Sierra Club Outings | Rafting Alaska's Wild Rivers; Wrangell, St. Elias, and Chugach Mountains

Rafting Alaska's Wild Rivers; Wrangell, St. Elias, and Chugach Mountains
July 15-July 21, 2009

Highlights:

Experience the mighty Copper River in America’s largest national park, a World Heritage site
Ride our guided oar boats, play in sprawling sand dunes, and watch glaciers calve
Enjoy unique opportunities for wildlife viewing
Drift past towering peaks and glaciers and through one of the world's most dramatic canyons

Includes:

All meals
All rafting and kitchen equipment
River guides to interpret the natural history, ensure safety, and cook delicious meals

The Mountain Kingdom of North America has been described as epic, awesome, and huge. Words, though, don't do justice to the outsized majesty of Wrangell-St. Elias National Park: more than 16 Yosemites would fit within its boundaries, and 5 million of its 13.2 million acres are covered in snow and ice. This spectacular park includes the continent's largest assemblage of glaciers, and the greatest collection of peaks above 16,000 feet. Nearly 10 million acres, or 15,000 square miles, of the park are designated wilderness -- the largest in the U.S. National Park system.

Wrangell-St. Elias National Park and Preserve is known for its extensive delta ecosystem, as well as for its prolific runs of wild salmon, which are among the most highly prized stocks in the world. Our trip begins as the Copper leaves the heart of this UNESCO World Heritage site, and we journey a classic river, heavily laden with glacial silt. Along the way, we'll camp next to the river, where we hope to have time to hike, explore, and spot wildlife, thanks to fast-moving currents. As we get closer to Prince William Sound, we'll cross paths with several glaciers, including the enormous, 40-mile-long Childs Glacier, their giant columns of ice spilling into the water.

We'll use oar-powered rafts, each guided by an experienced river guide. We carry up to three passengers per boat, along with all the trip's gear, food, and equipment. (Each evening, we'll make camp with this gear.) The rafts enable us to carry fresh food, enjoy baked treats from Dutch ovens, day hike long distances without heavy packs, and see a lot more of wild Alaska than would be possible on a backpacking trip of the same duration. We let the river do the work.

With approximately 22 hours of daylight, we will have plenty of time to look for, observe, and appreciate the incredible diversity of flora and fauna of the region. Mammals living here include mountain goats, caribou, moose, grizzly bear, black bear, lynx, wolverine, river otter, wolves, fox, beavers, and porcupines.

The Copper River Basin lies along major migratory routes for numerous bird species. Wetland areas provide seasonal homes for nesting geese, trumpeter swans, ducks, and other waterfowl. Golden and bald eagles, peregrine falcons and gyrfalcons, pine grosbeaks, black-capped chickadees, and several woodpeckers nest within the park. Year-round residents include willow ptarmigan, spruce grouse, ravens, goshawks, and great horned owls. Red, silver, and king salmon, along with rainbow trout, lake trout, grayling, steelhead, and Dolly Varden all use park waters to spawn.

The diversity of the park's landscapes and its complex geological and ecological history are reflected in the composition of the vegetation and flora of the park. Indeed, four mountain systems, eight physiographic provinces, three climate zones, and seven ecoregions span the Wrangell-St. Elias National Park and Preserve. Here you will find sand dunes, glaciers, and volcanic ash. Unusual plant communities accompany the unique landforms of the park. A recent inventory of the park's flora indicates that there are 884 vascular plant species alone.

We will meet in Anchorage for an orientation meeting the evening before the start of the trip. (Details will be provided after you sign up.) As we finalize arrangements for our departure the next morning, you will have your equipment checked out by the guides, and ask any last-minute questions. After the meeting you will have time to pack your river gear into waterproof bags. Try to arrive in Anchorage early to sightsee and do any last-minute shopping.
Below you will find a typical itinerary for the trip. Generally, we will float from four to six hours a day. Once we hit the water, we'll be traveling on river time and letting the river, wildlife viewing possibilities, and general mood of trip participants set the daily schedule. This lets us take advantage of any opportunities that may arise. Be prepared to leave your watch behind and go with the flow.

Days 1: We will travel by van to the put-in on the first day of the trip. We will put in near Chitina. After a thorough orientation and safety presentation, we will begin this classic Alaska river rafting expedition and head off down the river, typically around mid to late afternoon. The mighty Copper has carved a path directly through the Coast Range to the ocean, draining an area of 24,000 square miles. Once in the strong, fast current of the Copper, we'll be headed due south. Amazingly, this river carries nearly as much water as the Mississippi.

