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The Trip

Directly north of Kathmandu, Langtang is one of the closest areas to trek, yet it receives far fewer visitors than the crowded Annapurna and Everest regions. Established as Nepal's first Himalayan national park in 1976, the area includes the long Langtang Valley rising from lush, old-growth forest to the Langtang Himal along the Tibet border. Springtime brings an explosion of color as rhododendron blooms paint the hillsides with vibrant shades of red, pink, and purple while yaks dot the wide, glacial upper valley. Returning along an ancient Hindu pilgrimage route takes us to the austere, high-elevation Gosainkund Lakes. Traveling self-contained expedition-style allows us to immerse ourselves more easily into traditional local Tamang culture, which is more Tibetan than Nepali. While you hike with only a day pack, our cheerful Nepali staff carries your gear, cooks our meals, and sets up and takes down our tents, leaving you free to contemplate and enjoy this spiritual area.

Kathmandu extends a shocking welcome to new arrivals with its crowded, narrow, medieval streets and plethora of temples and colorful shops. We'll have two days to visit Swayambunath, the Monkey Temple; Bodnath, one of the world's largest stupas or Buddhist shrines; and Pashupatinath, the holiest Hindu temple in Nepal. Guided exploration of Patan and Bhaktapur, the two other ancient cities of the Kathmandu Valley, show off a time when Nepal was the most advanced in architecture and wood carving.

The rest of Nepal enjoys a quiet, rural existence that we'll appreciate as we start our trek in the foothill village of Syabrubesi. Climbing through protected forests of oak, chir pine, rhododendron, and alder, we'll be in the playground of langur monkeys. Barking deer, wild boars, red pandas, and Himalayan black bears also inhabit these forests. Ascending quickly to the upper Langtang Valley brings us to the terminus of three glaciers that form the valley's head below 23,767-foot Lantang Lirung and 22,848-foot Dorje Lakpa. We diverge our return to visit holy Gosainkund Lakes, where thousands of Hindu pilgrims come in August to bathe in their pure waters. A string of glacial lakes range from 14,000 feet to near the top of our high pass at 15,120-foot Laurebina La. The steep, rocky descent on the other side takes us through more densely blooming rhododendron forests and terraced farms and villages as we finish in the Kathmandu Valley.

While most people come to Nepal to trek on the roof of the world, they are surprised to learn that the cultures of its many ethnic groups are at least as interesting. Nepal's true treasure is the warmth and hospitality of its people, and this trek offers the opportunity to bond with our staff and experience their homeland more as a local than a tourist. The sirdar, or head guide and trek organizer, is the leader's husband of 16 years, so with their staff of extended family and villagers, the expedition feels more like one large traveling family. Indeed this is the trip of a lifetime, but the joy and friendliness of the Nepalese people will beckon you to return again and again!

Itinerary

Travel in Nepal is still truly adventurous. Although we will try to adhere to a daily itinerary, please embrace any changes that may have to be made due to weather, trail conditions, ability of the group, or the serendipity of the unexpected. This is what makes adventure travel fun and enhances your experience.

Day 1: (Arrive Kathmandu) Transfer to our hotel. We'll have an orientation about the trip, then the afternoon is free to explore the neighborhood of Thamel. Enjoy a welcome dinner of traditional Nepali fare.

Day 2: (Kathmandu) To recover from jet lag, we'll take a dawn warm-up walk up 300 feet of stairs to see Hindu and Buddhist temples and to hear beautiful Newari singing at Swayambunath, the Monkey Temple. The rest of the day is spent first in the Hindu world of Pashupatinath where we'll see sadhus, temples dedicated to Shiva and a host of other gods, and ritual funeral burnings on ghats along the Bagmati River. Then we enter the Buddhist world at Bodnath, one of the largest stupas in the world. A welcoming home for Tibetan refugees, monasteries and shops selling Tibetan and Buddhist goods circle the stupa as monks chant while doing their kora, or circumambulation of the shrine. Dinner at a fine Indian restaurant.

