Photo: Richard Fite Somewhere Over the Rainbow, Navajo Indian Reservation Highlights:
Includes:
Trip Number: 09083A Price: $795 Deposit: $100 Capacity: 12 Rating: MS Leader:
The Trip  Photo: Richard Fite "Dawn over the arid West. It’s Joshua Tree, Utah, central Nevada, Anza Borrego, or somewhere off the highway near Barstow. It’s all part of the geography of hope." -- Jerry and Renny Russell in On the Loose "I’d rather wake up in the middle of nowhere than in any city on earth." -- Steve McQueenSeekers of remote, beautiful places need look no further. Between the blue forested volcanic cone of Navajo Mountain and the town of Page, Arizona lies a high desert wilderness as unvisited and remote as can be found anywhere. Called the Rainbow Plateau, this small corner of our planet is protected by its extraordinary difficulty of access. Bordered on the north by Lake Powell and the south by Navajo Canyon, no roads penetrate the Plateau (no paved road comes even close), and except for a few no-longer-used Navajo sheep trails, there are not even footpaths. Home to Navajo sheepherding families in the early twentieth century, the area today is rarely visited even by the Navajo and almost never by non-Navajo tourist hikers and backpackers. For those whose geography of hope includes dawn over the arid west and waking up in the middle of nowhere, there is no better place. A labyrinth of twisting canyons, sandstone domes, and high buttes and monuments, the Rainbow Plateau is a feast of scenic magnificence. On this trip "Somewhere over the Rainbow", we will experience canyons that are, in places, narrow, dark and cold, and in other places, sunny and warm with streams bordered by cottonwood and willow. We will hike through domelands of red Navajo sandstone with cross-bedded slickrock and unexpected dropoffs, and we will enjoy panoramic views while exploring high mesas close to the original surface of the Colorado Plateau. Every day will test our navigational skill as we find our way through a tangled maze of fractured and eroded sandstone. While we may sometimes find and use old Navajo sheep trails, our route is entirely cross-country and we will not follow any maintained hiking trails for the simple reason that there are none. The hike will explore several major canyons, including Sand canyon and West canyon. We will discover and cross a large natural bridge, find pictographs and other archeological sites, climb to the base of Octagon Butte and perhaps to the top of Cummings Mesa. The interests of the group and the weather will determine the precise route of the hike. The rugged nature of the terrain through which we will travel makes this trip more than an introduction to hiking the Colorado Plateau. Rather it is a mini-expedition through a rarely visited desert wilderness and once we leave Page, participants are committed to the entire trip. Other than by helicopter, leaving early is impossible.
 Photo: Richard Fite This eight-day loop hike will begin and end at the home of a Navajo friend and his family – one of two families living on the edge of the Rainbow Plateau. Because the route between Page and the Rainbow Plateau includes a difficult 4WD track requiring local knowledge, participants are encouraged to use transport services provided by local Navajo friends (not part of Sierra Club trip). Day 1: Starting at the residence close to our friend’s home, we will backpack 8-10 miles down a major canyon to our campsite. The canyon is used for grazing and we may briefly exchange greetings with a Navajo herder tending his or her flock of sheep and goats. Day 2: We'll continue to a side canyon where we begin our climb onto the Rainbow Plateau. Days 3-7: We'll explore the Plateau. We will have one or two layover days. On the last day, we climb the slickrock above the head of West Canyon to the base of Octagon Butte, then descend from there to Jayi canyon where we meet our Navajo friends for transport back to Page. Transport between Page and the Rainbow Plateau will be provided by local Navajo and is not part of the Sierra Club trip. Information on these services will be provided. The cost of these services, about $60 per person, will be paid directly to the Navajo and is not included in the trip price. The trip is entirely on land within the Navajo Nation and through an area normally closed to non-Navajo visitors (as is most of the Navajo Nation). The Sierra Club is able to offer this trip only because of the special relationship between the leader and the local Navajo. Individuals should not attempt this hike on their own. Those wishing information on areas open to hiking should contact the Navajo Department of Tribal Parks and Recreation in Window Rock. Getting There The leader will provide travel information for getting to Page, Arizona and from Page to the Rainbow Plateau. Great Lakes Aviation provides commercial air service to Page and has codesharing with several major airlines. The group will have a pre-trip meeting in Page on Friday evening, April 17.
