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Photo: Jonas Wickham
Highlights:
- Observe caribou and other wildlife
- Stand on the edge of the Arctic Ocean
- Experience the 24-hour sunlight of the Arctic spring
- Explore a seldom-visited part of the Arctic National Wildlife Refuge
Includes:
- All flights to and from the Arctic Refuge
- All meals and cooking gear
- All permits and entrance fees
- Small Group Size
Trip Number: 09010A
Price: $4795
Deposit: $200
Capacity: 4
Leader: Jonas Wickham
The Trip
Photo: Jonas Wickham
In the Land of the Midnight Sun, the tundra north of the Arctic Circle is bathed in 24-hour daylight as winter gives way to spring and then summer. Visitors to the Arctic National Wildlife Refuge during this time have the opportunity to see wild rivers rushing with snowmelt, ranging predators, migrating birds, prolific wildflowers, and, with luck, the annual migration of the Porcupine caribou herd as it returns from eastern Canada to its ancestral calving grounds in the Refuge.
Photo: Jonas Wickham
This is the first time the Sierra Club has offered a trip to this remote location. Our route is designed to explore a seldom-visited area of the Arctic National Wildlife Refuge in the foothills of the Brooks Range, east of the Kongakut River and to offer what may become an increasingly rare opportunity to stand on the edge of the Arctic Ocean while ice still hugs the shore. It is timed to hopefully coincide with the Porcupine Caribou migration through the area. Our small group will likely be the only people you see during the whole time in the Arctic Refuge.
Although our trip is rated moderate, some days may be strenuous, as we will traverse mountain passes, cross rushing rivers and travel over uneven terrain.
In addition to having the personal experience of a lifetime, we will also explore the conservation, economic and other issues affecting exploitation of Alaska's natural resources in general and of the Arctic Refuge in particular. By visiting the refuge, participants will come to appreciate more fully this vast, remote, wild and intimidating place and gain a deeper understanding of its unique status as the most significant wilderness area remaining in the United States.
Photo: Jonas Wickham
Our trip and route are timed to coincide with the change of the seasons and the annual migration of the Porcupine caribou herd from western Canada to the arctic plain. Depending on the timing of the migration and other contingencies, including weather, we may modify our plans, so a flexible attitude will be essential.
From Fairbanks we will fly north via a scheduled regional airline flight to the Gwich'in settlement of Arctic Village. From there we will shuttle via bush plane in a spectacular flight over the Brooks Range to a remote tundra strip, close to the Canadian border, where we will begin our trek in the Arctic National Wildlife Refuge.
Photo: Jonas Wickham
After spending the first night near the strip, our planned route takes us north, climbing over a mountain pass, to where we will camp at the highest point in our trip.
Following caribou trails with the towering Davidson Mountains behind us our
trek will lead us gradually further north towards the Coastal Plain and Arctic
Ocean. Moving quietly through this remote terrain our small group will be able
to become a part of the landscape, observing Caribou and other wildlife as
we go.
Swinging towards the west or route will take us down a long canyon its steeply rising walls eventually spilling us out to the mighty Kongakut River valley. With the Kongakut by our side we will again head northwards passing a succession of smaller rivers and streams, eventually reaching and crossing over Caribou Pass, through which thousands of migrating caribou travel every year on their own journey to the arctic plain. The final leg of our voyage takes us out over the plain to our pick-up location at the edge of the Arctic Ocean.
Getting There
We will meet you in Fairbanks, where we will all stay in a 'downtown' B&B,
where group gear and food will be divided (Note: this is not included in the
trip price). It is recommended that you arrive at least a day, and preferably
two days, before the trip to allow time for delayed gear to arrive. Your departure
should be scheduled at least a full day after our planned return to Fairbanks
in case poor weather or other delays.
Photo: Jonas Wickham
All meals and snacks are provided for the duration of the trip. Participants are responsible for notifying the trip leader of any special dietary requirements. The Sierra Club will furnish stoves, pots, cooking gear, and fuel. All meals will be prepared and eaten as a group, and everybody will be expected to take turns preparing meals and cleaning up.
Few people travel to this remote part of the Arctic and we will be hiking in a vast and rugged wilderness area with no trails except those made by wildlife. Because of the relatively modest mileage and elevation gains, the trip is rated moderate overall. However, due to the highly variable nature of Arctic weather and wilderness travel, some backpacking days will be strenuous. Therefore, participants should be in good physical condition and have experience backpacking over rough terrain, for extended periods and in adverse weather.
Our route will cover approximately 65 miles and should be managed fairly easily
in our planned number of travel days as our altitude will be moderate and we
loose elevation throughout the journey. Hiking will be mainly on gravel bars
and tundra, with two moderate mountain passes. Stream crossings will be necessary,
and participants should be prepared for the possibility of wet feet on our travel
days.
Photo: Jonas Wickham
Participants should appreciate we will be outside for the entire trip with little opportunity to get out of the weather except in our tents at the end of each day. Because of the changeable weather, participants should be prepared to camp and to be out and active in rain and other adverse weather.
