Sierra Club Outings | Canoeing the Lower Canyons of the Rio Grande, Texas

Canoeing the Lower Canyons of the Rio Grande, Texas
September 30-October 11, 2009

Highlights:

Canoe 72 miles of the Wild and Scenic Rio Grande
Side-canyon hikes, hot spring soaks, class II-III rapids
Enjoy riverside camps and fresh, homemade meals

Includes:

Canoes, equipment, and river guides
Transportation to and from the river
All meals and tents
Lodging before and after the trip

The Rio Grande carves the southern boundary of Big Bend National Park for 118 miles and its Wild and Scenic designation extends another 127 miles downstream beyond the park. This area is known as the Lower Canyons, where paddlers disappear from the 'real world' through a system of desert canyons. Isolated with just a few dirt roads penetrating the surrounding Chihuahuan desert, this is one of the last truly wilderness river trips to be found in the United States. Only 2% of the rivers in the U.S. are free-flowing and pristine enough to qualify for Wild and Scenic designation and the Lower Canyons qualify on both counts. We'll paddle 72 miles through immense beauty and solitude. Native American pictographs, hot and cold natural springs, caves, sheer walls of rock, numerous side canyons, abandoned homesteads and candelilla camps are highlighted by serenity and absolute silence. We'll likely see no one on the river but ourselves. Time loses meaning as our schedule is run by the natural rhythms of the river and we experience the nuances of canyon living.

Our days include a combination of paddling, exploring enchanting side canyons, soaking in springs, birding, or just relaxing under the shade of a cottonwood tree at camp. The Lower Canyons contain some of the most challenging rapids on the Rio Grande. While some canoe experience is desirable, strong, well-conditioned beginners with a spirit of adventure are welcome. Our enthusiastic, experienced river guides will give instruction, layout safety guidelines, lead hikes, cook, and teach us about the botany, geology, and history of the area. Though our riverbank camps will be remote, we'll hardly be roughing it as we'll have generous meals made of fresh ingredients and other unexpected comforts. The Lower Canyons is a magical place providing outstanding opportunities for solitude and wilderness experience far off the beaten path. The memories made here will never be forgotten on this trip of a lifetime.

No two trips are alike in the Lower Canyons due to seasonal and yearly changes in weather, water flow, and strength and interests of the group.

Day 1: Meet our guides in Marathon, Texas. The first night's lodging in Marathon is included in the trip price.

Day 2: We will be picked-up at our motel in Marathon and taken to the put-in site. We will drive through the Black Gap Wildlife Management Area where we may see desert bighorn sheep, javelina, deer, black bear, roadrunners, coyotes, bobcats, mountain lions, and other desert wildlife. After instruction and a safety talk, our adventure begins on the river. A class II rapid jumpstarts the excitement before our first camp under a starry sky.

Days 3-10: Our schedule ebbs and flows with the river, paddling 4-6 hours per day while spending our free time hiking through side canyons, soaking in hot springs, watching for birds and wildlife, investigating historic ruins, and marveling at a myriad of geologic wonders. Camps will be especially scenic at geologic landmarks and within canyon walls rising up to 1,500 feet. We cease thinking about time as we watch the sunrise brighten the cliffs above our camps and gaze at a black, star-filled sky. Optional hikes to magnificent side canyons and our guides' knowledge of the area enhance our experience.

Day 11: Our last paddling day, comes too soon as we head to the take-out point. We'll end the trip as we started, at a pretty spot at the end of a dirt road. After loading the canoes and gear, we'll be taken back to our motel in Marathon. The last night's lodging in Marthon is included with the trip. After showers, we'll celebrate our adventure over dinner.

The Lower Canyons are in one of the most isolated corners of the country. The closest airports are Midland-Odessa, 155 miles from Marathon, or El Paso, 255 miles from Marathon. It's recommended to fly in the day before the trip starts in case of luggage or flight delays, staying at either Midland or El Paso before driving to Marathon. Otherwise, you will need an early morning flight on day one in order to get to Marathon by our late afternoon meeting time. There is no public transportation or shuttle services in this remote part of West Texas, so carpooling and rental car sharing is important. The leader will provide driving directions and a roster of trip members to facilitate ride-sharing. Our river guides will be providing transportation from Marathon to the Rio Grande, so cars will be left in Marathon during the canoe trip. Return flights may be planned for late afternoon of day twelve.

