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The Trip

On the Tibetan Plateau, in the great Himalayan rain shadow, lies Dolpo, a legendary Ba-Yul or "Hidden Land," geographically cut off from the rest of the world by a barrier of high mountains, deep gorges, and thick forests. Our 30-day trek will allow us to explore this remarkable place, where we’ll find a thriving and undiminished traditional Tibetan culture -- their villages possibly the highest on earth. En route we’ll pass some of the most majestic mountains in the world, including Dhaulagiri and the remote Kanjirobas.

Dolpo became known to the West after Tibetologists Giuseppe Tucci and David Snellgrove published accounts of their journeys through Dolpo in the mid-1950s. In 1973, zoologist George Schaller obtained special permission to enter Dolpo to study the Himalayan blue sheep, accompanied by Peter Matthiessen, who sought the snow leopard. However outside visitors to Dolpo, especially to Upper Dolpo, have been few in number. Most have been deterred by complicated logistics, the topography, or by government restrictions. In an attempt to preserve the unique culture and ecosystems found here, the number of visitors allowed in remains strictly limited.

Our journey through Dolpo will take us across the grain of the land like a slow roller coaster for about 300 miles. April and May are ideal months since the monsoon has not yet begun, the skies should be clear, daylight hours long, birds and flowers abundant -- prickly blue poppies, the unusual androsaces, and sleek anemones to name a few. We will have many high passes to cross on this route, the highest at an elevation of approximately 18,250 feet. If you are looking for a trek through verdant and comforting alpine scenery, this is not it. We will be hiking through a mostly treeless and wind-swept desert landscape of implausible gorges, high passes, and enormous vistas, desolate in its immensity. This is no tourist tea-house trek; it is remote, rugged, unspoiled, inspiring, and unforgettable -- arguably the best trek in the Himalaya.

Itinerary

Days 1-2: Kathmandu (4,400 feet). Arrive and transfer to our hotel, then spend the afternoon around Bodnath, the largest Buddhist stupa in the world. We’ll visit the gompas (monasteries) in the area. Very early next morning climb up to the Swyambunath temples, then after breakfast, continue on to Pashupatinath and medieval Bhaktapur. In the afternoon, we'll finalize preparations for the trek.

Day 3: Kathmandu - Pokhara (3,000 feet). We will board our chartered bus early for a seven-hour drive to Pokhara, situated on Phewa Lake. We'll arrive by early afternoon, with plenty of time to explore.

Day 4: Pokhara - Marpha (8,750 feet). In the early morning, weather permitting, we will take a twin-otter flight up the Kali Gandaki gorge between Annapurna (26,538 feet) and Dhaulagiri (26,788 feet) to the Jomsom airstrip. We'll then hike about one hour downhill to the charming town of Marpha. There we'll meet our trekking staff, who will have brought all our gear up by road.

Days 5-6: Marpha - Dangorjung (10,600 feet). Early this morning we will trek back up the windy Kali Gandki Valley to Eklobatti, where we leave the river behind and begin ascending to the northwest. We'll make camp at the village Dangorjung, with its small red-walled Buddhist temple and rows of ancient cottonwoods. We will stay here for two nights of acclimatization.

Day 7: Dangorjung - yak kharka (13,400 feet). Continuing up steeply, we will cross our first pass of note (14,200 feet) -- from there we can enjoy views of the Annapurna area, the Kali Gandaki gorge, Kagbeni, and to the northeast, the entire kingdom of Mustang. Drop from the pass to a meadow, and to camp by mid-afternoon. We may take a second night here for acclimatization.

Day 8: Yak kharka - Sangdak (12,550 feet). The route turns west and we will cross another pass (about 14,600 feet), then drop to make an early camp on the edge of our first Tibetan-style village, Sangdak, "the gateway to Dolpo." It clings picturesquely to a cliff above the Chalung gorge.

Days 9-10: Sangdak - base camp (13,900 feet). Leaving Sangdak, the trail floats over a small pass before descending steeply into the Chalung gorge to cross the river on a bridge. The canyon is reminiscent of those in the American southwest. Climbing out of the gorge after lunch, we will make our way to our "base camp" for the upcoming major passes, situated in a welcoming little juniper forest. We will stay here two (or three) nights as necessary.

