Photo: Bill Harris Tigers and Timelessness: Mythic Travels in South India Highlights:
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Trip Number: 10520A Price: Deposit: $200 Capacity: 16 Leader: John O'Donnell
The Trip  Photo: Evelyn Dawson Join us on our journey through south India in search of sloth bears and Bengal Tigers. Along the way, we'll see elephants, profound religious traditions, ancient spice ports, maharaja palaces, tea plantations, and forbidding forests and mountains chock full of critters of every conceivable ilk. While our whirlwind journey focuses on wildlife, we will also immerse ourselves in the history, beliefs, customs, values, and lifestyles of those who inhabit this ancient land. The India of the south is noticeably different from the north. In the south, life is more laid-back, nurtured by balmy tropical weather and lush vegetation. This is where Hindus have sought unity with God through reincarnations, where Christians and Muslims have peacefully pursued their eternal reward through good works, and where Buddhists continue to wrestle with the problem of suffering and the meaning of existence. This trip is suitable for any adult who enjoys nature, adventure and cultural exploration. All the sites on our itinerary are well-removed from areas and provinces where unrest and political instability very occasionally occur. Most of our ground transportation is by private bus. Lodging is in stylish hotels, jungle lodges, a comfortable tented camp, a houseboat, and a maharaja hunting camp. A major objective of this trip is to experience India's incredible natural history, much of which is endangered. We will also alternately explore India's rich culture, political, environmental and religious issues. Finally, we will hopefully have an opportunity to observe tigers in their natural state and to understand the tiger's role as "top banana" in the Indian subcontinent's food chain.
 Photo: Paula Frasier Day 1: All participants should arrive in Bangalore today (or earlier.) Opportunities for touring Bangalore, sometimes referred to as the "heart of modern India," can be arranged for early arrival participants. A welcome dinner is scheduled for the early evening. Overnight: Bangalore hotel. Day 2: Early in the morning, we travel either by train or bus to Mysore, arriving in the early afternoon. Once the seat of the Maharaja of Mysore, the city has an interesting cultural and architectural history which can be explored after we check into our hotel. Mysore is famous for its silk, sandalwood, incense, and pleasant climate. Our time here should be a restful prelude to the pending excitement of the next day's first tiger safari! Overnight: Mysore hotel. Days 3 - 5: Arriving at the Kabini Jungle Lodge, an 18th century hunting camp originally built for the Maharajas of Mysore, we will get our first taste of Nagarhole National Park (a/k/a Rajiv Gandhi National Park.) Encompassing an area of nearly 2,000 square miles, the park and several adjoining protected sanctuaries are the former hunting preserve of the Maharajas. In spite of being on the edge of the Western Ghats, the terrain is fairly gentle with most of the park on a plateau at about 2,200 feet above sea level. Nagarhole National Park gives us the chance to experience what all of India was once like - seemingly endless forests, waterways, and grasslands teeming with all manner of wildlife! Highest on our list of "sought-afters," of course, is the majestic Bengal Tiger. Both tigers and leopards thrive here; however, neither are easy to find given their nocturnal nature and the general avoidance of their only enemy -- man! Nonetheless, our chances of seeing a big cat here is better than 50%. With the aid of open-backed jeeps we will traverse the park in the early mornings and late afternoons in search of any and all wildlife possibilities. Overnight: Kabini Jungle Lodge.  Photo: Paula Frasier Day 6: After a final look-around, we depart Nagarhole and the State of Karnataka and climb the seemingly vertical face of the Nilgiri Hills into the heart of the Western Ghats mountains. Our destination is the sprawling hill station town of Ooty. Located at 7,250 feet above sea level, Ooty (also known as Ootocamund or Udagamandalam) is a tea plantation community in the State of Tamil Nadu. Here we will hike into patchworks of evergreen forest interspersed with rhododendrons and magnolias (called "sholas"). Birding and/or hiking are specialty activities of this area! There are a number of endemic bird species here difficult to find anywhere else, e.g., the absolutely beautiful Black-and-orange Flycatcher, the Nilgiri Laughingthrush, and the White-bellied Shortwing. Overnight: Ooty hotel. Day 7: Today we will board the famous and incredibly scenic "Blue Mountain" train to take in spectacular mountain scenery. All told, there are 13 tunnels, 19 bridges and wild elephants along the railroad right of way. The Blue Mountain Railway has a special pinion rack system with the locomotive pushing rather than pulling the carriages. In the afternoon an optional forest hike with an environmental activist will be arranged. In the evening over dinner, we will hear about the threats to the biological integrity of the Western Ghats. Overnight: Ooty hotel. Days 8-9: On the morning of Day 8, our bus will deliver us to Parambikulam National Park in the State of Kerala where we overnight in