Motel accommodations in Marathon are provided for days one and eleven, before and after the canoe trip. While we're canoeing, camps will be set up riverside with roomy two-person tents provided for us. A "porta-potty" system will be at each camp to insure privacy and to protect the primitive quality of the area.

The trip price includes meals from lunch on day two through lunch on day eleven. Meals while we're canoeing include fresh foods that are brought in canoes our guides will be paddling. Our days start with breakfasts of eggs, bacon, sausage, pancakes, fresh fruit, juice, and hot drinks. Typical lunches include deli spreads of meats, cheese, fruit, chips, salads, and cookies while dinners feature fish, chicken, steaks, pasta, vegetables, salads, and homemade Dutch oven desserts. Vegetarians can be accommodated, but this and any other food restrictions should be indicated to the leader as far in advance of the trip as possible. Meals while staying in Marathon are not included with the trip.

There are some challenging class II and III rapids on this trip, their difficulty depending on water flow at the time. While some canoe experience would be desirable, strong, healthy, spirited beginners will get instruction from our guides and put in boats with more experienced paddlers. Rapids will be scouted and any deemed unsafe can be portaged around. In addition to paddling, there are hikes planned into many interesting side canyons. You will enjoy this trip more if you are in good physical condition. Expect to be rowing in a two-person canoe several hours a day. We will have at least three guides to give instruction at the beginning and throughout the trip. The difficulty of the hikes vary from hopping a few rocks on the beach to several miles over rough terrain. Hiking before the trip will prepare you for this. Your mental preparation is just as important as your physical conditioning. We will be spending ten days in the backcountry away from cell phones, television, and other comforts of home. Your ability to tune into nature and go with the flow of river life will increase your enjoyment of this outing.

A detailed equipment list will be sent to trip participants. Participants are expected to furnish their own personal camping gear. This includes a sleeping bag rated to 30 degrees, sleeping pad, reliable raingear, layers of clothing comfortable between 45-85 degrees, sandals or Crocs with an ankle strap for the river, dry shoes for camp, a daypack, and hiking boots. Tents and group commissary equipment will be provided. You will be comfortable paddling in quick-drying shorts or a swimsuit and t-shirt during the day. In early October we can expect daytime temperatures in the 80's and nighttime temperatures in the 50's. Some late summer thunderstorms may also be expected. Birders will want good binoculars and everyone will want cameras to photograph the undescribable scenery. Waterproof bags are provided to keep your gear dry.

In a place as remote as the Lower Canyons, you would expect to find nature in its most unchanged state, however this is not the case. Dams upstream from Big Bend divert water to feed Mexican agriculture, pollutants and exotic organisms are carried downstream into pristine habitats, and the flow of natural springs is diminished by water-sucking invasive plants such as tamarisk and river cane. We will discuss these problems with our river guides who live in the Big Bend area and try to come up with ideas to help keep this national treasure clean and healthy. We will do our part by practicing Leave No Trace principles and carrying out everything we carry in.

The payment of a deposit does not confirm you as a member on the trip. Participants must be approved by the trip leader. After signing up for this trip, you will be sent a confirmation packet containing approval materials (Participant Approval Questionnaire, Medical Form, Liability Release Form). Each applicant (including those on the waitlist) must fill out these forms and promptly mail them to the trip leader. The leader will review the approval materials and notify you of your acceptance in a timely manner.

Melinda Goodwater has been leading backpack trips for Sierra Club Outings for over 15 years. She quit her full-time job when it got in the way of her trips and has been leading adventures ever since. She leads treks from Nepal to Alaska to the desert Southwest. When not in the wilderness, Melinda still does consulting work as an electronic engineer. Melinda has training in CPR and is a wilderness first responder. She is an avid fan of long trails (a reasonable section at a time), so don't be surprised if you bump into her in the wilderness sometime!

E-mail: mgoodwater@sbcglobal.net