Day 11: Base camp - Thasan Chu (16,600 feet). We'll have two passes to cross today, so we'll be on the trail by 6 a.m. Swirling mists clear as make our way to the top of the first, the Khog La (16,700 feet). Beyond the pass, it will be a slight descent to a long basin, where we'll stop for an early lunch before continuing over the Touje La (18,250 feet -- our highest altitude of the trek). We should reach its wind-swept top after a few more hours, gaining magnificent views of Dhaulagiri and Tukuche Peak to the south. Here we bisect the Dhaulagiri range and also cross the continental divide, leaving behind the Indian subcontinent and stepping onto the great Tibetan plateau. We have entered Dolpo. The long descent is gentle, and we'll continue down to camp alongside the Thasan River (chu).

Day 12: Thasan Chu - confluence of Tsharka Chu (14,400 feet). This is an open and wild landscape -- a new world of "remote peaks crowned by remoter snows" (George Schaller). The intensity of the geology is profound; you can easily see the uplift of the Asian plate being pushed from below by India. By late-afternoon we'll drop from the plateau down to the main river, crossing it on a bridge. With drokpa (nomads) camping nearby, we'll settle down for the night too.

Day 13: Confluence - Tsharka (14,100 feet). The trail gently follows the river and soon the emerald green fields of Tsharka village will come into view -- in stark contrast to the rocky desert slopes that surround it. The Dolpopa (inhabitants of Dolpo) refer to Tsharka as "the edge of the world," and you may recognize it from scenes in Eric Valli’s film "Himalaya." We will arrive with plenty of time to pay visits to the two gompas, Buddhist and Bon, representing the two religions of Dolpo.

Day 14: Tsharka - Panzang Valley (15,000 feet). At the top of the pass beyond Tsharka (16,600’) the landscape in all directions is tremendous -- behind is the imposing Dhaulagiri massif, and to the north are endless exotic peaks. We'll descend into the Panzang Valley and camp alongside the river.

Day 15: Panzang Valley - Taraka Sumdo (13,800 feet). Following the river north, we will continue downstream in the ever-widening valley. The Panzang is one of the four main valleys that comprise Upper Dolpo -- the others being Tarap, Nangkhong, and Tsharka.

Day 16: Taraka Sumdo - Polde (14,450 feet). Rising to the east of us is the sacred mountain of Kula, which is also known for its medicinal plants. It has a pilgrim trail circling it (the Kula Ri). We will ascend to join it, and follow part of this traditional nekhor, then descend to Balung temple and the village Polde.

Day 17: Polde - Tinkyu (13,500 feet). Hiking downstream to the village of Tinkyu will take less than two hours; the valley is a wide glacier-cut trough, carpeted with short grass. As usual, there won't be a tree in sight. Tinkyu sits at the meeting point of this valley and the Panzang (now about a half-mile across). It is a major village, with an old fort, many prayer walls, and two gompas.

Day 18: Tinkyu - Shimen (12,600 feet). Past Tinkyu, the gorge narrows considerably, and 10 miles downstream we will arrive at the prosperous village of Shimen -- its terraced buckwheat fields and little groves of willow are a welcome sight. We'll visit the old gompa perched above the town.

Day 19: Shimen - Mu (14,000 feet). Heading up a side valley, we will turn to cross a steep ridge to the north, bypassing the main gorge, which has become a wild and precipitous place. From the pass, the Mu La (16,600 feet), the views across to Tibet are exhilarating. This is an extremely interesting, wildlife-rich area; we'll watch for herds of blue sheep, and signs of musk deer, Himalayan fox, and snow leopard. We'll then descend to the settlement of Mu.

Day 20: Mu - Dora Sumdo (12,120 feet). The side drainage we follow eventually returns to the main river canyon. On the 2010 trek it was here where the group had an unbelieveably lucky sighting of a snow leopard -- drinking at the stream, stretching, rolling in the dust, and eventually disappearing over the far ridge. Onward we'll go to Nyisal, and then Yangtsher, one of Dolpo's most important monastery complexes. It appears on a platform about 300 feet above the river, surrounded by prayer walls, unmistakable with its nine great chortens. We may camp here, or farther along the river at Dora Sumdo (12,120 feet).