Proper equipment selection is critical and all equipment should be thoroughly field tested before trip departure. We especially urge you to bring only high-quality clothing and boots, high-quality lightweight equipment, good binoculars, and as little of everything else as possible.
Photo: Jonas Wickham
Participants will need to supply their own tent, backpack, sleeping bag, rain gear, and mess kit, which will be inspected prior to departure to ensure your safety and comfort. In addition to all of their own gear, each participant is expected to carry approximately 17 pounds of group food and gear, so please limit the weight of your personal gear accordingly. Confirmed participants will receive a detailed equipment list.
Fishing is usually not very good at this time of year, although grayling and
arctic char may be found in some streams. Fishing licenses are required and
may be purchased at sporting goods stores in Fairbanks or from the Department
of Revenue, Fish and Game Division, Pouch SA, Juneau AK, 99811.
The remoteness of the Refuge requires that we be self-sufficient for the duration of our trip. The Leaders will carry a first-aid kit and a satellite phone for use in medical or other emergencies.
The weather in the Refuge at this time of year is usually mild, with temperatures in the 50s and 60s, but can change quickly and be colder or warmer. Wind-chill can be a major factor and you should anticipate and be prepared for strong sun, fog, drizzle, heavy rain, strong winds and possibly snow.
Maps
USGS quadrangles, 'Table Mountain' and ‘Demarcation Point' -1:250,000 and "Demarcation Point A-1, B-1, B-2 and C-1" - 1:63,360.
Books
- Field Guide to the Arctic, E. C. Pielou. ( University of Chicago
Press). This book won the Western Book Award for Creative Nonfiction in
1995. This is readable natural history and science.
- The Last Great Wilderness:
The Campaign to Establish the Arctic National
Wildlife Refuge, Roger Kaye ( University of Alaska Press 2006). History
of the effort and political dealings to establish the Refuge.
- Midnight Wilderness-Journeys
in Alaska 's Arctic National Wildlife Refuge, Debbie S. Miller (Alaska
Northwest Books 1990 and 2000). An excellent compilation of the author's
journeys in the Refuge.
- Under the Arctic Sun-Gwich'in, Caribou and; the
Arctic National Wildlife Refuge, Ken Madsen (Earthtales Press 2002).
- Ordinary
Wolves, Seth Kantner. Recent novel about growing up in modern Inupiat
culture.
- Earth and the Great Weather, Kenneth Brower. A rich resource
on the Brooks Range.
- Vanishing Arctic, T. H. Watkins. A comprehensive study of the Refuge and
its future.
Websites
Conservation
The Arctic Refuge is one of the last intact ecological systems in the world and is under considerable political pressure for development. To date, efforts to designate the refuge as wilderness have been rejected outright and there is an ongoing effort to open the refuge to energy development. Protecting this unique ecosystem is among the highest priorities of nearly every major environmental organization. Trip members will be educated about current developments, how to keep informed of future developments, and to become advocates for protection of this important area.
Travel in Alaska and the Arctic
Sierra Club outings in Alaska are special experiences in true wilderness, but they also carry an element of risk. Trip locales are often remote, away from the amenities of civilization, including sophisticated medical care and immediate evacuation possibilities. Many of our Alaska trips now carry satellite phones, but even with this technology, communication with the outside world can be difficult and emergency assistance can be days away. Weather in Alaska is unpredictable, and inclement weather can be severe. Among other hazards are cold river and stream crossings, tidal activity, calving glaciers, the psychological effects of remoteness, and the presence of large wild animals. You’re in good hands, though, so don't worry: Your trip leaders have vast experience in the Last Frontier, and they’ll provide all the guidance you need.
See the How to Apply for an Outing section for more details on registering for this trip and details
about our Reservation and Cancellation Policy.
The payment of a deposit does not confirm you as a member on the trip. Participants must be approved by the trip leader. After signing up for this trip, you will be sent a confirmation packet containing approval materials (Participant Approval Questionnaire, Medical Form, Liability Release Form). Each applicant (including those on the waitlist) must fill out these forms and promptly mail them to the trip leader. The leader will review the approval materials and notify you of your acceptance in a timely manner.
Dodging TV editing work in Los Angeles, Jonas Wickham leads Sierra Club trips in Alaska and the Rocky Mountains. He’s traveled and backpacked on five continents and made a home on three. He's thrilled to share the sense of discovery and adventure these wild places evoke. This will be his sixth trip into this area. Jonas welcomes any questions you may have. Email: jonaswickham@sbcglobal.net
Andrew Ogden lives in Boulder, Colorado, the home base from which
he pursues his passion for outdoor adventure and travel. Andrew
is an experienced backpacker, alpine and backcountry skier, climber,
and a veteran of several treks in the Alaska National Wildlife
Refuge as well as other parts of Alaska. Andrew enjoys helping
others access the Alaskan wilderness, and safely and respectfully
travel in backcountry areas. He also uses his political and legal
experience to support the efforts of the Sierra Club and other
environmental organizations. Andrew hopes that you will contact
him with any questions about this trip.
E-mail: aogden@indra.com
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