Sierra Club Outings | Rafting the Tatshenshini-Alsek through British Columbia, the Yukon, and Alaska

Rafting the Tatshenshini-Alsek through British Columbia, the Yukon, and Alaska
July 3-July 12, 2009

Highlights:

Raft one of the world's most scenic rivers
Explore gigantic glaciers and hike in pristine wilderness
See wildlife including moose, bears, eagles, and sheep

Includes:

First night in an historic hotel in Haines , Alaska
Hearty meals
Tents, waterproof bags, rubber boots, sleeping pad, lifejacket
Rafts and professional guides
Charter plane flight return to Yakutat

We rowed up its fjord and landed to make a slight examination of its frontal wall. The berg-producing portion, a mile and a half wide, was broken into an imposing array of jagged spires and pyramids, and flat-topped towers and battlements, many of shades of blue from pale, shimmering, limpid tones in the crevasses and hollows to the most startling, chilling, almost shrieking vitriol blue on the plain mural spaces... It seemed inconceivable that nature could have anything finer.

British Columbia's Tatshenshini-Alsek Wilderness Park and Alaska's Glacier Bay National Park and Preserve represent the sub-Arctic Pacific Northwest at its finest. Along with neighboring Wrangell-St. Elias and Kluane parks, these two parks form a UNESCO World Heritage site that, with almost 38,000 square miles, is the largest protected wilderness ecosystem on earth. This is a place truly unspoiled by humankind's heavy hand. The Tatshenshini River is known for its spectacular scenery and wildlife, and many seasoned river-runners consider this to be one of the world's premier raft trips -- if you can take only one expedition to Alaska in a lifetime, this is it.

From its headwaters in Canada's Yukon Territory, the Tatshenshini River flows 160 miles through British Columbia's highest mountain range, to its confluence with the Alsek River, which eventually enters the Pacific Ocean at Dry Bay on the Gulf of Alaska. The waters of the Tatshenshini flow slate-gray with the silted meltwaters of the surrounding glaciers and snowfields. Numerous side streams add to the flow until the braided "Tat" becomes a mile wide. In all of North America, only the Columbia River delivers more water to the Pacific Ocean.

Here the air is crisp and clean, and the sky -- when it is clear -- is a brilliant blue. Wildflowers line the riverbanks, and the valleys are verdant green against a backdrop of rugged gray peaks cloaked in ice and snow. Icebergs the size of ships can be seen and heard breaking off glacial faces. Wildlife will be plentiful on this Alaskan adventure. Eagles soar overhead while shore birds scurry along the water's edge. We will have an excellent chance of seeing bear, beaver, mink, moose, red fox, mountain goats, Dall sheep, and the occasional wolf, wolverine, or lynx. As we hike and float through this beauty, there'll be plenty of time for photography, drawing, or just relaxing and enjoying the views, the silence, and the solitude.

Most Alaskan adventures -- especially those that include backpacking -- require considerable experience, equipment, physical stamina, time, planning, and effort. Rafting, however, is perhaps the least strenuous -- some would say the "safest and most comfortable" -- way to gain access to the true Alaskan wilds. Ten days exploring this region and floating the Tatshenshini and Alsek rivers is the perfect "Introduction to Alaska" for wilderness lovers.

This trip begins in Haines, Alaska, and ends in Yakutat, Alaska. You are responsible for securing transportation to Haines and from Yakutat. All other transportation is provided, and included in the trip price. The trip involves crossing into Canada, which requires appropriate documents (see below).

Haines is the type of town many people picture when they imagine Alaska . Nestled in the upper reaches of the Lynn Canal, with the Chilkat River Valley behind it, Haines is home to the world-famous Bald Eagle Preserve. The Chilkat Mountain Range rises behind the river, providing a dramatic backdrop to the picturesque town, with restored Fort Seward buildings decorating the hillside in the foreground. Try to arrive in Haines a day or two early; there is much to see and explore.

Day 1: You should plan to arrive in Haines by 3 p.m. on July 3. A double-occupancy room at the Hotel Halsingland will be waiting for you. There will be a mandatory orientation meeting at the hotel (the exact time to be given in future correspondence), at which you will receive your waterproof bags, have your personal equipment checked, ask any last-minute questions, and receive information about the next morning's departure. No meals will be provided on July 3. After the meeting you will have time to pack your waterproof bag. Tents need not be packed in your bag; they will be stored separately. Your leader will cover the details of packing your gear, vehicle and luggage storage arrangements, and any other questions at the orientation meeting.

Day 2: We will depart early for the put-in at Dalton Post, Yukon Territory -- 110 scenic miles from Haines. The highway to the put-in passes through the Bald Eagle Preserve before climbing out of the coastal valley, entering Canada, and climbing into the alpine region of Chilkat Pass. Wildflowers, jagged mountain peaks, and hanging glaciers set the scene here. Once we reach the put-in, the guides will load the rafts, explain the "rules of the river" and "bear etiquette," and we'll be underway!