Day 3: (Kathmandu-Syabrubesi) We board our chartered bus with our staff and gear for an exhilarating ride through the bucolic countryside to begin our trek. The last half of the drive is on tightly winding dirt road that shows the difficulty of keeping roads maintained on steep, unstable hillsides. We reach Syabrubesi by mid-afternoon where the bus is unloaded and camp is set up above the upper Trisuli River, just below its confuence with the Langtang Khola (river). This is our first night in tents (4,820 feet).

Day 4: (Syabrubesi-Lama Hotel) We begin the day by crossing the Trisuli River on our first suspension bridge of many, then crossing the Langtang Khola as we head up the river valley. We'll keep an eye out for monkeys cavorting in the dense jungle ablaze with rhododendron blooms. In this lightly settled canyon we're likely to see flashy magpies and hear other birds singing. A steep climb of 3,300 feet past an abundance of waterfalls brings us to camp at Lama Hotel (8,135 feet) in seven hours.

Day 5: (Lama Hotel-Langtang) There's more steep climbing up the narrow canyon until at last the valley begins to open up and take on the characteristics of a classic U-shaped glacial valley. The gradient mellows upon approaching the village of Langtang (11,250 feet) where we begin to see yaks and possibly a Himalayan lynx. Langtang Lirung, 23,767 feet, rises right behind the village, which is the headquarters of Langtang National Park. Ascend 3,100 feet in six hours.

Day 6: (Langtang-Kyanjin Gompa) Langtang is the largest and last year-round settlement in the valley. With colder temperatures at higher elevations, we may find ourselves eating in dining rooms heated with yak dung. The valley continues to open up, leaving the forests behind as more high peaks become visible on the three-hour, 1,400-foot climb to Kyanjin Gompa (monastery) at 12,660 feet. We'll spend the afternoon acclimatizing with walks to the yak cheese factory, the monastery, and up on the ridges above camp for spectacular views of the icefalls tumbling down the Langtang Himal. This is camp for two nights.

Day 7: (Kyanjin Gompa) Waking to the sunlit peaks of Langtang Lirung, Dorje Lakpa (22,848 feet), and Gangchenpo (20,920 feet), we'll dayhike up the undulating path on our layover day to the head of the valley at Langshisa Kharka (meadow) at 13,450 feet, the terminus of three glaciers. The snowbound hulk of massive Pemthang Karpo Ri, 22,517 feet, dominates the skyline. We may see lammergeiers and other raptors soaring along with blooming violet-blue alpine gentians on this round-trip hike of 7-8 hours.

Days 8-9: (Kyanjin Gompa-Lama Hotel-Thulo Syabru) Returning the way we came, we'll descend in eight hours to Lama Hotel, where monkeys may distract us to watch their antics along the way. We continue down to 5,700 feet where we'll begin the long, steep climb to camp at Thulo Syabru (7,400 feet) in six hours. This village is majestically perched on a knife-edge ridge with our terraced campsite affording mountain views up the Langtang Valley. We are now on one of the pilgrimage routes to Gosainkund Lake and have split off from most of the other trekkers.

Day 10: (Thulo Syabru-Sing Gompa) A steady, steep uphill climb through oak, hemlock, and moss-draped rhododendron forests leads to a ridgetop view of the Langtang and Ganesh Himals. Monkeys play in these forests along the final, pleasant stretch of the 3,500-foot climb to Sing Gompa (10,920 feet) in five hours. Barking deer may call to us at this scenic campsite.

Day 11: (Sing Gompa-Laurebina Yak) We continue another 2,000 feet up ridges and through deep forests that are home to the endangered red panda. We enter the Gosainkund protected area, where wood fires, the killing of animals, and grazing goats are prohibited. We'll reach camp at Laurebina Yak (12,860 feet) in 3-4 hours, with time in the afternoon to spend gawking at the Himalayan panorama from the Annapurnas, Manaslu, and Ganesh Himals to unnamed peaks in Tibet and finally to Langtang Lirung. Lammergeiers may be seen circling on the high thermals, and those venturing out after dark will be rewarded with brilliant stars sparkling through jet-black skies.

