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The Trip

Some of us dream of experiencing a place that is so pristine that there are no signs of civilization as far as the eye can see. The area that we will visit in the western Brooks Range is one of those places. It does not get the media attention that other parts of Alaska receive and hopefully it will remain out of controversy. This area is home to the Western Arctic Caribou herd, a herd nearly twice the size of the more famous Porcupine Caribou herd in eastern Alaska.

We plan on starting our trip right in the traditional calving grounds of this magnificent herd. With luck we hope to see cows with their calves and, a short time later, the bulls arrive in small and large groups. The caribou are only one chapter in this story. Year-round residents also include barren ground grizzlies, wolves, and arctic fox. Muskoxen, large mammals unique to the arctic have been seen in the area. Birds that have flown from several continents to mate and raise their young will nest at our feet. During our trip the tundra will turn from winter's brown to summer's green, punctuated by a surprising variety of colorful wildflowers. The sun will not set on our trip but it will skim along the northern horizon at "night." This richness of light provides opportunities for wonderful evening strolls.

Then we will head south through a very scenic mountainous region. The route loops around and returns to the landing spot. The trip plan allows for several layover days. These layover days will allow us to explore the area without our heavy packs, or lounge around and soak in the landscape. The pace will be one that will keep us moving but allow us to stop and smell the bog rosemary.

Itinerary

Day 1: We begin the trip in Kotzebue, an old trading town on the coast of the Chukchi Sea. On the morning of June 4 we will take a bush flight over the Noatak wilderness to a landing spot near the Kokolik River. You may want to have your camera ready for these spectacular flights.

Days 2-11: We will take the first couple days to observe the activity at the calving grounds. Day hikes with light packs will be the order of the day. Wednesday or Thursday we will begin our backpack upriver toward the mountains. Even though we will have 24 hours of daylight we will keep to a relaxed routine for breakfast, breaking camp and getting on our way. Lunch will typically be on the "trail." As we traverse the tundra and notice any interesting geological or biological points of interest, we will stop for photographs and/or read the short passage about it in the "Naturalist Guide to the Arctic." By mid- to late-afternoon we will search for a camping spot. This should give enough time to set up tents and air out socks before dinner. The evenings will be free to explore the countryside or relax back at camp. Once in the mountains, we will then turn and follow the base of the ridges that form the boundary with the Noatak Preserve. A layover day is planned here to investigate this change in terrain. We will eventually make our way to a stream drainage and follow it back downstream to our landing spot.

Day 12: We will be ferried again in bush flights back over this incredible landscape to Kotzebue and enjoy the marvels and comforts of modern civilization.

Getting There

Our trip officially begins in the town of Kotzebue, in western Alaska, on June 4th. To allow for weather or baggage delays -- which, in the Arctic, is unlikely but possible -- trip members are advised to arrive in Kotzebue by the evening of June 3rd. Similarly, don't make flight reservations to leave Kotzebue before June 16th.

Accommodations and Food

All meals and snacks, from lunch on day 1 to lunch on day 12 are included in the trip price. Our vegetarian-friendly meals will be lightweight backpacking food. As usual on Sierra Club trips, all members help with cooking and cleanup chores, each person assisting for two or three days.

Trip Difficulty

This trip is rated moderately strenuous. Group gear and food may weigh 20 pounds each beyond the personal gear you will carry. With no trails and often uncertain footing, the difficulty of the hiking should not be underestimated. Good physical condition will allow participants to enjoy the trip with more comfort. Because the weather in the Arctic is unpredictable, previous backpacking experience with field-tested gear is essential. Temperatures in June can range from well below freezing to T-shirt weather. Rain is likely for some portion of the trip. If you are prepared, and can greet adverse weather as part of the adventure -- not as an ordeal -- you will enjoy this trip.

Equipment and Clothing

Trip participants are expected to furnish their own personal gear. The leaders will mail out a detailed equipment list. The Sierra Club provides group equipment including pots, cooking utensils, stoves, fuel, cooking tarp, satellite phone, bear repellant spray, repair kit, and first-aid kit.

References

Books:

• Pielou, E. C., A Naturalist's Guide to the Arctic. Highly recommended.
• Calef, George, Caribou and the Barren Lands.
• Banerjee, Subhankar, Seasons of Life and Land.
• Murie, Margaret, Two in the Far North.
• Berton, Pierre, The Arctic Grail.
• Miller, Debbie, Midnight Wilderness.
• Lopez, Barry, Arctic Dreams.
• McPhee, John, Coming into the Country.
• McGuiness, Joe, Going to Extremes.

Maps:

• The trip will be covered by two U.S.G.S. 1:250,000 maps, "Utukok River" and the "Mishiguk Mountain" maps.

Conservation

The southwest corner of the National Petroleum Reserve is critical habitat for the Western Arctic Caribou Herd. Spring calving as well as late summer forage take place in this area. Mineral extraction poses the biggest threat to the delicate balance of this Arctic ecosystem. We will explore and discuss the issues involved in the land, the wildlife, and the people of this special area.

Sierra Club National Outings is an equal-opportunity provider and will operate under permits from the Alaska Bureau of Land Management, the North Slope Borough, and the Alaska Department of Natural Resources.

Travel in Alaska and the Arctic

Sierra Club outings in Alaska and Arctic Canada are special experiences in true wilderness, but they also carry an element of risk. Trip locales are often remote, away from the amenities of civilization, including sophisticated medical care and immediate evacuation possibilities. Many of our Alaska and Arctic Canada trips now carry satellite phones, but even with this technology, communication with the outside world can be difficult and emergency assistance can be days away. Weather in Alaska and Arctic Canada is unpredictable, and inclement weather can be severe. Among other hazards are cold river and stream crossings, tidal activity, calving glaciers, the psychological effects of remoteness, and the presence of large wild animals. You're in good hands, though, so don't worry: Your trip leaders have vast experience in the Last Frontier, and they'll provide all the guidance you need.

Trip Price

See the How to Apply for an Outing section for more details on registering for this trip and details about our Reservation and Cancellation Policy.

The payment of a deposit does not confirm you as a member on the trip. Participants must be approved by the trip leader. After signing up for this trip, you will be sent a confirmation packet containing approval materials (Participant Approval Questionnaire, Medical Form, Liability Release Form). Each applicant (including those on the waitlist) must fill out these forms and promptly mail them to the trip leader. The leader will review the approval materials and notify you of your acceptance in a timely manner.

Staff

Leader:

Gary Keir has led backpacking trips in Arctic Alaska for the Sierra Club since 1997. For fun, he enjoys rock climbing, playing the guitar, ballroom dancing, flying to Paris for the weekend, and making souffles. As much as he enjoys the solitude and serenity of the landscape, he also enjoys the camaraderie of the group during these trips. Gary is a computer whiz in New York City.

E-mail: garykeir@aol.com

Co-Leader:

Donna Poggi has done backpack, mountain bike, and family trips in Alaska, and has backpacked in Nepal and the Sierra mountains. She enjoys cooking and always makes sure her participants are well fed -- and, just as importantly, that Peet's coffee is available every morning. When Donna isn't out hiking or biking she is Director of Finance at Cisco Systems in Silicon Valley.

E-mail: dpoggi@comcast.net

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General Notes About Sierra Club Trips

• Carbon Offsets
• Carpooling
• Electronic Devices
• Equipment
• How to Apply for a Trip
• Leader Gratuities
• Liability Release and Assumption of Risk
• Medical Issues
• Non-discrimination Statement
• Participant Approval
• Reservation and Cancellation Policy
• Seller of Travel Disclosure
• Travel Insurance
• Trip Feedback
• Wilderness Manners