a very comfortable tent camp with walk-in tents, beds and hot water. Through a combination of walking safaris (!) and jeeps, we will again search for elusive tigers and leopards, wild dogs, sloth bears, pangolins, and various other species. Thickly forested with stands of bamboo, sandalwood, rosewood, and teak, Parambikulam is an arborist's and botanist's delight! Overnight: Tented camp. Day 10: After breakfast, we proceed to Munnar through the Chinnar Wildlife Sanctuary -- a thorny scrub jungle with a full array of wildlife. Time permitting, we might make a stop at the Eravikulam National Park to see the endemic Nilgiri Tahr -- a mountain goat found nowhere else on the planet! Overnight: Hotel Tea Country. Day 11: Munnar is a breathtakingly beautiful place of spice plantations, pristine valleys and mountain forests. Hiking, conservation discussion, and exploration of flora and fauna are the activities of the day. Overnight: Hotel Tea Country. Days 12-13: Another long drive through the interesting countryside will bring us to the Periyar National Park. Periyar is one of the most popular of India's wildlife sanctuaries. The forest is dense and lush, teeming with all varieties of wildlife including a healthy population of tigers. (They are, however, hard to see given the tiger's natural camouflage and rainforest-like vegetation.) We will stay at a former maharaja's hunting lodge located on a lake well in the park which we will have all to ourselves with our own cook. Access to the lodge is only by boat or an approximately one mile forest walk. Elephants, antelopes, deer, monkeys, rare and beautiful birds (e.g., hornbills, trogons, and raptors of all ilk) should make this an exciting natural history adventure! Our naturalist guides are from neighboring hill tribe villages. Overnight: Periyar Wildlife Sanctuary. Day 14: Traveling towards the coast and arriving at Kottayam, we'll board private houseboats for a day long and overnight cruise through a series of idyllic waterways nestled between the hills of Cochin and the sea. The waterways are tranquil and the way of life completely unique for the boat builders, fishermen and rice farmers populating this area. Each houseboat carries four to six passengers and a crew of two to three staff who will attend to all our needs and comforts. At night, bewitched by palm trees, balmy breezes and superb southern Indian food, we should be able to look up at a spectacular, star-studded sky. Overnight: Houseboat. Day 15: After arriving in Cochin (also known as Kochi), we'll have the majority of the day to explore the city's fascinating old quarter and the colorful outdoor fish market. Walks along the narrow passages of Fort Cochin and Mattancherry should reveal Cochin's European heritage, as well as the still-present allure of the spice trade. One of the country's major port cities, Cochin hosts numerous busy ferries, large ships and gamboling dolphins following in their wake. Overnight: Cochin hotel. Day 16: After one last stroll through the historic district, participants are free to fly home anytime this afternoon from Cochin. Getting There You should plan to arrive in Bangalore, India, no later than the evening of January 10, 2010. Your flight home will be from Cochin (Kochi) through a major hub such as Mumbai (formerly known as Bombay), Bangalore, or New Delhi. The trip leaders can assist with scheduling internal India flights between major hub cities (e.g., Mumbai) and Bangalore or Cochin. A visa for entry to India will need to be obtained in advance in the USA prior to flying to India. Once you have registered for this trip, the trip leader will assist you in obtaining the necessary visa.
Our hotels will be of 3-star and 4-star quality; the eco-lodges and tent camps will be comfortable but not luxurious, allowing us access to the natural settings that we could not otherwise explore. All of our accommodations on this outing have beds, private bathrooms, running hot water, and showers. We will be eating typical south Indian cuisine -- in most cases with hot spice adjustments for those of us having delicate palates! Vegans and vegetarians fare well in India where there are probably more vegetarians than anywhere else on the planet. All meals are included with the exception of one lunch in Periyar National Park and one lunch and one dinner in Cochin. As participants will have free time to engage in optional itinerary activities at these times, they are free to eat in restaurants of their choice at their own expense for these meals.
Potential trip members should be aware of the nature and demands of adventure travel. You do not have to be in excellent physical condition to make this trip; however, there will be bumpy jeep drives on rough terrain as well as occasional long bus rides. Except for Parambikulam National Park where we will be accompanied by a ranger, our opportunities for walking will be restricted when we are in tiger habitat. Remember - the tiger is at the top of the food chain in his territory! We will be on foot otherwise for a fair amount of time each day. We are likely to have some 90-degree Fahrenheit temperatures -- especially when we are in non-forested areas. Emotional balance, flexibility, maturity, and a spirit of adventure are essential to making this an enjoyable experience. There might be some itinerary variations depending upon road conditions and train schedules.
