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Mongolian Trekking Adventure and Kazakh Eagle Hunters

August 7-24, 2012

Mongolian Trekking Adventure and Kazakh Eagle Hunters

Trip Number: 12710A
Price: $4,895 (11-14)
          $5,575 ( or fewer)
Deposit: $200
Capacity: 14
Staff: Kern Hildebrand

Highlights:

  • Hike in the Altai-Sayan, an empire of glacier, snowfield, lake, canyon, dry valley, forest, steppe, desert, river, and marsh
  • Visit Mongolian and Kazakh nomads in their gers
  • Inspect Bronze Age petroglyphs and carved stone men from the 7th to 9th centuries

Includes:

  • All in-country transportation
  • All meals, admissions, tents, guides/interpreters, and gratuities
  • Hotel accommodations in Ulaan Baatar

The Trip

Unfortunately, this trip has been cancelled. If you have questions, please contact us.

Mongolian Trekking Adventure and Kazakh Eagle Hunters
Photo: Kern Hildebrand

Mongolia, sandwiched between Russia and China, is four times the size of Montana, to which it bears a great resemblance. The Mongolian landscape of rolling grasslands, abundant rivers, lakes, and snowy mountain ranges reminds the visitor of our own Rocky Mountains and prairie. We visit a region that includes the glaciated mountains known as the Five Kings, whose individual peak names translate to Cold, Friendship, Herder, Cradle, and Eagle. With either horses or camels as our pack animals, we hike over rugged terrain, covering alpine meadows, lichen-covered rocks, lush tundra, deep forest, and open steppe.

Mongolian culture revolves around livestock -- all good nomads have some of each of the tavan hoshuu mal or "five essential animals": horse, cow, camel, sheep, goat. The animal that makes nomadic herding possible is the horse and Mongolians are some of the world’s finest horsemen. Horses provide mobility and speed to link households many miles apart. From the back of a horse, Genghis Khan built the world’s largest land empire. We spend time with Mongolian and Kazakh nomads and learn about the role of the "five essential animals" in their very survival. Mongolians, and nomadic cultures generally, are known for their elaborate and unconditional hospitality toward travelers.

From the Mongolian point of view, Genghis Khan is a misunderstood and often maligned hero. The people and nations he defeated recorded the histories of his conquests and he is generally perceived as bloodthirsty, ruthless, and cruel. In fact, Genghis was a brilliant strategist and visionary whose cruelty was no worse than was typical in the 13th century. In Mongolia, Genghis is a source of universal pride. Today you see portraits of Genghis Khan on the currency that you may optionally use to purchase Genghis beer.

In 1991, in Suhkbaatar Square, Mongolia’s own version of Tiananmen Square, hunger strikers in subzero temperatures demanded the Communist government allow multi-party elections and other reforms. Unlike their Chinese counterparts, the Mongolian government agreed with that powerful expression by its citizens and since that time, Mongolia has been working hard to transform its political and economic systems. Mongolians are very pro-American.

Itinerary

Mongolian Trekking Adventure and Kazakh Eagle Hunters
Photo: Kern Hildebrand

Day 1: After arriving in Ulaan Baatar (UB), we'll transfer to our hotel and gather for a city orientation. Overnight: hotel.

Day 2: Today we will enjoy a full day of guided sightseeing in UB, visiting Gandan Monastery, the largest in UB; the Zaisan Memorial, which overlooks the city; the Museum of Natural History; and attending the Tumen Ekh folklore performance. Overnight: hotel.

Day 3: We'll depart UB and fly to Ulgii, located in the far west of Mongolia at an altitude of 5,610'. There we'll meet our local guides and head out on a dirt track drive toward the Altai Tavan Bogd National Park ranger station. Overnight: camp.

Day 4: The Mongol Altai Mountain Range stretches from west down to the south of Mongolia. The climate in this high mountain country can be extreme, since it's above the tree line. There's sparse vegetation giving the surrounding landscape a barren appearance. Very few species have adapted to these harsh conditions and tundra, lichen-covered rocks, alpine meadows, and high-mountain swamps characterize this area. Brown bears as well as snow leopards, or their footprints, are occasionally seen. It's here where we start our 11-day trek with a hike toward a camp on lush alpine tundra beside 12-mile long Potanin Glacier’s lateral moraine. Today's hike is of medium difficulty over rocky terrain, gravel, and loose and/or uneven ground. We hike through alpine meadows and rolling hills up to approximately 9,000 ft. Overnight: camp.