Day 12: (Laurebina Yak-Gosainkund Lake) The first 900 feet of this climb are very steep up to two stupas (Buddhist shrines) with a commanding view of the Himalaya. The remaining 700 feet of the climb has more gentle ups and downs, with arrival at Gosainkund (14,400 feet) in three hours. Our camp includes a Hindu temple where a sadhu may be meditating at the holy waters of the lake. We can hike a kora (circumambulation) around the lake in the afternoon and explore other small lakes in the chain. Those with energy can hike up the ridge behind camp for phenomenal views.

Day 13: (Gosainkund Lake-Laurebina La-Phedi) This is our high-pass day going over 15,120-foot Laurebina La (pass). Starting around the lake, we pass three waterspouts with animal heads that have been built at one of the cascade inlets to the lake. Then it's a steady climb past Ganesh, Barda, and Surya Kunds (lakes) along the way. After passing the large chorten (shrine) at the pass, the descent quickly gets steep, with loose rock and icy patches. A slow, careful descent brings us to an austere, scenic camp at Phedi (12,265 feet) in 4-5 hours.

Day 14: (Phedi-Tharepati) We continue going down the steep, rocky trail with a surprising number of ridges to climb as well. Descending below Gopte, we begin a 1,100-foot climb up to Tharepati (11,940 feet), looking back at what seems like an impossible route, arriving in 6-7 hours. Perched on a high ridge, the panorama extends clear to the Khumbu, where peaks near Mt. Everest can be seen.

Days 15-17: (Tharepati-Chisopani) The next three days are spent ascending and descending -- mostly descending -- many ridges as we head down toward the Kathmandu Valley. We're greeted by the spectacle of the rhododendron bloom again as we re-enter the forests, and our ridgetop campsites open up wider, more expansive vistas from the Annapurnas to Everest. At Chisopani (7,000 feet), situated on the rim of the Kathmandu Valley and our last camp in tents, we'll celebrate our success with our hardworking staff and porters, honoring them with a party. Over these three days, we descend 4,900 feet.

Day 18: (Chisopani-Kathmandu) For our last hiking day we have one more ridge to climb before the long downhill to Sundarijal (4,430 feet) on the outskirts of Kathmandu. We pass beautiful waterfalls, rhesus monkeys, and lovely village gardens on the 3,500-foot descent in four hours. Re-entry to chaotic Kathmandu is bitterweet as it's just a short drive back to the Potala Guest House with plenty of time for hot showers and shopping before dinner.

Day 19: (Kathmandu) After breakfast we'll have a guided tour of the ancient cities of Patan and Bhaktapur, each with its own kings, temples, and Durbar Squares to show off offerings to its gods. Patan's museum is well worth visiting, and the peace and quiet in old Bhaktapur is like going back in time. We'll honor our trekking staff again at our farewell dinner at a favorite Thamel restaurant.

Day 20: (Depart Kathmandu) We'll decompress over breakfast at a restaurant serving American favorites before transferring to the airport for our flights home.

Getting There

The trip begins with pick-up from the international airport in Kathmandu. The leader will provide guidance and contact information for a recommended travel agent who can arrange flights from your home city once you are approved for the trip.

Accommodations and Food

Double-occupancy rooms in Kathmandu are included with the trip. Our hotel features rooms with private baths and hot showers. It's centrally located within walking distance of many temples and shops; plus it is staffed by friendly, English speaking folks. Although not fancy, it is clean with several lovely gardens to relax in.

On trek, we will share two-person Eureka Outfitter tents that offer plenty of room for folks and their duffels. Porters will carry them and sherpas set them up and take them down at each camp. A small amount of hot water is provided each morning for washing and a toilet tent will be set up at each camp for privacy. Boiled water and tea will be available at all meals and water purification will be provided for treating your drinking water. Buying bottled water is discouraged as the bottles are rarely recycled and end up along the trails.