Day 21: Dora Sumdo - Above Karang (14,700 feet). The next day, we'll continue on to explore the impressive village Karang, nestled in a gentle upland valley. Camp will be made in a high meadow some 500 feet above the village, making the next day over the of pass a little easier.

Day 22: Above Karang - Bijer (12,641 feet). The next morning we will hike steadily up through a wilderness of rocks and scree to cross the Yeng La (17,717 feet). To the south rises Mukpo Rong, or "Purple Mountain," which dominates the entire area and is the home of a local mountain deity. The descent is not steep, but it is long; Bijer finally appears late in the afternoon, some 5,000 feet lower than the pass. It is a large village with a very impressive health post, one of the most advanced in Dolpo.

Day 23: Bhijer - Tora (14,827 feet). A few hours' walk brings us to Samling, the oldest Bon monastery in Dolpo, built in an isolated position high above the precipitous gorge. After visiting, our rocky, flower-strewn path ascends from the gompa, crossing the western flanks of Mukpo Rong, and continues on a few hours to Tora, an open meadow camp used by herders in the area.

Day 24: Tora - Shey (14,300 feet). Today we will cross two small passes, all along admiring contorted cliffs of sacred Crystal Mountain, which rise to the east. Descend to Shey village and make camp.

Day 25: Layover at Shey. Today we'll hike a few hours to visit the remote hermitage Tsakang, made famous by Matthiessen in his book 'The Snow Leopard.' It is beautifully built Anasazi-like into the cliff face -- here the air, light, and sound have a rarified clarity that is like no other place on earth.

Day 26: Shey - Stream camp beyond pass (13,750 feet). Leaving Shey we will ascend steeply to the Kang La (17,670 feet) to cross back over the continental divide. Snow is likely on our descent. Straight ahead lies the monumental, snow-covered northern face of the Kanjirobas -- imposing and still. The descent is long, at the end of this demanding day we will make camp in a meadow, alongside a stream.

Day 27: Stream camp - north shore Phoksumdo lake (11,900 feet). As we loose elevation, trees eventually make their appearance -- beautiful Himalayan birch with their spring green leaves. The valley broadens and suddenly appears the amazing site of deep and beautiful Phoksumdo lake. We camp on the north shore, under the birches.

Day 28: North shore of Phoksumdo Lake - Ringmo (11,900 feet). The trail around the large lake no longer bears resemblance to the treacherous one described by Matthiessen and Schaller (or as seen in the film "Himalaya"!); it simply climbs up about 1,000 feet above the water and undulates along, but it is not dangerous. From this vantage point, the view of the lake is unsurpassed. The blue is like no other, and the depth almost unfathomable. We will make camp on the southern shore, a 10-minute walk from the thriving village of Ringmo. Coming from the barren north, the green of the pines and junipers and the blue of the lake seem almost surrealistic.

Days 29-30: Ringmo - Dunai (7,000 feet). We'll leave the lake along its outflow stream, the Suli Gad. There will be a roar in the distance, then it appears -- a massive 900-foot waterfall, the biggest in Nepal. A steep zigzag path descends alongside the falls. Continuing downstream, we'll stop to visit the thriving Tapriza boarding school, established specifically for Bon children. For about two days, we will follow the turquoise Suli Gad, passing through thick forests (some of giant red cedar). Finally, the Thulo Bheri River will come into view, and we enter Dunai -- the biggest town since we left Jomsom a month ago. It’s an interesting place, but also a little shocking -- radios, electric lights, rubbish heaps. Far behind us are the flower-covered mountains of Dolpo!

Day 31: Dunai - Jufal (8,700 feet). A morning’s walk will bring us to Jufal, the location of the steeply inclined STOL airfield. We make camp here, as our flight will be in the early morning. This last evening we will have a party with our porters and staff who have been with us for 30 days.

Days 32-34: We have built in extra "buffer" days that will be used during the trek, as needed.

Day 35: Jufal - Kathmandu. We will depart in our charter twin otter plane, landing in Pokhara. From Pokhara, we'll fly to Kathmandu on a regularly scheduled flight, arriving by mid-day.

Days 36-37: Kathmandu. As there are possible flight delays returning from Jufal, these two days will serve as a buffer, but we'll most likely be able to spend them sightseeing around the Kathmandu Valley. On our last evening in Kathmandu, we will have a farewell dinner party.

Day 38: Departure.