Days 2-5: On these days of our Alaska river rafting adventure we float through the Copper River valley where we hope to take time to hike away from the river. If our timing is good, we will spend a half-day hiking across the spectacular sand dunes to a popular grizzly bear fishing spot on the Bremner River. Here the Copper River valley widens. Glacial sand from the Wrangell and St. Elias Mountains has been carried for millennia by the Copper and Bremner Rivers, deposited here, and sculpted into dunes and plateaus. We'll keep an eye out for seals swimming upstream to fish for salmon.

Day 6: We'll arrive at Miles Lake after passing through Baird Canyon and running Abercrombie Rapids. This fun stretch of big waves proved a formidable obstacle to river navigation at the turn of the century, but was substantially changed by the Earthquake of 1964. We'll enjoy the quick ride through the canyon before floating into the lake, which forms a unique arena for sprawling glaciers, icebergs, harbor seals, seagulls, and the mountains of the Chugach Range. If time allows we will spend time taking a short walk across the sand bars to the face of the Miles Glacier.
As we row across Miles Lake, we'll absorb the sights and sounds of Miles and Childs Glaciers as they calve huge icebergs into the river. We will camp just above the "Million Dollar Bridge."

Day 7: We float just a few hundred yards to our take-out. From here we walk to a vantage point where we can see the mighty face of the Child's Glacier calving into the river. This glacier runs directly into the river's path, forcing the water to take a hard left. The river, in turn, forces the glacier to shed large sheets of ice into the water. It's a continual battle between two powerful forces, each unwilling to yield to the other. The thunderous roar of a calving glacier is a sound you won't soon forget. The calving is most active during warm weather in July and August. We'll climb onto the riverbank and watch the glacier calve massive chunks of ice into the chilly waters of the Copper. It is important to be aware of the waves created by the crumbling glacier. They can sometimes throw water and ice 100 feet or more in the air. If the salmon are running, the waves will often blast fish onto the river's banks and strand them on the rocks.

After lunch at the overlook, we will be shuttled to Cordova. Transportation by air back to Anchorage will be provided. Plan on arriving back in Anchorage in the early evening, unless you've decided to extend your stay in Cordova.

To reach Anchorage, you have several options. You can drive, take the ferry, or fly. Anchorage is 2,435 miles from Seattle and 4,649 miles from New York City. Clearly, driving is a serious commitment. The Alaska Marine Highway offers a unique alternative to cruising along Alaska's scenic coastline by ferry. Alaska port cities include Whittier, Seward, Homer, and Valdez, all of which are connected to Anchorage by road and rail. The majority of trip participants will fly into Anchorage, a city served by most major airlines. Do not schedule your arrival and departure times too tightly; allow some flexibility in your flight plans. Don't forget to ask for a window seat! For more information about Anchorage and the wide variety of day trips and excursions from the city, contact the Anchorage Visitor Center, at (907) 276-4118, or www.anchorage.net. We take off the river in Cordova. If you have time, you may want to spend a night or more there instead of making the return to Anchorage with our outfitter. The trip leader can help you locate information to extend your Alaska visit.

Our trip will begin and end in Anchorage. We will also meet in Anchorage the night before the trip for a pre-trip orientation. This meeting is essential, so please plan to arrive in Anchorage by the afternoon of the day before the start of the trip.
Early on the first morning of our trip we will be met by our van for transportation to the put-in. On day 7, we will be transported back to Anchorage by air. It is possible for participants in this trip to extend their stay in the Cordova region after the trip, making their own arrangements for a later return to Anchorage.

All meals -- from lunch on day one to lunch on day seven -- are included in the trip price. Delicious, well-balanced meals with fresh ingredients will be cooked every day in camp. Breakfasts may include French toast, pancakes, eggs, cereals, or Dutch oven-baked muffins. Lunches will often consist of build-your-own sandwiches, with fruit, nuts or cookies to accompany them. Dinners can be anything from Italian to Mexican to Thai, even including fresh-baked brownies or cake for dessert. Juices, coffee, tea, and cocoa will be provided. You may bring moderate amounts of soda or alcoholic beverages in cans or plastic bottles. We will eat very well thanks to the amazing carrying capacity of our rafts and plenty of cooler space.
The guides will do all the cooking, but you are welcome to help out in the kitchen if you wish. This trip is vegetarian-friendly. Please inform the trip leader of any dietary restrictions well in advance of our departure date.

