Photo: Fred Paillet Fall Foliage, Fish and Berries in the Western Brooks Range, Alaska Highlights:
Includes:
Trip Number: 08026A Price: $2,375 Deposit: $200 Capacity: 7 Leader:
The Trip  Photo: Fred Paillet On this 11-day backpacking trip, we will have the opportunity to visit a wild and untrammeled part of the Brooks Range at the peak of the fall foliage season. From a remote landing strip, we will hike in the rugged, scenic Wulik Peaks area, immediately adjacent to the Noatak Preserve. We will see all phases of the Arctic, from lush shrub tundra to wind-blasted mountain crests. In addition, we will be traveling during the height of the season for blueberries, cranberries, and cloudberries.  Photo: Fred Paillet The trip is timed to allow us to witness the tundra at the height of its fall colors. Although not as often mentioned in the travel literature as Alaska’s mountains and wildlife, the autumn tundra spectacle rivals that of Vermont. The low cover of prostrate plants turns an amazing array of colors from pale yellow to brilliant crimson, offset by the colors of the berries that these plants bear. The dwarf birch giving its name to the shrub tundra ecosystem turns a shade of blazing orange that seems so bright it couldn’t possibly be real. Couple these colors with the unique low-angle lighting of the fading arctic sun, and you have a photographer’s dream. The tundra berries will be ready for us when we arrive. The Wulik basin has provided an abundance of blueberries in the past for trips timed a week or two earlier. On this trip we will be late enough to find ripe cranberries (actually a close relative that is equivalent to the Swedish lingonberry) and cloudberries, too. There is hardly a backpacking meal that could not be improved with a side dish of freshly-made cranberry sauce.  Photo: Fred Paillet Another important attraction on this trip is likely to be the fishing. The Wulik River is typical of pristine Brooks Range streams -- its impossibly clear water, tinted slightly blue-green, flows over gravel bars and cascades through rock ledges. These clear streams provide spawning habitat for arctic char, one of Alaska's most prized and best-tasting fish. Arctic grayling, another legendary sport fish, will be there to entertain the fly-fishing enthusiast. There should be plenty of fishing opportunities for those interested, but non-fishers will also find plenty to do -- including savoring the catch.  Photo: Fred Paillet Of course, there is more to Alaskan wildlife than fish and berries! Our entire route lies within the range of the Western Arctic caribou herd -- Alaska's largest herd at nearly 500,000 animals. Late August is at the tail end of the fall migration, but we should see at least some caribou. Other species are abundant, too, including grizzly bear, wolf, Dall Sheep, and moose. We once had a Musk Ox visit our camp on the Wulik, and wolves can sometimes be heard in the evening.
The trip will begin and end in Kotzebue, Alaska, where we'll meet our bush pilot and be shuttled to an improved (by Alaskan standards) gravel strip at the foot of the Wulik Peaks. The upper Wulik forms an ideal round trip based on two main tributaries and a low pass between them. The leaders have extensive hiking experience and our diaries from past trips describe the best campsites, berry patches, and fishing holes along the way. In the past, there were complaints about the fish being too large for our frying pans and the berries being too much of a distraction from the hiking routine. We may not have those problems this year -- but don't count on it! Getting There  Photo: Fred Paillet Trip members are responsible for arranging their own transportation to and from the trip's starting point, arriving in Anchorage at least a day before the start of the trip, and flying to Kotzebue on day one; and departing from Kotzebue the day after the last day of the trip. The leader will provide details on flight options to registered participants. Arctic air travel, commercial or charter, is not always on schedule and luggage is occasionally delayed. It is strongly advised that you allow leeway for delayed luggage due to weather conditions at both the beginning and end of the trip. Roundtrip charter flights between Kotzebue and the Wulik back country are included in the trip fee.
The Sierra Club furnishes stoves, pots, fuel, and first-aid kit. As usual on Sierra Club outings, all members will help with cooking and clean-up. Food while in the field is included in the trip fee. Trip members should notify the leader of any special dietary requirements. Lodging the night before and the night after the trip is not included in the trip price. The leader plans to reserve rooms at an Anchorage bed-and-breakfast for these nights. More details on these arrangements will follow.
