Sierra Club Outings | In Search of the Ultimate Trek: The Laya-Lingshi Circuit, Bhutan

In Search of the Ultimate Trek: The Laya-Lingshi Circuit, Bhutan
September 14-October 2, 2009

Highlights:

Trek a challenging route through a remote land
Take in stunning Himalayan landscapes
Experience extraordinary wildlife and culture

Includes:

All lodging, meals, and transportation in Bhutan
Porters, pack animals, and guides for our extensive trek

Trekking is the best way to experience life in this special place. The horses and camp staff will usually pass us each day so when we arrive in camp, the tents will be set up and dinner preparations underway. This trek journeys through remote landscapes and villages where tourists are rarely seen. En route you will witness the best of Bhutan's Himalayan grandeur, meet the farmers and yak herding families of the highlands, and admire the way this tiny independent kingdom has so successfully preserved its environment and its thriving Buddhist culture.

Bhutan is the last of the independent Buddhist kingdoms of the Himalayas and is said to have one foot in the past and the other in the future. It is a place where the king has stated that gross national happiness is more important than gross national product. Bhutan's first priority is preservation of its culture and natural resources, followed by economic development. This policy allows for a peaceful, stable way of life that is endowed with happiness and a purpose often missing in more technologically advanced societies.

Although not heavily trafficked, the Laya-Lingshi circuit is widely considered to be one of the most scenic, naturally wild, and culturally fascinating treks in the world! It is a strenuous to occasionally very strenuous endeavor but is well worth the effort because the route traverses a great cross section of the Himalayas in Bhutan with ancient, active Buddhist monasteries, terrific wildlife possibilities, and remote time-warped villages all along the way. The route winds from the Paro valley in the Bhutanese middle hills, past the sacred mountain of Chomolhari (24,000 feet), and then up to Lingshi, the administrative capital of the region. Heading northwest from Lingshi, the trail then crosses the Sinche La pass, the highest point of the trek at 16,420 feet en route to the timeless village of Laya. We will spend a layover day at Laya where the women wear unusual conical hats, and unique yak-hair clothes are the customary garb of the area. From Laya, we will gradually descend from snow leopard country into the tiger and red panda habitat of Gasa and its hot springs where we can soak away the rigors of our journey. The trek concludes at Damji (7,380 feet) where a vehicle will be waiting to take us to our hotel in Punakha.

Day 1: Paro. Our adventure begins after arriving in Paro from Bangkok. The flight into Paro on the national carrier, Druk Air, provides an introduction to the spectacular beauty of this country. In clear weather, magnificent views of the world's highest peaks including Everest give way to the lush green Paro Valley (7,992 feet) as we land. Our Bhutanese escort will greet us on arrival and take us to visit the Paro (Rinpung) Dzong, built in 1644, after which we will check into our guest house and tour the area.

Day 2: “Shakedown” hike to Taktshang Monastery. This world famous monastery is spectacularly perched 3,000 feet above the Paro Valley floor. This hike will be a good introduction to our trek as well as an opportunity to acclimate to the altitude and the terrain. Overnight: Paro.

Day 3: Drukgyal Dzong-Shana Zampa. Our trek begins with a short drive to Drukgyal Dzong, built in 1647 and now in ruins. From there, the trail climbs gently to our camp at Shana Zampa (9,557 feet). 9.3 miles, 4-6 hours, 1,020 feet elevation gain.

Day 4: Shana Zampa-Thangthangkha. Today is a long, hard day with lots of short ups and downs that are made more strenuous because of all the rock-hopping required to avoid mud holes. The trail continues its gradual climb through conifers, oaks, and rhododendron along the Paro River. Our camp for tonight will be at Thangthangkha (12,088 feet) next to a small stone shelter and a Bhutanese-style house. This stretch of trail is known for musk deer and blood pheasant sightings! 13.6 miles, 7-8 hours, 2,250 feet elevation gain.

Day 5: Thangthangkha-Jangothang. We climb today into yak country. We'll see yak lumbering across the hillsides and lounging in the meadows and meet the people who tend to these animals. Our camp will be at Jangothang (13,260 feet), from which the views of nearby Mt. Chomolhari and Jichu Drake on the Bhutan-Tibet border will be spectacular. 10.5 miles, 5-6 hours, 1,530 feet elevation gain.

