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Photo by Wilbur Mills

Photo: Wilbur Mills


Brooks Range Sourdough Sojourn, Alaska
August 8-August 15, 2009

Highlights:

  • Visit the historic village of Wiseman
  • Savor the possibility of seeing migrating caribou
  • Live the "sourdough" lifestyle at a wilderness log cabin

Includes:

  • Roundtrip charter flights
  • Meals and snacks
  • All group gear: stoves, pots, fuel, and first-aid kit

Trip Number: 09026A

Price: $3595

Deposit: $200

Capacity: 8

Leader:
Wilbur Mills

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The Trip

Unfortunately, this trip has been cancelled. If you have questions, please contact us.
Photo by Wilbur Mills
Photo: Wilbur Mills

When oil was discovered at Prudhoe Bay in the 1970s, things in Alaska changed. Suddenly, the Last Frontier was a major political issue: Oil companies, native people, the state of Alaska, and environmental groups now fought each other over this vast public domain, which had previously attracted little interest. Out of this contest came the Native Claims Settlement Act, which awarded 40 million of Alaska's acres to the natives and 104 million to the state, while setting aside another 100 million or so for future national parks and wildlife refuges.

In a bizarre twist -- only the bureaucrats and politicians could say why -- 11 million acres were left open for just one year, under the antiquated homestead laws of the 1800s. This was hardly good public land policy; it did, however, give the leader the opportunity to claim a few acres in the heart of the Brooks Range wilderness.

Twenty years of memorable adventures followed: building a log cabin and cache entirely without power tools; encounters, sometimes scary, with bears, wolves, and wolverines; and epic journeys through miles of surrounding wilderness by foot, canoe, skis, dog team, and snow machine. The leader lived largely off the land there for three winters, 50 miles above the Arctic Circle. This was an introduction to living in the Alaskan bush, to what Alaskans call the "sourdough" lifestyle. This trip gives the leader the opportunity to share that lifestyle with you.

Itinerary

Photo by Wilbur Mills
Photo: Wilbur Mills

Trip members are responsible for arranging their own transportation to and from Fairbanks. The trip leader may have airline and airport recommendations, etc. Arctic air travel, commercial or charter, is not always on schedule and luggage is occasionally delayed. It is strongly advised that you allow leeway at the beginning of the trip for delayed luggage and at the end of the trip for possible delays caused by weather.

Trip members are advised to arrive in Fairbanks no later than early afternoon on August 7, and plan their departure for August 16 or later. Our group meets in Fairbanks on Friday, August 7. The following morning we travel north by van on the Dalton Highway to the historic village of Wiseman. This town is the subject of Robert Marshall's delightful book, Arctic Village, which describes life in the Alaska bush during the Great Depression. Many of the historic buildings still remain. We overnight here in a rustic, log bed and breakfast before flying by bush plane to the cabin the next morning.

The cabin, with its cozy wood stove, serves as our dining area and social center. Trip members will sleep in tents. Ample opportunity exists for hiking, as well as more leisurely pursuits such as berry picking and photography. The cabin site is surrounded by mountains and a canoe will afford access to both sides of the river for exploration. The valley was called one of the most beautiful in the Brooks Range by the federal study team that surveyed it for status as a Wild River. It was proposed for inclusion in the Gates of the Arctic National Park and was actually included in two bills passed by Congress. However, the Alaska delegation succeeded in getting many choice park lands eliminated from the final bill, which passed in 1980. The Gates of the Arctic boundary now lies 10 miles to the north.

We will witness the onset of the Arctic autumn, when caribou move toward their winter range. The valley provides a major route for part of the Western Arctic herd, the largest in Alaska at over 400,000 animals. If we are lucky, we might be able to witness part of this migration. With their prominent manes and fully-developed antlers just emerging from summer velvet, the bulls are especially impressive this time of year. Fall colors may be an added bonus as birches, willows, poplars, bear berry, and blueberry transform the landscape into a mosaic of yellows and reds. The 24-hour daylight of summer is waning, and the few hours of darkness may allow a glimpse of the Aurora Borealis. Crisp nights ensure minimal mosquitoes.

Fishing

Fishing should be good at this time of year. Grayling and Arctic char are found in the streams. A fishing license is required and may be purchased at sporting goods stores in Fairbanks.

Accommodations and Food

The Sierra Club furnishes stoves, pots, fuel, and first-aid kit. As usual on Sierra Club Outings, all members help with cooking and clean-up, each person assisting for a day or two. Food is included in the trip fee. Trip members should notify the leader of any special dietary requirements as soon as possible. Lodging in Wiseman on August 8 is included in the trip price. Lodging in Fairbanks before and after the trip is not included. Suggestions on Fairbanks accommodations will be provided by the leader

Trip Difficulty

Photo by Carl Johnson
Photo: Carl Johnson

The trip is rated Light (L). We will, however, be in a remote wilderness area where immediate medical assistance is not available. Therefore, you should be in good physical condition and have wilderness camping experience. Our daily hiking excursions are, of course, optional. Some of the walks may be demanding depending on the interests of the group. We may possibly take an overnight hike upriver to the Gates of the Arctic National Park.

