Sierra Club Outings | Rock Art, Rafting and Ruins *Please do NOT change this title

Photo: Linda Conklin

Highlights:

Raft on the San Juan River
Visit remote ancient cliff dwellings
View rarely visited rock art sites

Includes:

All meals
Comprehensive orientation sessions
Local guides

“The American Southwest contains the richest and most accessible collection of archaeological ruins in North America. The arid climate of this vast expanse of mountains, mesas, deserts, and canyons provides an ideal environment for preserving centuries-old pueblos and cliff dwellings, fragile pictographs, and the most delicate of artifacts.”

On this week-long raft and basecamp trip, we will see secluded ruins and rock art sites inaccessible by road. The canyons, mesas, and river drainages of the Southwest have been occupied since 6500 B.C.. The ancient inhabitants, the Anassazi or Ancestral Puebloans, left behind "art" etched in stone (petroglyphs) and painted on stone (pictographs) that will fascinate, puzzle, and inspire us.

We will begin our adventure with a three-day, 26-mile raft trip on the San Juan River. Our float will take us through the heart of the Colorado Plateau, where we will see rock art panels and ruins accessible only by water. The canyon is an outdoor museum of archaeology, geology and natural history. Ruins and petroglyph panels abound while the textbook geology provides for fascinating learning and stunning red rock scenery. Our professional guides specialize in interpreting the river's exquisite culture and textbook geology. We will explore these wonders while enjoying fine meals, camping on the beach, swimming, basking in the red glow of sunsets, and stargazing.

After the river-rafting portion of our trip, we will basecamp in a primitive group campsite, and spend the next two days exploring on foot. We will hike up to seven miles each day to elusive, less visited remains of prehistoric cultures. The scenic views are spectacular as our guide takes us across mesas and down canyons filled with the sites of the Ancestral Puebloan, as well as desert flora and fauna and geological wonders. We will return tired and happy each evening from our day hikes to the luxury of a “safari style” camp.

"Nuances of canyonscape, vestigial Anasazi ruins, all-but-vanished panels of prehistoric rock art, mountain lion tracks, inscriptions scratched by cowboys with bullet lead on sandstone walls a century ago--all these prodigies of the outback Vaughn manages to discover in places where I would have passed them blithely and ignorantly by."

NOTE: This itinerary is subject to change due to river levels, weather conditions, and other circumstances.

Day 1: You should plan to arrive at the lodge in Bluff, Utah by 3 p.m. We will meet at 4 p.m. for getting acquainted and orientation. At 5 p.m., we will share our first meal together at a local restaurant. We will meet at Wild Rivers Expeditions in Bluff at 7 p.m. for a pre-launch orientation. Our river guide will hand out waterproof bags and boxes. That night we will stay at a homey, comfortable lodge in Bluff with an open-air hot tub and pool.

Day 2: After breakfast at the self-serve breakfast bar at the lodge, we will board a Wild Rivers van and drive to the Sand Island Launch ramp four miles west of town. The float begins as the river meanders past orange and black streaked sandstone outcroppings.

Soon the boats will pull into shore and we’ll take a short walk to a site once inhabited by ancient desert farmers, the Anasazi. Large oval steps are carved into the cliff wall and petroglyphs appear around every corner. Down river a short distance, lunch will be served under the cottonwood trees at the famous Butler Wash petroglyph panel, with plenty of time to examine this extensive group of mysterious images.

After more floating, we’ll walk to River House, an 800-year-old cliff dwelling. We can spend time amid the round walls of a kiva where dried corncobs remain with bits of pottery. Exploring the nearby bench lands for more sites and another large kiva can extend this hike.

Camp will be made in the late afternoon on a sandy beach among cottonwoods and giant sagebrush. The guides will prepare a dinner, complete with appetizers and dessert. Sunset and a campfire will follow. Then, it's off to sleep in a tent or out under the stars.

Day 3: First light will find the guides in the kitchen making coffee and fixing breakfast. Gear is repacked, the boats are loaded and, then, the float continues.

The morning stop could include a walk up Chinle Wash, where painted rock art and cliff dwellings hide among the rock alcoves. Author Tony Hillerman calls Chinle Wash "Many Ruins Canyon" in the mystery novel Thief of Time.

For those more interested in geology, there may be a vigorous climb up the Mule's Ear Diatreme for a breathtaking view of the Monument Upwarp where multicolored layers of rock have been tilted and then eroded by wind and water.

History buffs might prefer to look at the remnants of a trading post built in 1883, and then take a hike up San Juan Hill. This steep route was chiseled along a diagonal opening in the cliff by the famous Mormon "Hole-In-The-Rock" expedition in 1880.

At Mile 9 the river enters the "anticline" and the canyon walls rise up dramatically. The river narrows and the pace quickens as small riffles and rapids rock the boats.

Camp is made deep within the canyon where the limestone walls are full of fossils and a lively current murmurs against the rocks.

Day 4: There will be time after breakfast for viewing fossils. An undulating pattern to the rocks reveals the presence of "biohurms." Porous mounds in an ancient shallow sea, they act as a reservoir rock to capture oil.