All meals are included in the trip cost. Meals will be simple and tasty with an emphasis on high-energy lightweight foods. We will have no food caches or resupply and so we must carry our entire food requirement for the eight days. Although the menu is not vegetarian, participants who wish to avoid red meats can be accommodated. Strict vegans and others with highly restrictive diets should contact the leader before registering for the trip. Cooking and cleanup will be shared by all participants with guidance as necessary. The first meal is lunch on Saturday, April 18 and the last is lunch on Saturday, April 25. Because personal preferences in hot drinks and trail snacks differ so widely, these are not included in the trip commissary.
Considerable backpacking experience is essential. Although the total backpacking distance (about 50 miles) is not exceptional, the rugged nature of the terrain makes this a challenging trip for which participants need be in good physical condition. Participants should have a positive mental attitude towards prolonged exercise and physical exertion and must be comfortable walking in soft sand, ascending and descending steep sandstone slickrock, bouldering, scrambling in joint cracks with loose rock and crossing streams. Some days will include walking in water which will be deep in places and bushwhacking through dense reeds and willow thicket. Participants must be able to carry all their personal equipment plus a share of the commissary --perhaps as much as 40-45 pounds total backpack weight at the beginning of the trip. While the trip does not include technical rock climbing, we will ascend and descend very steep sandstone slickrock. Strength, stamina, agility and a high level of comfort with heights are all necessary. In at least two places – and more if necessary -- we will set a handline for assistance and to bolster confidence. The rewards of the trip, in scenery and in solitude, are commensurate with the difficulty. Group Dynamics The Rainbow Plateau is truly a labyrinthine maze. This topographical complexity and the fact that we are not following an established trail impose several behavioral constraints on participants. Most importantly, because individuals who become separated from the group are likely to become seriously lost, we must hike in a reasonably closely spaced group. This does not mean a rigid, military-style formation --the leader could not tolerate that. But participants who, for whatever reason, like to hike far ahead of the group or lag considerably behind should choose another trip. To avoid becoming lost, solo exploration of the Plateau will be discouraged. Those who feel they must do so, even if only briefly, must discuss their intentions with the leader. Because the group must remain together, we must be unusually sensitive to the needs and expectations of others, particularly the reasonable expectation that we visit the area to enjoy its quiet beauty and peaceful solitude. While the trip is not intended as a meditation retreat, please remember that excessive talk and noise are inconsistent with most participants' objectives for this trip. The leader enjoys playing flute and recorder and may bring a lightweight instrument on the trip. Other participants are invited to do so if they wish. Consumption or possession of alcoholic beverage is illegal on the Navajo Nation. We will demonstrate our respect for the Navajo by compliance with their laws.
Springtime weather on the Rainbow Plateau is usually comfortable and pleasant but it is also highly variable and participants should be prepared for extremes of hot and cold. Nighttime lows in the 40s are likely and even in the low 30s are possible, as is snow or rain. Daytime highs in the 60s, 70s, or even 80s are likely. In early April, warm weather is more probable than cold but come prepared for both. Parts of some canyons are narrow, dark, and wet and certain to be cold, even in late April. Complete backpacking equipment, including a reliably dry tent, backpack, sleeping bag comfortable in the low 30s, sleeping pad, rain gear, a bowl or cup and eating utensils, and hiking boots, is essential. Group commissary equipment will be provided. Due to the challenging terrain across which we will hike and the need to carry all our food, lightweight equipment is critically important. Participants must minimize nonessential items. The leader will provide a detailed equipment list and other trip information by mid-February. Appropriate footwear for hiking in water and lightweight dry bags with sufficient capacity for personal equipment are required. Conservation Discussion of conservation issues will focus on conservation of public lands in Arizona and southern Utah.
See the How to Apply for an Outing section for more details on registering for this trip and details about our Reservation and Cancellation Policy. The payment of a deposit does not confirm you as a member on the trip. Participants must be approved by the trip leader. After signing up for this trip, you will be sent a confirmation packet containing approval materials (Participant Approval Questionnaire, Medical Form, Liability Release Form). Each applicant (including those on the waitlist) must fill out these forms and promptly mail them to the trip leader. The leader will review the approval materials and notify you of your acceptance in a timely manner.
General Notes About Sierra Club Trips
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Certified as a Wilderness First Responder, Richard has over 20 years of backpacking experience and has climbed most of the high mountains in his home state of New Hampshire. He has also hiked extensively in many western states and has explored nearly every corner of the Rainbow Plateau, while leading numerous backpack trips for the Sierra Club and other organizations. Richard is employed as a risk analyst for the United States Department of Agriculture.