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Photo: Fred Paillet
Highlights:
- Hike a classic Alaskan wilderness trail
- Experience habitats ranging from coastal rain forest to alpine tundra
- Observe sockeye and pink salmon on their spawning beds
- Enjoy a day-long wildlife cruise in Kenai Fjords National Park
Includes:
- Round trip van charter from downtown Anchorage
- Hearty backpacking meals and snacks
- Group cooking gear and cooking shelter
- Three nights and meals at a rustic coastal lodge
- Wildlife cruise operated by Kenai Fjords Tours
Trip Number: 09021A
Price: $1895
Deposit: $200
Capacity: 10
Leader: Frederick Paillet
The Trip
Photo: Fred Paillet
On this trip we will visit some of the wildest country within an
easy drive of Anchorage. . We hike the Johnson Pass trail through
the heart of the Kenai Wilderness in the Chugach National Forest.
Our trail passes from lush coastal rain forest through flower-studded
alpine meadows to true alpine tundra, allowing us to sample each of
the natural habitats found in southeastern Alaska. After a week on
the trail, we'll relax for three nights at a lodge in Seward, where
we are booked on a day-long wildlife cruise in Resurrection Bay, visiting
sea-lion rookeries, calving glaciers and much more. An extra day is
allowed for those who want to sample other activities on their own,
and serves as a back-up in the event that rough ocean weather forces
the cancellation of our original cruise day.
The trip is timed to coincide with the salmon runs in Kenai streams,
and we expect to salmon on their spawning beds somewhere in our travels.
Moose, bear, mountain goats, dall sheep, and marmots are likely to be
seen along the route. Salmon berries and blueberries should be coming
into their prime. Dolly varden, arctic grayling and rainbow trout can
be caught in the streams and lakes along our route. Eagles, sea otters,
puffins, murres, orcas, and sea lions are routinely spotted on our cruise.
This is an opportunity to sample a little of everything that southeastern
Alaska has to offer!
Photo: Fred Paillet
The trip will begin and end in Anchorage, Alaska, where we will be
shuttled by van service to the trailhead, and picked up for our return
at our lodge in Seward. Van service will also shuttle us from the
end of the trail to our lodge in walking distance of the shore and
the center of town. We will take eight days to backpack the approximately
25 miles from the trailhead near Portage Glacier to the pick up near
Trail Lake. This allows for one or two side excursions into secondary
side valleys to find complete solitude, and making our total backpacking
distance about 35 miles.
At the end of the hike, we meet a shuttle service taking us to our lodge
in Seward. The following day we are booked for an 8-hour cruise in a
small touring boat that allows close-in viewing of wildlife and glaciers.
The cruise includes dinner on an island before we are returned for the
night at our lodge. A second day is reserved for optional activities
such as sea kayaking or halibut fishing. For those not interested in
such activities or worried about the extra expense, the leaders will
organize a hike at the Exit Glacier visitor's center in the National
Park. A rugged trail with several thousand feet of elevation gain allows
spectacular views of the great expanse of the Harding Ice Field that
literally fills the entire interior of the park. Of course, you can
simply kick back and relax in Seward. The extra day also provides insurance
in the event that weather prevents the cruise from going out on the
first day.
Getting There
Trip members are responsible for arranging their own transportation to and from
the trip's starting point, arriving in Anchorage on or before July 4; and
departing from Anchorage on or after July 17. We anticipate returning to Anchorage by noon on the last day of the trip, so it is possible to book flights for the evening departure
on July 16 if desired. It is suggested that you arrive early enough to allow for baggage delays or other issues related to air travel to insure that backpack and other equipment are on hand for the start of our trip.
Photo: Fred Paillet
The Sierra Club will provide stoves, pots, fuel, and first-aid kit. As usual on Sierra Club outings, all members will help with cooking and clean-up. Food while in the field is included in the trip fee. Trip members should notify the leader of any special dietary requirements.
Lodging the night before and the night after the trip is not included in the trip price. However, three nights of lodging and meals are provided for our stay in Seward. Meals are provided during the lodge stay in Seward with the exception of lunch and dinner on the free day when participants can make their own arrangements at the many superb seafood restaurants in the area. Or you can take advantage of the kitchen facilities available at our lodge to prepare your own meals.
The trip will be moderate (M), and our route will follow an established and reasonably well maintained Forest Service trail. Recent damage to some stands of spruce by bark beetle may produce local trail obstructions from fallen timber. Side trips may also involve off-trail hiking, especially in the more open country above tree line. Our route will cover about 40 miles, which can be hiked in five travel days. This will allow several layover days to explore with daypacks. Some stream crossing will be necessary.