This is a trip of intermediate difficulty. Participants must be in good health and physical condition, and take pride in making adverse conditions an adventure, not an ordeal. Flexibility is the key to an enjoyable Alaskan wilderness experience. This trip is suitable for first-time rafters, but due to the length of the trip, you should have some prior wilderness camping experience. The river is generally fast, high volume, and somewhat turbulent, but there are not rocky rapids on this particular trip. You will be expected to assist in loading and unloading duffels and other equipment from the rafts, and attend to your own campsite. Fortunately, the rafts will be doing the hard work of carrying our gear downriver, so we will have lots of time to float, hike, take pictures, watch for wildlife, and share our experiences.

Typically, July and August are the warmest and among the driest months in Alaska. Weather in the Copper River corridor is very changeable. Sun, rain, wind, fog, and more are common. Temperatures may reach the 80s on clear days, but will likely range between the 40s and the 70s, with overnight lows usually in the 40’s and 50’s. Winds coming across the glaciers can add a significant wind-chill factor to overcast days. It is wise to prepare for pesky insects. We will hope for ideal conditions and be prepared for the unpredictability of wild nature.

Each person will need two to three waterproof bags to hold gear and clothing. In addition, a small drybag will be needed to hold items such as a camera or binoculars that you need access to while you're on the river. Dry bags can be provided from the outfitter upon early request. Lifejackets, plates, cups, and utensils will be provided.
Often, days are filled with sun and temperatures range from the 40's to the mid 80's, but cold rain and wind are equally possible. Nights are cooler with lows typically in the 40's and 50's.

Clothing should work well in layers to accommodate weather changes. Waterproof outerwear is essential. You will need a good three- or four-season, low-profile tent with rain fly, sleeping bag and pad, and shoes for hiking in tundra and creek drainages. Knee-high rubber boots are highly recommended, but neoprene booties could possibly work. Some tents, sleeping bags, and pads are available for rent from the outfitter with an early request –in other words, don’t wait until the last minute to decide on rentals. The REI store in Anchorage also has equipment rentals. A detailed equipment list will be sent to all participants.

Maps:
• Trails Illustrated (1:375,000): "Wrangell-St Elias National Park"USGS Alaska topos (1:250,000): "McCarthy," "Valdez," and "Cordova"
Get a copy of The Milepost for highway logs and detailed information on cities, parks, businesses, lodging, and attractions.

Southeast Alaska is no longer remote from the influences of the industrialized world. Oil exploration and extraction, cruise ship traffic, expanded tourism, mining activities, intensive and expanding exploitation of marine fisheries, and climate change all pose threats to the biodiversity of Alaska's ecosystems and their sustained productivity. We will discuss past and present human impacts on the Copper River and its wild salmon runs. Most importantly, we will learn some of what must happen to protect this fragile and unique landscape.

"A thing is right when it tends to preserve the integrity, stability, and beauty of the biotic community. It is wrong when it tends otherwise."
-- Aldo Leopold

Sierra Club outings in Alaska and Arctic Canada are special experiences in true wilderness, but they also carry an element of risk. Trip locales are often remote, away from the amenities of civilization, including sophisticated medical care and immediate evacuation possibilities. Many of our Alaska and Arctic Canada trips now carry satellite phones, but even with this technology, communication with the outside world can be difficult and emergency assistance can be days away. Weather in Alaska and Arctic Canada is unpredictable, and inclement weather can be severe. Among other hazards are cold river and stream crossings, tidal activity, calving glaciers, the psychological effects of remoteness, and the presence of large wild animals. You're in good hands, though, so don't worry: Your trip leaders have vast experience in the Last Frontier, and they'll provide all the guidance you need.

The payment of a deposit does not confirm you as a member on the trip. Participants must be approved by the trip leader. After signing up for this trip, you will be sent a confirmation packet containing approval materials (Participant Approval Questionnaire, Medical Form, Liability Release Form). Each applicant (including those on the waitlist) must fill out these forms and promptly mail them to the trip leader. The leader will review the approval materials and notify you of your acceptance in a timely manner.

Holly Wenger has led numerous Sierra Club trips in Alaska and northwestern Canada, from canoeing, sea kayaking, back packing, and day hiking to rafting. She is passionate about sharing the beauty and also the profoundly humbling experiences of northern wilderness with others. Holly will encourage you to view your trip from many angles, and to return home with a desire to advocate for protection of Earth�s natural resources. You can contact Holly by e-mail at: hollywenger@msn.com