Day 6:Layover day at Jangothang for day hiking, exploration at Tsophu Lake, and looking for blue sheep, lammergaiers, griffons, and maybe even signs of snow leopard!

Day 7: Jangothang-Lingshi. Today we have one of those strenuous days that makes a trip so memorable. We leave tree line behind and move through gentians, grass, and juniper bushes through Nyile La Pass at 16,040 feet. As we descend into Lingshi, we will have great views of the Lingshi Dzong, and if the weather is clear, we will also be able to view Mt. Tserim Kang (22,268 feet). The camp is at 13,153 feet, near a large stone community hall, used by both Bhutanese travelers and trekking groups. 13 miles, 6-8 hours, 2,722 feet elevation gain followed by a 2,984-foot loss.

Day 8:Lingshi-Chebisa. We begin the day by climbing up to a chorten just below Lingshi Dzong. We then enter the scenic Chebisa Valley and proceed to the camp site in a meadow opposite the Chebisa village (12,920 feet). 10 miles, 4-5 hours, 840 feet elevation gain, followed by a 1,230-foot loss.

Day 9: Chebisa-Shomuthang. Today's strenuous walk is through wild high pastures with few nomads or yaks but excellent opportunity to spot the elusive blue sheep which live near the ridge tops. We will cross Gobula Pass (14,564 feet) and then drop to the camp in a yak pasture (13,973 feet). 9 miles, 5 hours, 1,644 feet elevation gain, followed by a 591-foot loss.

Day 10: Shomuthang-Robluthang. The trail climbs from camp through white edelweiss flowers with a good view of the snow peak of Kang Bum (21,731 feet). Then we climb to Jhari La Pass (15,807 feet) from which we will probably see Mt. Gangchentag, Mt. Tserim Kang, and Chomolhari. If we are lucky, we may witness herds of takin grazing on nearby hills. We will camp in a rocky meadow at Robluthang (13,645 feet). 10 miles, 7-8 hours, 2,575 feet elevation gain, followed by a 2,162-foot loss.

Day 11: Robluthang-Limithang. We will trek upward for five hours to cross Sinche La (16,417 feet), the highest pass on the trek. The snow covered peak of Gangchentag fills the horizon to the north. Descent from the pass is on a rough, rocky trail that follows a moraine into another glacial valley. We then proceed to Limithang (13,786 feet). 9 miles, 6-7 hours, 2,772 feet gain to the pass, followed by a 2,631-foot loss.

Day 12: Limithang-Laya. Today is mostly downhill along a winding river. We will walk through Laya and camp on a high, flat bench above the east end of the village (12,464 feet). 5.5 miles, 4-5 hours, 1,180 feet elevation loss.

Day 13:Layover day in Laya. The 800 residents of this village have their own distinct customs, language and dress.

Day 14: Laya-Koina. Below the village, the trail drops to the river. There will be several small ups and downs on the trail this day and much of it will likely be muddy. Camp at Koina (10,004 feet). 10 miles, 5-6 hours, 1,837 feet elevation loss.

Day 15: Koina-Gasa Tsachu. Our day begins by crossing the bridge at Koina and then ascending to Bari La Pass (12,987 feet). After a 2,500-foot descent, the trail rounds a corner where we can finally see Gasa Dzong. We will continue walking until we reach Gasa Tsachu (hot springs) at 7,459 feet where we will spend the night. 14 miles, 7-8 hours, 2,983 feet gain to the pass, followed by a 5,510-foot loss.

Day 16: Gasa Tsachu-Damji-Punakha. After the climb from Gasa Tsachu, the trail winds through rolling hillsides. Gasa Dzong will be visible behind us. Our vehicle will meet us at Damji (7,380 feet) and take us to Punakha (4,495 feet), where we will check into our hotel, take hot showers, and sleep in real beds! 9 miles, 5-6 hours, 690 feet elevation gain/787 feet loss.

Day 17: Punakha-Thimphu. After breakfast, we visit the impressive Punakha Dzong, the winter residence of the Je Khenpo, the spiritual monastic leader in Bhutan. We then drive to Thimphu (7,600 feet). Here we can relax and tour the city or visit local shops that sell Bhutanese handicrafts.