Mongolian Trekking Adventure and Kazakh Eagle Hunters
Photo: Kern Hildebrand

Day 5: Today we'll hike toward Tavan Bogd Peaks, which consists of five individual summits and is located at the meeting point of the Mongolian, Chinese, and Russian borders. Camp at approximately 10,000 ft. at the foot of Malchin Peak, 13,244 ft. This day will offer an optional hike toward the peak. The hike offers tremendous views over Russia to the north and glaciated peaks of Altai Tavan Bogd Mountain to the south. Those not hiking toward the peak may stay in or go on short hikes from camp. Overnight: camp.

Day 6: We will hike down through the heart of Altai Tavan Bogd Mountains toward Aral Tolgoi village and the Tsagaan Gol River campsite. The river drains the Potanin and Alexander Glaciers. Overnight: camp.

Days 7-8: We will hike via Ibex Lake to Shiveet Uul. Overnight: camp.

Days 9-10: We will hike into the Tsagaan Us Gol area. Tsagaan Us or "white water" refers to flows from the Tavan Bogd glaciers that are milky white due to suspended rock powder eroded by the glaciers. Overnight: camp.

Day 11: Today we will hike to Aral Tolgoi, a small village near Khoton Lake. These lakes lay in glacial depressions. We will meet our vehicles and drivers, then camp near Khoton Lake. Overnight: camp.

Day 12: We will continue hiking toward Sirgal, a small village near Khurgan Lake. As we descend down the Tavan Bogd Mountains, the elevation drops down to 6,000 ft and the terrain becomes easier, although occasional tough parts can be expected. Overnight: camp.

Mongolian Trekking Adventure and Kazakh Eagle Hunters
Photo: Kern Hildebrand

Days 13-15: We will transfer to Khargantiin Gol. Only in Western Mongolia can you meet Kazakh Eagle Hunters. Since the season for small mammal hunting is November-February, they won’t be hunting during our visit. However, this is the time of the year when eagles are well fed and taken care of. We camp near a local hunting family. During the day we spend time with these Kazakh families, learning about their lives and customs, and, of course, meeting their eagles. Overnight: camp.

Day 16: Today we will drive to Ulgii, then explore the town. Overnight: camp.

Day 17: We'll return to UB by way of plane. Depending on potential flight delays, we may have time to sightsee and shop in UB. In the evening, we'll gather for our farewell dinner. Overnight: hotel.

Day 18: After breakfast, we'll transfer to the airport and say our goodbyes.

Getting There

The trip begins with dinner and lodging on August 7, in Ulaan Baatar. This means that you will need to leave the U.S. by at least August 5, as a day is lost en route due to the International Date Line. The most convenient routing is through Seoul, Korea. Travel through Beijing is a bit more involved, but also possible. The leader will have advice for you about your air arrangements. You will be met at the airport upon your arrival in Ulaan Baatar. The trip ends with breakfast and your airport transfer on August 24.

Accommodations and Food

All meals are provided -- the first is dinner on August 7 and the last is breakfast on August 24. Vegetarians can be accommodated though vegetarian food options may be limited. Hotel accommodation is provided on August 7, 8, and 23. All other nights are spent camping in shared two-person tents, which are provided. Limited single-supplement accommodations may be available.

Trip Difficulty

Mongolian Trekking Adventure and Kazakh Eagle Hunters
Photo: Kern Hildebrand

The area of our 11 days of hiking will be in mountains, where we will go up to over 10,000 feet in elevation. All trip participants must come already experienced at these elevations, in good health and excellent physical condition, and prepared to hike up to 10 miles each day over rocky terrain. Elevation changes may be over 2,000 feet up and/or down on any given day. This pre-trip preparation is for your enjoyment of the trip, and for your personal safety as well as the safety of the group. For those who are well prepared, this will be a physical journey, during which you will have the time and energy to drink in all of your spectacular natural surroundings and to be enriched by your cultural interactions. Talk with the leader if you have any questions about your abilities.