Day 3-9: The first section of the river takes us through Tatshenshini Gorge. After six miles of Class III rapids, the land opens up and flattens out. The remainder of the river is generally Class II at normal water levels. We soon enter the Tatshenshini-Alsek Wilderness Park where, over the next several days, we will wind our way towards the beautiful Alsek and Noisy ranges. Thickly forested valleys provide the perfect habitat for a large population of moose. Soon the river reaches the Alsek Mountains, a towering range of ice-capped peaks that turns the river south. Here the river once again picks up speed. There are many good short hikes in this area. Conditions permitting, we will hike up Goats Knob for spectacular views of the surrounding mountains. This is prime wildlife habitat: The beaches are often marked by the tracks of moose, bears, and wolves, and occasionally we may catch glimpses of the animals themselves.

As the river braids out into an ever-widening valley, tributaries pour in, doubling the river's volume time and again as it cuts deeper into the mountain ranges. The broad, open deltas of the tributaries provide excellent opportunities to spot wildlife. High on the slopes above, beautiful white mountain goats and Dall sheep graze on the grassy knolls and rugged crags. As we float downstream, the mountains grow taller, and the glaciers become larger and more numerous. The confluence of the Tatshenshini and Alsek rivers is an awe-inspiring place: Here, four major valleys converge, and the river becomes a giant rolling highway, braiding out across a wide valley. Our camp here will be near the Alaskan border, where we will enter Glacier Bay National Park.

As we head further downstream, the Alsek rounds a blind corner and reveals the massive Walker Glacier. This breathtaking glacier tumbles down, crystal-blue, to the river's edge. We will spend an afternoon exploring the glacier, making our way up to the first of its icefalls. Only by wandering onto the glaciers will we be able to truly appreciate how huge, powerful, and alive they really are.

Back on the river again, we'll count more than 20 glaciers in a spectacular panorama, where the river quickly moves away from the Walker, and the surrounding high peaks rise steeply from the banks to their heavily glaciated summits. This is literally "Ice Age country," with dozens of large and small glaciers filling every vista around our rafts. We'll pass the immense Novatak Glacier and float towards Alsek Bay. Here we should see many species of birds, including bald eagles, semi-palmated plovers, spotted sandpipers, northern phalaropes, water pipits, and Canada geese.

Near the end of the trip, we'll reach Alsek Bay (or "Alsek Lake"), where the Alsek and Grand Plateau glaciers join at the river to form an eight-mile-wide ice face, arching around the beautiful lake and filling it with icebergs. Thunder rumbles across the lake at regular intervals as the glacier spawns another berg. This scene is just the foreground, though, to one of the world's most beautiful and stunning backdrops: the massive rise of 15,300-foot, ice-clad Mt. Fairweather. Weather permitting, we will spend a day rowing out onto the lake for a closer look at the glaciers and massive icebergs.

Our last camp on Alsek Lake will be the most spectacular yet. Here you will learn the meaning of the phrase "scenic overload."

Day 10: We will leave Alsek Bay for the final 15-mile leg of our float trip to Dry Bay, a small collection of buildings on the coast and the hub of a busy fishing industry. Here we will board small charter planes (flights included in trip price) for the trip to Yakutat, where we will connect with Alaska Airlines for the flight to Juneau (arriving around 7:30 p.m. ). The flight to Juneau is not included in the trip price. The last meal of the trip will be lunch.

There are three ways to reach Haines: fly, take the ferry, or drive. Most trip members choose to fly in and out of Juneau, Alaska. Alaska Airlines (www.alaskaair.com) flies into Juneau , where you can connect with one of several commuter services that fly the 75 miles north to Haines. Try Haines Airways, at (907) 766-2646, L.A.B. Flying Service, at (907) 766-2222, or Wings of Alaska, at (907) 766-2030. Most commuter services will provide a complementary shuttle to your hotel (check when making your reservations). The Alaska Marine Highway System has regular ferry service to Haines from Juneau, Bellingham, Washington, or Prince Rupert, British Columbia. For schedule information, check http://www.dot.state.ak.us/amhs/ or call (800) 642-0066. You can also drive to Haines via the Alaska Highway, which is a very long trip from the lower 48. For additional information regarding Haines, visit http://www.haines.ak.us or call the Haines Visitors Center, at (907) 766-2234 or (800) 458-3579.

Alaska Airlines currently has one flight a day from Yakutat to Juneau, leaving around dinnertime. You will need to make reservations ahead of time for this flight on the last day of the trip. All flights are subject to weather delays, in which case you may be delayed in Dry Bay or Yakutat for the night. Most airlines will be accommodating in these situations, but it is wise to discuss this possibility when scheduling your travel arrangements. Do not schedule your arrival and departure dates too tightly; allow some flexibility for canceled flights and other delays.