Day 18: We spend most of the day in Thimphu to do touring and shopping after which we will drive to Paro, where it all began 18 days ago.

International air travel into Bhutan is only possible via Druk Air, the national airline of Bhutan. Participants will need to make their own travel plans to and from Bangkok. Group flight arrangements between Bangkok and Paro will be made by the group leader and the concessionaire. This round trip flight will cost approximately $800 (not included in trip cost). You must take the group flight between Bangkok and Paro. You will also require a hotel room for at least one night both before and after your Druk Air flight in Bangkok (not included in trip price).

Accommodations will be in double rooms at traditional hotels and inns. When trekking, two-person tent sharing will be the norm. Single supplements are possible at an additional price. Our food and gear will be carried by a team of ponies who will be traveling the same trails and staying at or near the same campsites. Camp staff prepare three hot meals each day; serve tea and coffee; set up and take down tents; and prepare hot water for washing every morning and on demand in the afternoons.

Breakfasts typically consist of hot or cold cereal, eggs, toast, and on the early days of the trek, fresh fruit and cheese. Every lunch and dinner includes a choice of multiple dishes, featuring both Western and Bhutanese dishes. Vegetarians are easily accommodated.

This trip is suitable for participants in very good physical condition who enjoy high altitude hiking and camping, as well as culture and natural history. Most of the hiking will be between 11,000 and 13,000 feet with four passes approximating 16,000 feet. You should be comfortable hiking up to 15 miles a day at a reasonable pace at these elevations while carrying a light daypack. Our maximum elevation gain in one day will be about 3,000 feet. While most of the trek is rated as strenuous, four days will be very strenuous and will require an early start. This is a demanding trek in terms of elevation change and altitude, as it includes over 20,000 feet of combined elevation gains and losses.

We will practice gradual acclimatization, on most days allowing for a pace that is moderate and unregimented; resting often, breathing deeply and drinking plenty of liquid to minimize the affects of altitude. Trip members may wish to consult their physicians before the trip regarding the use of Diamox, which stimulates deeper breathing and minimizes the affects of altitude.

Just as important as your being in good shape is your spirit of adventure. You should take pleasure in experiencing different cultures, be comfortable traveling with a group and enjoy multiple day tent camping trips. Above all you must be flexible and adapt easily to unpredictable weather.

Daytime temperatures will vary from 40-75 degrees Fahrenheit depending on the elevation. At the high camps, nighttime temperatures can drop below freezing. On the highest passes, we may walk on snow.
On a typical weather year, we can expect a few days of precipitation on the trek with mostly sunny days, but this is by no means a guarantee. With rain, the trails can become tricky to navigate, with slick mud and wet rocks. Additionally, rainy conditions may limit the mountain views. We will advise you before the trek on appropriate gear to bring so that you are prepared for the various conditions we may encounter.

We will discuss these and other conservation issues during the course of the trip and in meetings with government officials and conservationists.

The payment of a deposit does not confirm you as a member on the trip. Participants must be approved by the trip leader. After signing up for this trip, you will be sent a confirmation packet containing approval materials (Participant Approval Questionnaire, Medical Form, Liability Release Form). Each applicant (including those on the waitlist) must fill out these forms and promptly mail them to the trip leader. The leader will review the approval materials and notify you of your acceptance in a timely manner.

The Sierra Club accurately and fairly budgets and prices our trips. However, unforeseen costs such as devaluation of the dollar compared to other currencies and fuel surcharges assessed by our international providers, may necessitate adjustment in trip price. We will make every effort to mitigate and absorb these fees. If a price increase is necessary, however, you will have 14 days after announcement to cancel without penalty.

An avid backpacker and climber, Nancy Lashbrook's love for adventure travel and mountains first led her to the Himalayas in 2000 when she joined a trek to Kanchenjunga base camps in north-eastern Nepal. In 2001 she returned to the Himalayas to travel the remote and elusive Snowman Trek in Bhutan. Many outings and adventures later, Nancy is now absolutely thrilled to have the opportunity to share her love of remote mountain travel and her awe of the magic of Bhutan with you. E-mail: nlashbr@msn.com