A water purifier or filter, in conjunction with a Nalgene-type water bottle, is recommended for every one to two participants on this trip. We do not want to contribute to the problem of landfills teeming with plastic bottles! Good hiking shoes or boots, a day-pack for hikes and bus rides, and head-lamps are also required. A complete packing list will be sent out to all registered participants well in advance of the start date of the outing.
• Das, Gurcharan, India Unbound. The history of India’s rise to being an economic superpower with the accompanying socioeconomic implications. Conservation The last century has not been good for India's natural heritage. The sheer size of India's ever-increasing population -- currently the staggering sum of 1 billion people -- has led to increasingly destructive environmental practices. India has lost almost 90% of its forest and 96% of its tigers since 1900. According to recent estimates, there may be only 1,500 critically endangered Bengal tigers left in the wild. A century ago, India had more than 40,000 of them. South India's three major eastward-flowing rivers - the Godavari, Krishna, and Kaveri - originate in the Western Ghats. These rivers provide drinking water, irrigation and power to people in the states of Andhra Pradesh, Karnataka, Kerala, Maharashtra, and Tamil Nadu. Conservation International recently declared the Western Ghats a "Biodiversity Hotspot" - a region that harbors a great variety of endemic species which, at the same time, has been significantly damaged and altered by human activities. The United Nations Environmental Program weighed in, too, declaring closed-forest preservation "critical" to this area. The Sierra Club has also responded to the growing crisis. In 2000, the Club began working with Indian environmentalists to preserve the rich biodiversity of the Western Ghats. Drawing on more than a century of experience -- in particular the lessons learned campaigning for the protection of the Sierra Nevada mountains -- the Sierra Club is working with Indian environmental groups to develop effective conservation strategies for this threatened region. We will discuss and explore these strategies with some local activists during the Western Ghats portion of our itinerary. Also, a small portion of each participant's trip fee has been designated as a contribution to these conservation efforts. On this outing, we will see first-hand how overpopulation and poverty affect not just humans but the entire natural world. Perhaps nowhere else on the planet are man's impacts on the planet so readily visible -- from scant protections for water and air to deforestation, poaching and overhunting. In India, as in most of the world, conservation can only work if culture, socioeconomic realities, and the human psyche are taken into account. There is much fertile ground for discussion and many conservation conundrums to be addressed when one immerses oneself in the frothy, aromatic cauldron of one of the most fascinating and complex countries of the world - India!
This trip requires a $200 per-person deposit. An additional payment of $300 per person is due six months prior to trip departure. International trip prices are subject to change and are based on double-occupancy or group accommodations as described above. Single rooms may not be available or may cost more than the listed price. If you have any questions regarding double occupancy, please contact the trip leader. See the How to Apply for an Outing section for more details on registering for this trip and details about our Reservation and Cancellation Policy. The payment of a deposit does not confirm you as a member on the trip. Participants must be approved by the trip leader. After signing up for this trip, you will be sent a confirmation packet containing approval materials (Participant Approval Questionnaire, Medical Form, Liability Release Form). Each applicant (including those on the waitlist) must fill out these forms and promptly mail them to the trip leader. The leader will review the approval materials and notify you of your acceptance in a timely manner. The Sierra Club accurately and fairly budgets and prices our trips. However, unforeseen costs such as devaluation of the dollar compared to other currencies and fuel surcharges assessed by our international providers may necessitate adjustment in trip price. We will make every effort to mitigate and absorb these fees. If a price increase is necessary, however, you will have 14 days after announcement to cancel without penalty.
 John O'Donnell has led numerous natural history, culture-based, and trekking trips for the Sierra Club in North America, South and Central America, Africa, Australasia, and Asia (including south India.) He is an avid backcountry explorer, conservationist, birding enthusiast, and incorrigible punster. In his day job, he is a practicing psychologist. John has been searching out the many nooks and crannies of India for the past 16 years. Group adventure, personal discovery, natural history, and interpersonal experience with local people are the primary objectives of his trips. Email: nodjod@wi.rr.com  Pritpal ("Pepi") Singh Kochhar was born in the foothills of the Indian Himalayas, where he developed his love of nature and the mountains. In 1976 he moved to New York City, and his exposure to people of different cultural backgrounds sparked his love of travel. This wanderlust has contributed to his interest in contemporary foods, tastes, and smells. He is passionate about sharing his experience and knowledge of foreign customs with participants. He has led trips to India, Costa Rica, Nepal, Bhutan, Iceland, Turkey, and China. When not leading Sierra Club trips, he enjoys sailing, scuba diving, and reading about current affairs. His exposure to eastern religions will highlight many a conversation you will have with him! When in New York City, he dabbles with real estate projects. Email: pskochhar@hotmail.com General Notes About Sierra Club Trips
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