Meals in Kathmandu will be in restaurants catering to western tastes and hygiene. On trek our kitchen staff prepares hot breakfasts, dinners, AND lunches. Meals feature Nepali, Tibetan, and American specialties. Nepal has a wide variety of food and every growing climate, so fresh foods may be resupplied en route. Vegetarians are easy to accommodate since dal bhat (lentils and rice) is the Nepali staple and prepared at every meal. Any other food restrictions should be indicated to the leader as far in advance as possible. Our staff is well trained in preparing meals according to western standards of hygiene.

Trip Difficulty

Any Himalayan trek should be considered moderately strenuous, meaning mostly moderate hiking with a few strenuous days and this trek is no exception. Daily elevation gains and losses could be as much as 3,500 feet on steep, rough, rocky trails. The highest mandatory altitude is 15,120 feet at Laurebina La and the highest camp is 14,400 feet. Several camps will be above 10,000 feet. All nights will be in tents. You should be in excellent physical condition to do this trek with recent hiking experience above 10,000 feet. Recommendations for an adequate conditioning regime will be provided in a future bulletin to approved trip members.

Spring is the ideal time to trek in Nepal with typically dry, clear weather. Rain is infrequent and usually only lasts a day. However, mountains create their own weather and rain, snow, or a surprise storm can happen unexpectedly anytime. Daytime temperatures of 50-75 degrees can be expected depending on elevation, and nighttime temperatures may go down to the 20s at our high camps. Ultraviolet rays from the sun are especially strong above 10,000 feet so long pants, long-sleeved shirts, and high-value SPF sunscreen and lip balm are essential.

Although porters will carry most of your gear, you will need to carry what you need for the day in a day pack weighing up to 15 pounds. You are encouraged to hike at your own pace, stopping when you wish for photography or other interests. We will have English-speaking sherpa guides hiking with us to keep us from getting lost. You should be comfortable hiking 3-4 hours in the morning and 2-3 hours in the afternoon after about an hour and a half break for lunch. Because of the rough nature and steepness of the trails, hiking poles are strongly recommended.

As important as your physical conditioning is your mental preparation. The more you familiarize yourself with Nepal before the trip, the more you will be able to absorb and enjoy once you get there. The books in the reference section would be a good starting point. Also, flexibility, patience, and a spirit of adventure are necessary. You should be comfortable traveling in close proximity with a group of people and be able to adapt easily to changing conditions. This trip will be especially enjoyable for those with an open mind to embrace new cultures and experiences.

Equipment and Clothing

A detailed equipment list will be sent to approved trip participants. Your personal gear should be packed in a soft duffel bag -- no hard-frame packs or suitcases. Duffel weight is limited to 22 pounds since each porter will carry three of these. What you carry in your day pack is not counted in your duffel weight. Tents and other trekking equipment and food is carried separately and not counted in your allotment.

You must have a passport valid for at least six months beyond the date of entry into Nepal. A Nepal visa is also required and details to apply for that will be provided later.

References

Books:

The following books should give you a feel for what the trek will be like. Your local library is also a good resource.

• Mayhew, Bradley and Joe Bindloss, Trekking in the Nepal Himalaya, 9th edition, Lonely Planet Publications.
• Mayhew, Bradley, Joe Bindloss, and Stan Armington, Nepal, 7th edition, Lonely Planet Publications.
• Moran, Kerry, Moon Handbook Nepal, Avalon Publishing.
• Nepal, Insights Guides, APA Production/Prentiss Hall.
• Herzog, Maurice, Annapurna, The Lyons Press, 1997.

Maps:

Maps of our trekking area will be distributed in Nepal. Nelles Maps' Nepal is a good map of the whole country.

Conservation

Ninety-six percent of Nepal's fuel energy comes from wood. Since Nepal first opened her doors to tourism, massive deforestation has occurred, resulting in the loss of half of the national forest reserves. The rapidly expanding population also demands more and more space to grow food, and these two factors have resulted in a serious problem. It is said that Nepal's biggest export is the soil carried down its rivers to India each year. In certain areas the environment is being taxed to the limit, and we will have an opportunity to observe this problem firsthand.