The trip will be moderate (M), but due to the highly variable nature of arctic weather and cross-country travel, some backpacking days may be moderately strenuous. In this vast wilderness area, there are no trails except those made by wildlife. Therefore you should be in good physical condition and have backpacking experience. Our route will cover no more than 35-40 miles, which can be hiked in five or six travel days. This will allow several layover days to explore with daypacks. Mainly, we will hike on river bars and tundra. The trip makes a circuit by crossing a low pass (with a total elevation change of less than 1,000 feet) between the two major tributaries of the Wulik headwaters. Stream wading will be necessary; be prepared for the possibility of wet feet on travel days. Elevation changes will be moderate. Each person must carry his or her personal gear (not to exceed 35 pounds) plus about 12-18 pounds of food and community gear.
Summer in the Brooks Range is generally moderate in temperature, although cold, stormy periods can occur. Be prepared to be out and active in the rain. Temperatures can range from the 30s to the 70s, although wind chill can make it feel colder. Proper equipment, thoroughly field-tested before the trip, is critical. Personal gear must not weigh more than 35 pounds, including cameras and other hand-carried items. Participants must provide their own backpack, sleeping bag, tent, rain gear, and other camping necessities. A complete packing list will be sent to registered participants.
Books Some of these titles are out-of-print, but may be available at major libraries. The Title Wave Book Shop, in Anchorage, usually has used copies. Contact the leaders for an additional list of Alaska books related to specific topics of interest such as geology, climate, history, and wildlife.
Maps The entire route of our trip and most of the Wulik River basin can be seen on the U. S. Geological Survey 1:250,000 scale De Long Mountains map. Conservation Alaska is a major conservation battleground. Throughout the state, issues of national significance involving wilderness protection, oil and mineral development, and forest and wildlife management receive high priority from the Sierra Club and other environmental organizations. And well they should -- Alaska's public lands belong to all Americans. One of our objectives is to inform participants of these issues so they'll become advocates for this very special land.Of particular concern to us is the effect of a major mining operation on adjacent
wilderness. In part, we will travel through unprotected lands once intended
for inclusion in the Noatak Preserve, but left out because of their extensive
mineral deposits. The 55-mile haul road for ore concentrate from the Red Dog
Mine is currently a real concern for both native communities and the Park Service.
The haul road now forms the nucleus for further development of additional metal
mines and even coal, and ore dust from the current concentrate hauling has
been leaving a heavy metal residue on the adjacent tundra. We will fly over
the road on our air charter, and may see either the extensive port facilities
for ore handling along the coast, or the mine itself, depending on our route. Travel in Alaska and the Arctic Sierra Club outings in Alaska are special experiences in true wilderness, but they also carry an element of risk. Trip locales are often remote, away from the amenities of civilization, including sophisticated medical care and immediate evacuation possibilities. Many of our Alaska trips now carry satellite phones, but even with this technology, communication with the outside world can be difficult and emergency assistance can be days away. Weather in Alaska is unpredictable, and inclement weather can be severe. Among other hazards are cold river and stream crossings, tidal activity, calving glaciers, the psychological effects of remoteness, and the presence of large wild animals. You’re in good hands, though, so don't worry: Your trip leaders have vast experience in the Last Frontier, and they’ll provide all the guidance you need.
See the How to Apply for an Outing section for more details on registering for this trip and details about our Reservation and Cancellation Policy. The payment of a deposit does not confirm you as a member on the trip. Participants must be approved by the trip leader. After signing up for this trip, you will be sent a confirmation packet containing approval materials (Participant Approval Questionnaire, Medical Form, Liability Release Form). Each applicant (including those on the waitlist) must fill out these forms and promptly mail them to the trip leader. The leader will review the approval materials and notify you of your acceptance in a timely manner.
Leader:
General Notes About Sierra Club Trips
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Dr. Fred Paillet recently retired as a research scientist with the U.S. Geological Survey. A former professor of
geology, Fred has spent more than two decades collecting field data in many
national parks and foreign countries. He has been visiting Alaska since
1988 and has experienced arctic environments in Canada, Sweden, Switzerland,
and Central Asia, as well as numerous locations in the United States. He has been a staff
member on several Sierra Club Alaska outings and is an accomplished artist
and naturalist. Fred loves to capture the emotion and detail of the Arctic landscape in pen and ink drawings produced on the spot -- complete with flattened mosquito carcasses for authenticity.
Hartmut Koelsch is an avid hiker, backpacker, cross-country skier, and mountaineer, and a practicing physician. He has backpacked or dog-mushed or kayaked -- and occasionally all three -- somewhere in Alaska almost every year since 1990. The few years he's missed were only to do similar adventures in Arctic Canada. Hart's unbounded enthusiasm for outdoor adventure is legendary among Sierra Club Outing leaders.