fairbanks.

Getting There

Photo by Andrew Ogden
Photo: Andrew Ogden

Trip members are responsible for arranging their own transportation to and from the trip's starting point in Fairbanks. We strongly advise that you arrive in Fairbanks at least one full day ahead of schedule to allow for delayed luggage. Arctic air travel, commercial or charter, is not always on schedule due to weather conditions as well as a more laid back business approach. You should also allow for at least one flexible day at the end of the trip in case we encounter unexpected weather delays. Note that charter flights during the trip are included in the trip fee.

Accommodations and Food

The cost of lodging in Fairbanks before and after the trip is not included in the trip price. After we leave Fairbanks all nights will be spent camping in the Refuge. All meals and snacks are provided for the duration of the trip, and the menu will be primarily vegetarian with dairy and eggs. Participants are responsible for notifying the trip leader of any special dietary requirements. The Sierra Club will furnish stoves, pots, cooking gear, and fuel. All meals will be prepared and eaten as a group, and everybody will be required to take turns assisting in the preparation of meals, cleaning up afterwards, and with other camp chores.

Trip Difficulty

We will be hiking in a rugged wilderness area with no trails except those made by wildlife. Hiking will be on tundra, river bars, with moderate to strenuous mountain passes and possibly some peaks. Our route, not including side trips, should be approximately 50 miles, altitude ranging between 2,500’ to 8,000’. Because of the rugged terrain, the significant changes in elevation, and the highly variable nature of Arctic weather and wilderness travel, this trip is rated strenuous (S). Therefore, participants must be in good physical condition with significant experience backpacking for extended periods in rugged terrain and in adverse weather conditions. Also, stream and river crossings will be necessary, and participants should be prepared to travel with wet feet. Participants should also be comfortable traveling in non-technical mountain terrain.

Equipment and Clothing

Participants should appreciate they will be outside for the entire trip with little opportunity to be sheltered out of the weather except at the end of each day. Because of the changeable weather, participants should be prepared to camp and to be active in rain and other adverse weather.

Proper equipment selection is critical and all equipment should be field tested before trip departure. We especially urge you to bring only high-quality clothing and boots, high-quality lightweight equipment, good binoculars, and as little of everything else as possible.

Participants will need to supply their own tent, backpack, sleeping bag, rain gear, and personal mess kit. In addition to their personal gear, each participant is expected to carry group food and gear, and the weight of your personal gear will need to be limited accordingly. Confirmed participants will receive a detailed equipment list after signup.

Fishing will be variable at this time of year, and grayling and arctic char may be found in some streams and rivers. Fishing licenses are required and may be purchased at sporting goods stores in Fairbanks or from the Department of Revenue, Fish and Game Division, Pouch SA, Juneau AK 99811.

The remoteness of the Refuge requires that we be self-sufficient for the duration of our trip. Leaders will carry a first-aid kit and a satellite phone for communicating with our pilot and for use in medical or other emergencies.

The weather in the Refuge at this time of year is usually mild, with temperatures in the 50s and 60s, but will be colder at higher elevations, and is very changeable at any time and elevation. You should anticipate and be prepared for strong sun, fog, drizzle to heavy rain, strong winds and possibly snow.

References

Maps
USGS quadrangles: 1:250,000 "Demarcation Point".

Books

  • E. C. Pielou, Field Guide to the Arctic. This book won the Western Book Award for Creative Nonfiction in 1995. This is readable natural history and science.
  • Kaye, Roger, The Last Great Wilderness: The Campaign to Establish the Arctic National Wildlife Refuge. Comprehensive history of the effort and political dealings to establish the Refuge
  • Wohlforth, Charles, The Whale and the Supercomputer. A well-researched study of climate change effects in the Alaskan Arctic
  • Miller, Debbie S., Midnight Wilderness-Journeys in Alaska's Arctic National Wildlife Refuge. An excellent compilation of the author's journeys in the Refuge
  • Madsen, Ken. Under the Arctic Sun-Gwich'in, Caribou & the Arctic National Wildlife Refuge.
  • Kantner, Seth, Ordinary Wolves. Recent acclaimed novel about growing up in modern Inupiat culture
  • Bornman, Walter R., Alaska -- Saga of a Bold Land. A well-written comprehensive history of Alaska

Websites

Conservation

The Arctic Refuge is one of the last intact ecological systems in the world, and protecting it is among the highest priorities of nearly every major environmental organization. At this time the Refuge is under considerable political pressure by both resource development advocates and by the effects of climate change. During our trip we will discuss the conservation, economic and other issues affecting exploitation of Alaska's natural resources and of opening the Refuge to energy development, and the effort to designate all of the Refuge as wilderness. We will also discuss the short and long-term effects of climate change that are affecting all areas of the Alaskan Arctic, and especially on the glaciers in our area of travel. Participants will also learn how to keep abreast of developments affecting the Refuge and how to become advocates for its protection.

Travel in Alaska and the Arctic

Sierra Club outings in Alaska are special experiences in true wilderness, but they also carry an element of risk. Trip locales are often remote, away from the amenities of civilization, including sophisticated medical care and immediate evacuation possibilities. Many of our Alaska trips now carry satellite phones, but even with this technology, communication with the outside world can be difficult and emergency assistance can be days away. Weather in Alaska is unpredictable, and inclement weather can be severe. Among other hazards are cold river and stream crossings, tidal activity, calving glaciers, the psychological effects of remoteness, and the presence of large wild animals. You’re in good hands, though, so don't worry: Your trip leaders have vast experience in the Last Frontier, and they’ll provide all the guidance you need.

Trip Price

See the How to Apply for an Outing section for more details on registering for this trip and details about our Reservation and Cancellation Policy.

The payment of a deposit does not confirm you as a member on the trip. Participants must be approved by the trip leader. After signing up for this trip, you will be sent a confirmation packet containing approval materials (Participant Approval Questionnaire, Medical Form, Liability Release Form). Each applicant (including those on the waitlist) must fill out these forms and promptly mail them to the trip leader. The leader will review the approval materials and notify you of your acceptance in a timely manner.

Staff


Leader:

Andrew Ogden Andrew Ogden lives in Boulder, Colorado, the home base from which he pursues his passion for outdoor adventure and travel. Andrew is an experienced backpacker, alpine and backcountry skier, climber, and a veteran of several treks in the Alaska National Wildlife Refuge as well as other parts of Alaska. Andrew enjoys helping others access the Alaskan wilderness, and safely and respectfully travel in backcountry areas. He also uses his political and legal experience to support the efforts of the Sierra Club and other environmental organizations. Andrew hopes that you will contact him with any questions about this trip.

E-mail: aogden@indra.com

Co-Leader:

Jonas Wickham Dodging TV work in Los Angeles Jonas Wickham leads Sierra Club trips in Alaska and the Rocky Mountains. He’s traveled and backpacked on five continents and made a home on three. This will be his fourth trip into this area. He's thrilled to share the sense of discovery and adventure the Arctic Refuge evokes. Jonas welcomes any questions you may have. 

Email: jonaswickham@sbcglobal.net



General Notes About Sierra Club Trips