Equipment and Clothing

The following gear is required:

  • Backpack: internal frame preferred. A backpack is the best way to transport your personal gear, which must be hand-carried for short distances. A duffel bag will work, but it is more cumbersome.
  • Personal gear: bag (rated to 20 degrees), ensolite pad or air mattress, small towel, biodegradable soap, toothbrush and toothpaste, toilet paper, small sewing kit and safety pins, cup and bowl, pocket- or sheath knife, sunglasses, sunscreen, lip salve, mosquito repellent, waterproof matches, basic personal first-aid kit, assortment of plastic bags.
  • Boots: A sturdy pair of comfortable hiking boots, well broken-in. Some hikes require stream-fording, so be prepared for possible wet feet. Bring an extra pair of shoes for camp wear.
  • Clothes: Socks (at least three pairs), thermal underwear including long bottoms, long-sleeved shirt, pants, light wool gloves and hat, raingear (jacket with hood and pants or chaps -- no ponchos), sweater or shirt, down or fiberfill jacket, tennis shoes or moccasins for camp wear.
  • Tent: A lightweight, quality tent with rainfly and mosquito netting is required. The tent should be field-tested. People without a suitable tent should notify the trip leader, as others may be willing to share.
  • Optional: Day pack, binoculars (almost essential for observing wildlife), fishing gear, water bottle, camera and film, maps, books, and baby wipes (for personal hygiene).

Summer in the Brooks Range is generally moderate, although cold, stormy periods can occur. Be prepared to be out and active in the rain. Temperatures can range from 30-70 degrees, although wind chill can make it feel even colder. Proper equipment is critical. All equipment should be thoroughly field-tested before trip departure. Personal gear must not weigh more than 38 pounds, including cameras and hand-carried items.

For questions about equipment, please contact the leader.

References

Maps

USGS 1:250,000-series quadrangle: " Ambler River "

Books

  • Kauffmann, John, Alaska 's Brooks Range
  • Sims, Grant, Leaving Alaska
  • Lopez, Barry, Arctic Dreams
  • Watkins, T.H., Vanishing Arctic
  • Pielou, E.C., A Naturalists Guide to the Arctic
  • Marshall, Robert, Arctic Village

"The Kotzebue Basin," published by Alaska Geographic Society, Vol. 8, No. 3, is full of interesting information and photographs of the area. While out-of-print, it may be available in libraries. The cabin has an extensive library with many of the above references.

Conservation

Conservation is a major issue on all Alaska trips, and we will discuss the most pressing of the state's environmental challenges. Perhaps in no other state are the problems so acute -- maybe because they involve such vast areas of wild lands.

Sierra Club outings in Alaska and Arctic Canada are special experiences in true wilderness, but they also carry an element of risk. Trip locales are often remote, away from the amenities of civilization, including sophisticated medical care and immediate evacuation possibilities. Many of our Alaska and Arctic Canada trips now carry satellite phones, but even with this technology, communication with the outside world can be difficult and emergency assistance can be days away. Weather in Alaska and Arctic Canada is unpredictable, and inclement weather can be severe. Among other hazards are cold river and stream crossings, tidal activity, calving glaciers, the psychological effects of remoteness, and the presence of large wild animals. You're in good hands, though, so don't worry: Your trip leaders have vast experience in the Last Frontier, and they'll provide all the guidance you need.

Trip Price

See the How to Apply for an Outing section for more details on registering for this trip and details about our Reservation and Cancellation Policy.

The payment of a deposit does not confirm you as a member on the trip. Participants must be approved by the trip leader. After signing up for this trip, you will be sent a confirmation packet containing approval materials (Participant Approval Questionnaire, Medical Form, Liability Release Form). Each applicant (including those on the waitlist) must fill out these forms and promptly mail them to the trip leader. The leader will review the approval materials and notify you of your acceptance in a timely manner.

Staff

Wilbur Mills Wilbur first visited the Brooks Range in 1969. Since then, he has made more than 30 backpacking and float trips on both the North and South Slopes. He has been involved with Sierra Club National Outings since 1975, leading trips throughout the Brooks Range and in Central America. He has been active in the effort to protect Alaska wilderness for just as long, spending extensive periods in Washington, D.C. lobbying for national environmental groups.

Wilbur's major interests are nature photography and Arctic ecology. He has an in-depth knowledge of Arctic plants, birds, and animals, and his photographs have appeared in numerous magazines and books. For instance, he was principal photographer for the Sierra Club book Alaska: The Great Land, and for the book on the Arctic Refuge, Vanishing Arctic.

E-mail: wilburm@verizon.net



General Notes About Sierra Club Trips