Sierra Club outings to Nepal are doing their best not to contribute to this problem. In Kathmandu, our hotel uses solar energy to heat water, and on the trek we use small kerosene stoves to cook on. Do not expect an evening campfire. We try to lessen our impact in other ways as well. Our practice of not bringing unnecessary gear and not burning kerosene to heat luxurious amounts of washing water cuts down drastically on the number of porters needed -- while still keeping individual porter loads to a reasonable weight limit. Other well-known trekking companies sometimes employ literally three times the number of porters we do, a practice that has negative impacts on the remote areas we'll visit.

Langtang National Park works with the people who live in the area. The Park practices a multiple land-use method of resource management to combine environmental protection with sustainable community development. Traditional subsistence activities are woven into a framework of sound resource management, supplemented by small-scale conservation and alternative energy projects to minimize the impact of tourists and upgrade the local standard of living. We will be visiting the Park headquarters on trek to see firsthand how responsible tourism and resource management is improving the quality of life for the local people as well as the environment.

Besides observing deforestation, overgrazing, and Kathmandu's pollution, you will also hike through pristine countryside and breathe clean air. The people you meet on the trek are feeding themselves without the use of herbicides and pesticides. The Nepalese people have a positive spirit and attitude, and are learning to cope with the problems of the 21st century -- and to understand the successes and failures of the modern world. It will become painfully clear how luxurious our own lifestyle really is compared to that of the overwhelming majority of the world's people, bringing into question our inequitable consumption of the world's precious resources.

Your Western viewpoint will force you to question some of what you see, while your experience in Nepal will be close enough to the land and people that, if you are perceptive and wise, you will learn much beyond your formal education. People from first- and third-world countries have much to learn from one another. Hopefully, these experiences will make us better world citizens and involve us actively in the search for a balanced, equitable, and sustainable way of life for all of us on this planet.

Trip Price

This trip requires a $200 per-person deposit. An additional payment of $300 per person is due six months prior to trip departure. International trip prices are subject to change and are based on double-occupancy or group accommodations as described above. Single rooms may not be available or may cost more than the listed price. If you have any questions regarding double occupancy, please contact the trip leader.

See the How to Apply for an Outing section for more details on registering for this trip and details about our Reservation and Cancellation Policy.

The payment of a deposit does not confirm you as a member on the trip. Participants must be approved by the trip leader. After signing up for this trip, you will be sent a confirmation packet containing approval materials (Participant Approval Questionnaire, Medical Form, Liability Release Form). Each applicant (including those on the waitlist) must fill out these forms and promptly mail them to the trip leader. The leader will review the approval materials and notify you of your acceptance in a timely manner.

The Sierra Club accurately and fairly budgets and prices our trips. However, unforeseen costs such as devaluation of the dollar compared to other currencies and fuel surcharges assessed by our international providers may necessitate adjustment in trip price. We will make every effort to mitigate and absorb these fees. If a price increase is necessary, however, you will have 14 days after announcement to cancel without penalty.

Staff

Melinda Goodwater went on her first trek to Nepal in 1990 and loved it so much she returned 5 months later. She began leading treks there with her future Nepalese husband in 1992 and lived there through much of the 1990's. She has led over 90 Sierra Club outings everywhere from Alaska, the Sierra, and Rockies, to the desert Southwest. Timesharing between the U.S. and her Nepalese family gives Melinda an insight into the people and culture of Nepal not easily gleaned otherwise. Along with years of experience leading trips in remote and high-altitude situations, Melinda is also a Wilderness First Responder with 80 hours of first aid training. She welcomes you to join her Nepalese trekking family.

E-mail: mgoodwater@sbcglobal.net

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General Notes About Sierra Club Trips

• Carbon Offsets
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• How to Apply for a Trip
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• Medical Issues
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• Participant Approval
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