Getting There

You will make your own flight arrangements to and from Nepal; the trip leader will provide contact information for a recommended travel agent.

Accommodations and Food

Hotels on this trip are not five-star, but they are clean and comfortable, and you will have private baths with hot (most of the time) water, heated by solar power. On our trek we will camp in roomy two- or three-person dome-style tents, which will be set up at each camp by the staff. You will be expected to share your tent and your hotel room with one other person.

All meals are provided. In town, breakfast will be at the hotel, while lunch and dinner will be in restaurants. On the trek, our kitchen staff is truly amazing, and they are well trained in American preferences and standards of hygiene. Vegetarians are warmly accommodated. If you have any dietary requirements, be sure to discuss these with the leader well in advance.

Boiled water and tea will always be available for drinking, and you will also be provided with a plentiful supply of Micro-pur tablets for water purification. Hot water is a precious commodity in Nepal; a small quantity for washing will be supplied, but do not expect copious amounts. Kerosene for heating water is heavy; in addition, we need to do what we can to lessen our burden on the scarce resources.

Trip Difficulty

This trip is non-technical and suitable for anyone in excellent physical condition who loves to hike and would enjoy camping out in a very remote setting for an extended period (30 days). Most of the hiking will be above 13,000 feet. We will cross 12 passes -- six of which lie between 16,500 feet and 17,800 feet, and one pass (the highest point on the trek) at 18,250 feet. Our highest camp will be at about 16,600 feet. You should feel comfortable hiking about 10-12 miles per day at these elevations on very steep rocky trails while carrying a day pack of approximately 15-20 pounds. The maximum altitude gain in one day is about 4,350 feet, and maximum loss in one day about 5,000 feet. Because of the length, remoteness, and high elevations involved, this is a strenuous, serious, and challenging trip.

Good physical conditioning is essential to your enjoyment of the trek. The best way to get in shape for this trip (in addition to leading an active life year-round) is to go on frequent hikes -- up and down hills, carrying some weight, and wearing the boots you'll take on the trip. In addition to this, a dedicated, endurance-building cardiovascular conditioning program will prepare you adequately.

Just as important as your being in good shape is your spirit of adventure. You should take pleasure in experiencing a very different culture in an extremely remote setting and be comfortable traveling with a group. You must be flexible and adapt easily to unpredictable weather and primitive conditions. In addition, medical forms need to be completed by all trip members, in conjunction with an up-to-date physical exam. Leader approval is required.

Equipment and Clothing

You must have a passport valid for at least six months beyond the date of entry into Nepal. The trip leader will supply a specific and detailed equipment list that is unique to this outing. Any questions about the suitability of equipment should be addressed to the trip leader.

Your personal gear should be packed in a duffel bag, and will be carried by porters. Duffel weight is limited to 29 pounds; extra belongings can be carried in your daypack. Group equipment, tents, all kitchen gear, and food are provided and carried separately -- these not part of your weight allotment. Because of the altitudes encountered on the trek, a Gamow Bag (a portable hyperbaric chamber to aid in the treatment of altitude sickness) will be carried. The leader will have a satellite phone, for emergencies only.

References

Books:

• Mayhew, Bradley and Joe Bindloss, Trekking in the Nepal Himalaya, Lonely Planet.
• Snellgrove, David, Himalayan Pilgrimage, Shambhala, Boston.
• Matthiessen, Peter, The Snow Leopard, Viking Penguin, New York.
• Schaller, George, Stones of Silence, University of Chicago Press.
• Valli, Eric, and Diane Summers, Dolpo, Hidden Land of the Himalayas, Aperture, NJ.
• Jest, Corneille, Tales of the Turquoise, Snow Lion, Ithaca, NY.
• Bauer, Kenneth M., High Frontiers, Columbia University Press, NY.
• Baumer, Christoph, Bon: Tibet’s Ancient Religion, ADEVA, Graz.
• Snellgrove, David, Four Lamas of Dolpo, Himalayan Bookseller, Kathmandu.
• Kind, Marietta, Mendrub: A Bonpo Ritual for the Benefit of All Living Beings, WWF Nepal.
• Hillard, Darla, Vanishing Tracks, Mandala Book Point, Kathmandu.
  