Accommodations (double occupancy) will be reserved for you for the first night at the historic Hotel Halsingland in Haines. You will need to make your own reservations for lodging in Juneau at the end of the trip. The leader can provide a list of recommended hotels in Juneau.

Most of the hotels have a shuttle service available, outside and to the right of the baggage claim. Express and Driftwood Shuttle also provide transportation to local hotels for about $6. The Bed & Breakfast Association of Alaska at http://www.accommodations-alaska.com books more than 25 B&Bs in Juneau and Haines; they are also very helpful with ferry and flight reservations.

During the trip, tent space is limited to minimize impact. Therefore we provide "double-occupancy" tents. If you must have your own private space, individual tents can be rented at an extra charge.

All meals are included in the price. Our staff will supply and prepare all of the food and eating utensils. You may assist in the preparation of meals or just sit back, relax, and wait to be fed. If you have a special dietary need, please inform the trip leader upon enrollment. It may not be possible to meet all special dietary requests, but the sooner the request is received, the better the chance. Members with special needs should expect to assist the crew in meal preparation, if necessary.

The river provides plenty of highs and excitement. For your safety and the safety and the enjoyment of others, no drinking is allowed during the day or while on the river. You may bring your favorite beverages in plastic bottles or cans (no glass) for camp use. Remember, alcohol accentuates the cold, speeds hypothermia, and contributes to dehydration.

This is a trip of intermediate difficulty. On the international whitewater scale of I (easy) to VI (unrunnable), the rapids in Tatshenshini Gorge are rated Class IV in high water and Class III at normal flows. It is not the rapids that make the "Tat" a trip of intermediate difficulty, but the weather. Coastal Alaska's climate is generally cold and wet. This is an area famous for record levels of precipitation. Indeed, the high mountains here get 60 feet of winter snow, producing some of the largest glaciers in the world outside of the polar regions.

When it rains, it can be very wet and cold. We may encounter thick fog as well. You must expect the weather to have a strong influence on the itinerary and overall difficulty of the trip. It is normal, however, to have some days of glorious sunshine. The temperatures may reach the 70s, but generally the need is to keep warm and dry. For this reason, previous wilderness camping experience is a must for participation on this trip.

Although we make every effort to ensure a safe trip and have an excellent safety record, whitewater boating, hiking, and wilderness travel do involve some risks. Physical challenges and risks are inherent in rafting and are often the reason people seek this kind of adventure. If you elect to participate, you must be in good health and willing to assist with camp chores such as loading and unloading duffel and community equipment on and off the rafts, and in carrying it to and from the campsites. Each person must be able to take care of his or her personal needs and attend to his or her own campsite. Strict adherence to "bear etiquette" is necessary to help us maintain the excellent safety record of previous trips on this river.

On-shore exploration ranges from easy walks to more difficult hikes requiring some scrambling ability. Glacier walks can be dangerous. Although all hikes are optional, good physical conditioning is important in any wilderness outing. We strongly recommend that you engage in a program of regular exercise prior to the trip. This trip should be considered an "active" vacation, as you will be packing and unpacking your gear, setting up your tent, and participating in side hikes. These activities, taken together in a wilderness environment, are physically demanding if you are not in shape. The trip leader is responsible for screening participants for their suitability for the trip.

The pace of the trip will be leisurely, allowing time for hiking, photography, and exploration. It is a great trip for both new and experienced rafters alike. Minimum age for this trip is 12 (18 if unaccompanied by an adult).

We will use 16- or 18-foot, oar-powered rafts, each controlled by an experienced, licensed river guide. The Sierra Club opposes the use of motorcraft in wilderness areas, and our rafts are free of the engine noise and exhaust fumes found on some commercial river trips. If you wish to do some rowing yourself, ask your boatman if you can try your hand at the oars during a calm spot on the river. Our boats are not "paddle rafts," so trip members will not be paddling the boats.

We will supply two large waterproof "drybags," an ammo can (your day bag), a sturdy tent (double occupancy), a sleeping pad, rubber boots and gloves, lifejacket, a mug, plate, and eating utensils for each trip member, and a river guide. A detailed equipment list will be sent to you upon acceptance on the trip.

The weather can be very volatile in this area, so the key to enjoying yourself is to be properly dressed. This involves the layering method that allows you to add or subtract layers as the weather changes. It can be very wet at times, so you must have clothes that keep you warm even if you're not dry. Therefore, you need to have wool, fleece, synchilla, or polypropylene clothing; cotton is not sufficient and must be avoided. Likewise, your sleeping bag must be synthetic; a down-filled bag is worthless when wet.

Do not bring cell phones, laptop computers, or music systems. Likewise, leave the worries of your overstressed life at the office!