Summer in southeast Alaska is generally moderate in temperature, although cool, stormy periods can occur and temperate decreases a bit with altitude. Coastal Alaska is a rain forest, and extended wet weather could be encountered. The lush transition zone between forest and tundra is full of tall growth such as fireweed and salmonberry that can saturate clothing and packs even when it is not raining. Participants should be prepared to encounter some days of light rain and mist, and should avoid use of slow-drying cotton clothing. Proper equipment, thoroughly field-tested before the trip, is important. Personal gear should be limited to items that can be carried in your backpack since there is no place to store possessions at the trailhead. There are convenient laundry facilities at the end of the trip in Seward. Other clothing and gear can be stored at your lodging in Anchorage beforehand. Participants must provide their own backpack, sleeping bag, tent, rain gear, and other camping necessities. A complete packing list will be sent to registered participants.
Some of these titles may be out-of-print, but may be available at major libraries. The Title Wave Book Shop, in Anchorage , usually has used copies.
- O'Claire, Armstrong and Carstensen, The Nature of Southeast
Alaska . Probably the best all-around natural history reference
on the area.
- Lord, Nancy, Fish Camp . A great description of rural life
in coastal Alaska
- Murie, Adolf, A Naturalist in Alaska. The single best
reference on wildlife in Alaska.
- McGlosky, William, The Highliners .
A realistic novel treating every form of the fishing industry in Alaska.
- Scwartskopf, Norman , It Doesn't Take a Hero . The famous
general “Stormin Norman” includes a solo trek on the Resurrection Trail in
his biography.
Conservation
Alaska is a major conservation battleground. Throughout the state, issues of national significance involving wilderness protection, oil and mineral development, and forest and wildlife management receive high priority from the Sierra Club and other environmental organizations. And well they should -- Alaska 's public lands belong to all Americans. One of our objectives is to inform participants of these issues so they'll become advocates for this very special land.
A specific focus on this trip will be the massive infestation of spruce bark
beetle in the Kenai. This is a natural pest, but its activity has historically
been limited by cold winter temperatures in the area. Global warming has apparently
allowed the beetle to take a disproportionately heavy toll on Alaskan spruce
forests in recent years. We will also struggle to decide exactly what kind
of spruce we are dealing with. Biologists classify the spruce of the Kenai
as the Lutz variety, a hybrid of coastal sitka and interior white spruces.
The spruce apparently cannot decide what kind it is either since it combines
characteristics of both species.
Sierra Club outings in Alaska and Arctic Canada are special experiences in true wilderness, but they also carry an element of risk. Trip locales are often remote, away from the amenities of civilization, including sophisticated medical care and immediate evacuation possibilities. Many of our Alaska and Arctic Canada trips now carry satellite phones, but even with this technology, communication with the outside world can be difficult and emergency assistance can be days away. Weather in Alaska and Arctic Canada is unpredictable, and inclement weather can be severe. Among other hazards are cold river and stream crossings, tidal activity, calving glaciers, the psychological effects of remoteness, and the presence of large wild animals. You're in good hands, though, so don't worry: Your trip leaders have vast experience in the Last Frontier, and they'll provide all the guidance you need.
See the How to Apply for an Outing section for more details on registering for this trip and details
about our Reservation and Cancellation Policy.
The payment of a deposit does not confirm you as a member on the trip. Participants must be approved by the trip leader. After signing up for this trip, you will be sent a confirmation packet containing approval materials (Participant Approval Questionnaire, Medical Form, Liability Release Form). Each applicant (including those on the waitlist) must fill out these forms and promptly mail them to the trip leader. The leader will review the approval materials and notify you of your acceptance in a timely manner.
Dr. Fred Paillet recently retired as a research scientist with the U.S. Geological Survey. A former professor of
geology, Fred has spent more than two decades collecting field data in many
national parks and foreign countries. He has been visiting Alaska since
1988 and has experienced arctic environments in Canada, Sweden, Switzerland,
and Central Asia, as well as numerous locations in the United States. He has been a staff
member on several Sierra Club Alaska outings and is an accomplished artist
and naturalist. Fred loves to capture the emotion and detail of the Arctic landscape in pen and ink drawings produced on the spot -- complete with flattened mosquito carcasses for authenticity.
E-mail: fredp@cox.net
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