The trip continues with more floating and fun rapids. Desert bighorn sheep may appear along this stretch. The rocks tilt and canyon walls diminish as Mexican Hat Rock comes into view, a large red slab balanced on a small pedestal. We'll see the vivid reds and grays of the anticline zigzag across the eastern horizon -- a Navajo blanket of stone.

The journey ends at 2 or 3 p.m. at the boat launch in the town of Mexican Hat, where Wild River's vans will transport us back to Bluff. We’ll have some time in town to take showers, etc. before we drive to our primitive campsite for dinner.

Days 5 and 6: On the last part of the trip, we’ll be guided on hikes by Vaughn Hadenfeldt, owner of Far Out Expeditions. He will showcase the archaeology that abounds in the area around Bluff, Utah. We will encounter rarely visited rock art and ruin sites that tell the story of the ancient cultures that lived in this region. Vaughn shares his passion for the relics of the past with enthusiasm and understanding. We will experience exciting prehistoric sites, fascinating interpretation and information, exhilarating backcountry travel, good food, and the scenic splendor that is the Four Corner’s desert.

Day 7: After breakfast, we will break camp and visit either the Sand Island Petroglyph Panel or the Edge of the Cedars State Park Museum. The Sand Island Panel is a half-mile long stretch of rock with several hundred individual petroglyphs in various scenes.

The Edge of the Cedars Museum is the regional archaeological repository for southeast Utah. Here we can see the remains of the Ancestral Pueblo Indian Village with its unique architectural structures. The museum also houses an excellent collection of Anasazi pottery and other exceptional ancient Indian artifacts.

The starting point for this trip is Bluff, Utah. Travel to the starting point is the responsibility of trip participants and is not covered in the trip price. The closest location for commercial air service is Grand Junction, Colorado, which is about 200 miles from Bluff. The closest large airports are in Albuquerque, New Mexico (315 miles), Salt Lake City, Utah (350 miles), and Phoenix, Arizona (370 miles). The leader will assist in coordinating rides for those who are interested. Participants often choose to share rides with each other.

On our first night we will sleep in a comfortable lodge in Bluff, Utah. On the river segment of the trip we will sleep by the river -- participants must supply their own tents, sleeping bags, and pads. During the second half of the trip we will camp at a primitive campsite on land administered by the Bureau of Land Management.

The first meal of this trip is dinner in Bluff on day one. The food will be tasty and plentiful. Accommodations will be made for vegetarians. The last meal will be breakfast on day seven.

This trip is rated Moderate (M). We will hike up to seven miles per day at a slow to moderate pace, stopping to view rock art sites and ruins. Most hikes on this trip will be easy to moderate. Some of the hikes may require scrambling on uneven terrain with loose gravel and scree. River hikes will be shorter and easier than hikes with Vaughn, although some steep slopes will be encountered.

Participants must bring their own tents, sleeping bags, and pads. Binoculars and cameras are recommended. A more complete packing list will be sent to registered participants.

For the greatest detail, consider United States Geological Survey 7.5-minute topographical maps. These maps may be ordered online at http://store.usgs.gov.

The Southwest's archaeological future remains uncertain in the face of increasing demand for natural resources such as minerals, oil, gas, uranium, and coal. The processes involved in their extraction interfere with the preservation of the region's fragile environment and cultural heritage. Off-road vehicles are creating new roads and crushing desert vegetation. Pot hunting, as long as it is immensely profitable to unscrupulous entrepreneurs, causes massive destruction to ancient ruins.

The payment of a deposit does not confirm you as a member on the trip. Participants must be approved by the trip leader. After signing up for this trip, you will be sent a confirmation packet containing approval materials (Participant Approval Questionnaire, Medical Form, Liability Release Form). Each applicant (including those on the waitlist) must fill out these forms and promptly mail them to the trip leader. The leader will review the approval materials and notify you of your acceptance in a timely manner.

Linda Conklin recently retired from 30 years of teaching special education in the foothills of the Sierra near Yosemite. She and her family have spent many years camping, hiking, swimming in mountain lakes, and river rafting. In the past, she has led local Sierra Club outings, and has been involved in environmental politics. Now, her interest is to share her love of the earth and her outdoor experience with others. She has enjoyed leading family trips, lodge trips, and backpack trips, and looks forward to leading many more.

E-mail: lindac@mlode.com

Jay Willian (pictured at the top of the brochure) has been guiding at Wild Rivers for nearly a decade. His interests include rock art, natural history and the San Juan's lower canyon in general. His meticulous observational skills and trip leadership have yielded the fondest affection from hundreds of river goers. Originally from Chicago, when not on the river Jay works both as a backpacking guide for Far Out Expeditions in Bluff and as a field archaeologist. Jay has an M.S. in botany and should, though doesn't, have an honorary PhD in river expedition systems theory. Jay's secret fun fact is that he shares a birthday with the founding of Bluff City.

Vaughn Hadenfeldt, the owner and guide of FOE, has been guiding throughout the region for over 25 years and shares his passion for the relics of the past with enthusiasm and understanding. Vaughn�s excellent reputation and his expertise as a guide have been featured in books, magazine articles and television programs. He has done archaeological research with several archaeological organizations such as the University of Colorado Archaeological Field School, BLM/Earthwatch Rock Art Documentation Project, and the Wetherill Grand Gulch Project.