Sierra Club Outings | Exploring the Lost Coast of California

Exploring the Lost Coast of California
May 31-June 7, 2009

Highlights:

Hike the spectacular Lost Coast
Observe the rich wildlife of the Sinkyone Wilderness

Includes:

Meals, beginning with dinner on the first day
Group cooking gear

With the roar of the Pacific as our constant companion, we will hike the spectacular coastal range and trails of the remote Sinkyone Wilderness. In early June the rainy season is over and the summer coastal fog has usually not settled in yet. Osprey circle high above while seals and sea lions bark from remote beaches. Roosevelt Elk roam free along our route. Black bears wander down from the mountains in search of dead seals or an occasional snack of backpacker's food left unprotected. Brown pelicans, along with many varieties of small shorebirds and gulls, add color and beauty to the scene.

When the builders of State Highway 1 were confronted with the Range's extremely rocky and steep terrain, they were forced to move the planned road inland about 30 miles. With no access available, this remote and beautiful stretch of land became known as the Lost Coast.

The Sinkyone Wilderness State Park was made possible in the mid-70s, by a California ballot measure authorizing its purchase. It includes 7,300 acres, and is sometimes referred to as a "zoological garden." The native Mattole and Sinkyone people thrived for thousands of years on the bounty of this land, and still use it for ceremonies and festivals. Recent studies indicate that these two reserves may contain as many as 45 prehistoric archaeological sites. Later settlers brought shipping, ranching, and logging to the area.

Day 1: We will meet around 4 p.m. at the Nadelos Campground which is approximately 5 miles East of Shelter Cove. This is an approximate seven-hour drive from the San Francisco Bay area. After getting acquainted we will arrange the next day�s car shuttle, and check our equipment and packs. A roster will be sent out early enough before the trip that participants can arrange to share rides and rental cars. Due to the shuttle, we will need a minimum number of cars. There is no public transportation available to our meeting place.

Day 2: After an early breakfast, the drivers will convoy to the Usal Campground at the southern end of the Lost Coast Trail and return to the Nadelos Campground with a prearranged shuttle service. The remaining participants can visit Shelter Cove or explore the numerous trails near our campsite. We will reassemble for dinner, arrange the distribution of the central commissary gear and bear canisters, and turn in early to be well rested for the spectacular 4-day trek ahead of us.

Day 3: We begin our hike high in Chemise Mountain Primitive Area, following a "roller coaster" trail with unforgettable views and amazingly varied landscape on our trek down to the coastline. We set up camp stream-side at Jones Beach Camp a quarter-mile walk to the Jones Beach Cove. Our first day�s hike covers 6.5 miles with 2,700 feet of descent and 1,100 feet of ascent.

Days 4: This relaxing 4-mile day offers much to explore as we pass by the Sinkyone Wilderness Visitor Center at Needle Rock, and several old orchards and homesteads before reaching our camping spot at historic Bear Harbor. Once a port, this beach is a now a popular place for surf fishing, beach combing and abalone diving.

Day 5: Again we climb, this time up a steep, narrow gully with a spectacular display of sword ferns. After cresting the ridge we come upon a grove of old growth redwoods, then make a steep descent into Wheeler Camp. From 1951 until 1960 this was the site of a small wood processing plant and company town. The roller coaster returns as we make our way -- occasionally distracted by magnificent vistas -- from Wheeler Camp to Little Jackass Creek, where we will spend a relaxing afternoon and evening camping near a beach with picturesque sea caves and towering cliffs. If we are lucky the seals will be frolicking in the surf, as they were on my last visit. This way covers 6 miles with 3100 feet of ascent and 3,100 feet of descent.

Day 6: From Little Jackass Creek, the final hiking day of our trip is a 7.5-mile trek rich with far-reaching views to the south, and finishes off with a descent through a lovely forest into the Usal Campground. After 2,500 feet of ascents and 2,700 feet of descents we can take a quick drive to an expansive beach or just relax in this comfortable campground.

Day 7: After a relaxing late breakfast we take a scenic drive to Van Damme State Park just south of Mendocino. On the way we will stop in the town of Mendocino, famous for its art galleries and quaint boutiques. Before heading to our camp we will pick up some fresh salmon and wine for our last night�s dinner. In the afternoon we can take an organized Nature Walk in the state park.

Day 8: We will enjoy our last breakfast together before heading back to �civilization�. For those who choose to say longer, there is an opportunity to take a guided ocean kayak trip to the caves off the spectacular Mendocino coastline (not included in trip, but highly recommended at a cost of $50 including all equipment and guide).

Based on past food planning experience, we will offer a variety of menus, lots of flavor, calories, nutrition, and not too much red meat. We can accommodate vegetarian participants.

While this trip is rated light to moderate (L/M), do not underestimate the demands of carrying a pack on the rugged coastal trails. You must be an experienced backpacker and be involved in a regular program of aerobic exercise to enjoy this trip. The stiff climbs followed by steep descents will require strong knees. In addition, coastal weather is unpredictable and can become quite dramatic at any time of year.

A detailed equipment list is available at www.knapsack.org/basic_equipment.html. It is important to have sturdy, lightweight equipment, as your pack plus personal gear should weigh no more than 25 pounds. Each trip member will be given a bear canister with trip food, cooking gear, etc., and this will add another 10-15 pounds to your pack. Boots are particularly important; you should have six-inch tops with Vibram lug soles. They must be broken-in. Waterproof jacket, pants, and tent are strongly recommended.

Wilderness Press map: "Trails of the Lost Coast." It covers our whole route and has lots of interesting information on both the King Range National Conservation area and the Sinkyone Wilderness State Park. Available from mail@wildernesspress.com.

The conservation emphasis for this trip will be the California Wild Heritage Campaign. The Sierra Club has developed useful materials about these special places, and the leader will send some out prior to the trip.

If there are environmental issues in your local area or region that you would like to share with the group, please come prepared to help us learn about them.

The payment of a deposit does not confirm you as a member on the trip. Participants must be approved by the trip leader. After signing up for this trip, you will be sent a confirmation packet containing approval materials (Participant Approval Questionnaire, Medical Form, Liability Release Form). Each applicant (including those on the waitlist) must fill out these forms and promptly mail them to the trip leader. The leader will review the approval materials and notify you of your acceptance in a timely manner.

Jindra Goodman is an experienced backpacker who has participated in and lead many High Sierra outings with the Sierra Club. In addition, she has backpacked in New Zealand, Nepal, Patagonia, and the Alps. She is also an active member of several wilderness search and rescue teams.

E-mail: jgoodman@sjsu.edu