Leave unnecessary valuables at home. For those essential valuables (wallet, credit cards, passport, and plane tickets), double-bag them in Ziploc-type bags and store them in the bottom of the waterproof bag containing your clothing. Handle film and medications in a similar fashion. There is no storage for valuables provided in Haines.

Luggage storage facilities have been arranged for in Haines. Your luggage to-be-stored must be brought to the meeting place the morning of departure. Car storage is provided free at our orientation meeting place. If you are flying from Yakutat to Juneau on the last day of the trip, we will arrange for your left-luggage to be forwarded to Juneau , for you to pick up there.

While there are plenty of salmon in the river, the river is silty and the fish don't feed once they leave the ocean, so the fishing is not good. Therefore, leave your fishing gear at home.

You will need a passport for travel to Canada. A driver's license or birth certificate alone is no longer adequate. Non-U.S. citizens must have a re-entry visa for the U.S. and Canadian visas where applicable.

To fully enjoy the trip, you will want to read one or more books on the natural and human history of the Tatshenshini-Alsek region, and on conservation and Alaska , before we depart. This outing is unique in many ways and it would be a shame not to come intellectually well-prepared. Even a rudimentary grasp of the region's natural and human history will greatly enhance your experience.

One of the greatest conservation battles and victories of the late-20th century was played out in the wilderness through which we will travel. This struggle has much to teach us, and we will take the time while on the river to discuss it further.

The battle began when a Canadian mining company wanted to develop a huge copper mining operation on Windy Craggy Mountain, in the Tatshenshini watershed. Environmentalists opposed the proposal because the copper ore at Windy Craggy has a particularly high concentration of sulfur which, when exposed to air, oxidizes to form sulphuric acid. Environmentalists worried that the proposed storage methods -- tailings pools behind dams -- were inadequate to protect the Tatshenshini watershed, especially because the area is prone to large earthquakes. Moreover, the service roads would have run dangerously close to the Tatshenshini River.

In addition to potentially polluting the Tatshenshini and Alsek rivers, toxic fallout from the mine would have destroyed the habitat of one of the largest concentrations of grizzly bears in Canada. The winter range of the Dall sheep and the habitats of mountain goats and wolves also would have been damaged. The mine would have harmed the salmon in the two rivers.

In 1993, showing the courage and leadership so often lacking in the U.S., the Canadian government not only denied the mine proposal but declared the entire Tatshenshini-Alsek region in northwest British Columbia a Class A wilderness, to be permanently protected and managed as wilderness. The area, the Tatshenshini-Alsek Wilderness Provincial Park, is 2.5 million acres in size -- twice that of the Grand Canyon. The park, which abuts the Wrangell-St. Elias National Preserve and Glacier Bay National Park in Alaska and the Kluane National Park in the Yukon Territory, is now part of a new 24.3-million acre "St. Elias-Tatshenshini World Wilderness Reserve," the largest in the world.

Something will have gone out of us as a people if we ever let the remaining wilderness be destroyed; if we permit the last virgin forests to be turned into comic books and plastic cigarette cases; if we drive the few remaining members of the wild species into zoos or to extinction; if we pollute the last clear air and dirty the last clean streams and push our paved roads through the last of the silence, so that never again will Americans be free in their own country from the noise, the exhaust fumes, the stinks of human and automotive waste.

Sierra Club outings in Alaska and Arctic Canada are special experiences in true wilderness, but they also carry an element of risk. Trip locales are often remote, away from the amenities of civilization, including sophisticated medical care and immediate evacuation possibilities. Many of our Alaska and Arctic Canada trips now carry satellite phones, but even with this technology, communication with the outside world can be difficult and emergency assistance can be days away. Weather in Alaska and Arctic Canada is unpredictable, and inclement weather can be severe. Among other hazards are cold river and stream crossings, tidal activity, calving glaciers, the psychological effects of remoteness, and the presence of large wild animals. You're in good hands, though, so don't worry: Your trip leaders have vast experience in the Last Frontier, and they'll provide all the guidance you need.

The payment of a deposit does not confirm you as a member on the trip. Participants must be approved by the trip leader. After signing up for this trip, you will be sent a confirmation packet containing approval materials (Participant Approval Questionnaire, Medical Form, Liability Release Form). Each applicant (including those on the waitlist) must fill out these forms and promptly mail them to the trip leader. The leader will review the approval materials and notify you of your acceptance in a timely manner.

Dan Leighton has lead numerous Sierra Club water trips and run many rivers on the west and east coasts. He's also traveled extensively to wilderness areas throughout the west. With a background in environmental engineering and water resources, he brings an in-depth perspective on western water, conservation, and environmental issues to every trip. Daniel looks forward to introducing everyone to this unique area and leading you on this spectacular journey.