We anticipate warm days of 50-75 degrees while hiking in Mongolia. Winter temperatures in this region are extremely cold, down to minus 70 degrees. During our visit, summer days can be warm and calm -- even hot -- but snow might fall during any month. As in all mountain travel, there is the daily possibility of thundershowers during the afternoon. The nights are clear and cold, perhaps down to the high 20s. There is always a chance of precipitation. We will carry our raingear in our day packs at all times, along with synthetic pile or wool garments that, if need be, will dry quickly and keep you warm even while wet. Pack horses or camels will carry our camp gear and equipment.

Equipment and Clothing

In addition to normal camp clothing ,you will need your own sleeping bag, pad, well-broken-in-hiking boots, and quality rain protection (parka and rain pants, no ponchos). The leader will provide a detailed packing list.

References

There are many books to choose from, including:

  • Stewart, Stanley, In the Empire of Genghis Khan, A Journey Among Nomads. 2001.
  • Mongolia: Lonely Planet Travel Survival Kit. 2001.
  • Goldstein, Melvyn, The Changing World Of Mongolia’s Nomads. 1994.
  • Lamb, Harold, Genghis Khan. 1927.
  • Lattimore, Owen, Nomads And Commissars.
  • Metternich, Hilary Roe, Mongolian Folktales.
  • Allen, Benedict, Edge Of Blue, A Journey Through Mongolia.

Conservation

Mongolian Trekking Adventure and Kazakh Eagle Hunters
Photo: Kern Hildebrand

Historically, nomadic herders developed social and economic systems that recognized the need to husband natural resources. With the advent of Communism, Russian "experts" made sweeping changes in the way herding was conducted and many of those changes were, in retrospect, either detrimental or simply foolish. The legacy of Communist central planning is no more poignantly epitomized than in the huge coal fired power plants of Ulaan Baatar, where an entire city of just over 1,000,000 people is heated (through a labyrinth of ductwork) from two central plants.

But the change to a market economy, where the bottom line rules and "progress" is king, has also taken its toll on the environment. Some of the lands we will pass through are overgrazed -- a result of inept private management of livestock by city folk turned herders. The rush to make money has caused severe degradation from coal and gold mining, logging and "urban sprawl." Poaching of game, largely for "traditional medicine" for sale to China and Korea is rampant and has made wildlife sightings a rarity in many areas.

Mongolia is no different from other countries, including the United States. Population and economic concerns often come ahead of environmental protection. We will talk among ourselves, with our Mongolian staff, and with nomads to help understand their environmental perspectives.

Trip Price

This trip requires a $200 per-person deposit. An additional payment of $300 per person is due six months prior to trip departure. International trip prices are subject to change and are based on double-occupancy or group accommodations as described above. Single rooms may not be available or may cost more than the listed price. If you have any questions regarding double occupancy, please contact the trip leader.

See the How to Apply for an Outing section for more details on registering for this trip and details about our Reservation and Cancellation Policy.

The payment of a deposit does not confirm you as a member on the trip. Participants must be approved by the trip leader. After signing up for this trip, you will be sent a confirmation packet containing approval materials (Participant Approval Questionnaire, Medical Form, Liability Release Form). Each applicant (including those on the waitlist) must fill out these forms and promptly mail them to the trip leader. The leader will review the approval materials and notify you of your acceptance in a timely manner.

The Sierra Club accurately and fairly budgets and prices our trips. However, unforeseen costs such as devaluation of the dollar compared to other currencies and fuel surcharges assessed by our international providers may necessitate adjustment in trip price. We will make every effort to mitigate and absorb these fees. If a price increase is necessary, however, you will have 14 days after announcement to cancel without penalty.

Staff

Kern Hildebrand

Kern Hildebrand has led international trips on every continent, including three times previously in Mongolia. According to Kern, "I especially enjoy travel in Mongolia and introducing Sierra Club travelers to our local staff and to Mongolian and Kazakh nomads. I love sharing with trip members the experience of world citizenship that comes from interaction with people whose lives are almost unimaginably different from our own. And, the landscapes will be big and spectacular!" His conditioning for the trail includes lots of hiking, gym workouts, and tending his five-acre California foothills woodland.


E-mail: khildebrand13@gmail.com


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