Conservation

Ninety-six percent of Nepal's fuel energy comes from wood. Since Nepal first opened her doors to tourism, massive deforestation has occurred, resulting in the loss of half of the national forest reserves. The rapidly expanding population also demands more and more space to grow food, and these two factors have resulted in a serious problem. It is said that Nepal's biggest export is the soil carried down its rivers to India each year.

Sierra Club outings to Nepal are doing their best not to contribute to this problem. In Kathmandu, our hotel uses solar energy to heat water, and on the trek we use small kerosene stoves for cooking. Do not expect an evening campfire. We try to lessen our impact in other ways as well; our practice of not bringing unnecessary gear and not burning kerosene to heat luxurious amounts of washing water cuts down drastically on the number of porters needed, while still keeping individual porter loads to a reasonable weight limit.

We will learn about organizations that assist the Dolpopa in their process of defining and controlling their own development, while preserving their environment and maintaining their heritage and traditions. A visit to the locally initiated and operated Tapriza school, founded 12 years ago for Bon children with those same goals in mind, will be a highlight of the trip. Learning of the work of the Snow Leopard Conservancy will be another.

Pockets of ancient cultures and unique natural environments have survived intact in this remote corner of Nepal. The Nepalese have a positive spirit and attitude, and are examining the successes and failures of the modern world. It will become painfully clear how luxurious our own lifestyle really is compared to that of the overwhelming majority of the world's people, bringing into question our inequitable consumption of the world's precious resources.

Trip Price

This trip requires a $200 per-person deposit. An additional payment of $300 per person is due six months prior to trip departure. International trip prices are subject to change and are based on double-occupancy or group accommodations as described above. Single rooms may not be available or may cost more than the listed price. If you have any questions regarding double occupancy, please contact the trip leader.

See the How to Apply for an Outing section for more details on registering for this trip and details about our Reservation and Cancellation Policy.

The payment of a deposit does not confirm you as a member on the trip. Participants must be approved by the trip leader. After signing up for this trip, you will be sent a confirmation packet containing approval materials (Participant Approval Questionnaire, Medical Form, Liability Release Form). Each applicant (including those on the waitlist) must fill out these forms and promptly mail them to the trip leader. The leader will review the approval materials and notify you of your acceptance in a timely manner.

The Sierra Club accurately and fairly budgets and prices our trips. However, unforeseen costs such as devaluation of the dollar compared to other currencies and fuel surcharges assessed by our international providers may necessitate adjustment in trip price. We will make every effort to mitigate and absorb these fees. If a price increase is necessary, however, you will have 14 days after announcement to cancel without penalty.

Staff

Leader:

Cheryl Parkins has been leading treks regularly in the Nepal, Bhutan, and India Himalaya since 1988 -- and has unavoidably developed a deep love of and connection to the region and its cultures; but most particularly to Dolpo. Since its inception in 1997, she has served on the Board of the non-profit organization Friends of Dolpa, which partners directly with indigenous people to improve education and promote cultural and ecological preservation in the region. She hasn't quite stopped looking for those yeti footprints -- but mostly concentrates on snow leopard these days.

Our Nepali guides, besides showing us the route, pitch the tents, cook the food, and are responsible for supervising the camps and porters. The staff is comprised of many different ethnic groups, but primar-ily Rai, Tamang, Gurung, and Sherpa. A more cheerful, hardworking crew, and finer traveling companions, is impossible to imagine.

E-mail: cparkins@earthlink.net

Assistant Leader:

Ellen Stein continues on her quest for new and exciting travel experiences. As a San Francisco Firefighter/EMT she enjoys the challenges of running into unique and unpredictable situations, but prefers leading groups into exotic locations. She finds travel similarly inspiring on the Darwinistic shores of the Galapagos, the tiger-laden hills of India, and the heights of the Nepal Himalaya. Her hobbies include almost every sport -- excluding those which require minimal activity. After her last trip to India, she has gained a new passion for birds.

E-mail: sfskyway@hotmail.com

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General Notes About Sierra Club Trips

• Carbon Offsets
• Electronic Devices
• Equipment
• How to Apply for a Trip
• Leader Gratuities
• Liability Release and Assumption of Risk
• Medical Issues
• Non-discrimination Statement
• Participant Approval
• Reservation and Cancellation Policy
• Seller of Travel Disclosure
• Travel Insurance
• Trip Feedback