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Arctic Refuge on a Budget, Arctic National Wildlife Refuge, Alaska

June 11-22, 2013

Arctic National Wildlife Refuge, Alaska

Trip Number: 13013A
Price: $2,495
Deposit: $200
Capacity: 5
Staff: Bertram Koelsch
Rating: 5

Highlights:

  • Search for possible sightings of wolves, grizzlies, musk ox, and caribou
  • Explore some of the most spectacular mountains in the Arctic Refuge
  • Ride along on the scenic drive through the interior of Alaska to the Brooks Range

Includes:

  • Transportation from Fairbanks to the start of our backpacking trip and back
  • All meals, starting with lunch on the first day and ending with lunch on the last day

The Trip

Arctic National Wildlife Refuge, Alaska
Photo: Eric Rorer

Our challenging 12-day backpacking trip takes us into some of the most spectacular mountains in the Arctic Refuge. Grizzlies, wolves, dall sheep, musk ox, and caribou roam this jagged landscape, which we'll enter from the Dalton Highway. Without the prohibitive cost of bush flights, this is a chance to see America's last great wilderness at an affordable price. Utilizing the 24 hours of daylight, we will observe and learn about the Refuge's many plants and animals, plus discuss current environmental threats.

Itinerary

The group will meet the day prior to the start of the trip in Fairbanks, where we will have dinner, distribute group gear, and go over logistics.

Day 1: We begin our trip in Fairbanks. In the early morning hours, we board a large van that will take us to the start of our wilderness adventure. The Dalton Highway extends between Fairbanks and Prudoe Bay and closely parallels the Alaska Oil Pipeline. During our long drive north toward the Brooks Range on the infamous "haul road" we will experience the surrealistic beauty of the Alaska interior. Making our way past the last trees that we will see until our return, we climb up over the Brooks Range and onto the North Slope. In the late afternoon, we begin our backpack trip by hiking under the Alaska Oil Pipeline and immediately entering the Arctic National Wildlife Refuge. After a short hike, we arrive at our first camp in total wilderness, completely out of sight of the road or any other human activity.

Arctic National Wildlife Refuge, Alaska
Photo: Eric Rorer

Days 2-11: Our exact backpacking route will depend on the conditions we find, especially whether or not the Sagavanirktok River can be crossed. In any event, we will complete a loop through the mountains surrounding the Sagavanirktok River, traversing spectacular arctic valleys and dramatic mountain passes, eventually returning to the location of our first camp.

On a typical day the group will hike for about six to eight hours at a moderate pace, stopping to observe the wonders of the Arctic as we see them. We will have almost 24-hour daylight, so we can start and end our hike at any time of the day. Hiking will be difficult sometimes -- when we push through tussocks or willows, for example. If we find we have made the wrong choice for a route, we may even be forced to backtrack at times. Remember, this is part of the joy of exploration.

Day 12: After a short hike back to the Dalton Highway, the same commercial van service will pick us up for the long drive back to Fairbanks. Our trip ends upon our arrival in Fairbanks, typically very late in the evening. Participants should schedule their flights out of Fairbanks for the day after the trip officially ends. Weather delays are not uncommon in the Arctic.

Getting There

Trip members are responsible for arranging their own transportation to and from Fairbanks. Starting the trip out of Fairbanks, one of few relatively affordable flight destinations in Alaska, helps reduce final participant cost. We strongly advise that you arrive in Fairbanks two days ahead of schedule to allow for delayed luggage. Arctic air travel, commercial or charter, is not always on schedule due to weather conditions. You should also allow for at least one flexible day at the end of the trip in case we encounter unexpected weather delays.

Accommodations and Food

Arctic National Wildlife Refuge, Alaska
Photo: Eric Rorer

All food, starting with lunch on the first day through lunch on the last, will be provided. We take pride in providing meals that are tasty and filling, and make a concerted effort not to rely too much on freeze-dried foods. Vegetarians can easily be accommodated. As on most Sierra Club trips, all members help with cooking and clean-up chores. Trip participants and leaders will all share in carrying food and equipment.

Trip Difficulty

This Strenuous-rated (S) trip is for the big-hearted backpacker. We will hike a cross-country route the whole way, entirely dependent on our skills, common sense, and equipment. Stream crossings can become difficult (and cold!) as multiple channels may run high with glacial melt. Be prepared for wet boots. Weather in the Arctic can always be a challenge; while we hope for sunny and dry days, we must be prepared for any condition, including extended periods of rain.

This trip is demanding, and you will need to be in very good shape. While there is no technical climbing, you should feel comfortable climbing over boulders and using your hands to get over passes while carrying a full pack. Trip participants should also be prepared for a bit of exposed hiking in the mountains. We will go slowly when necessary and no one will be rushed through difficult sections of the hike. Elevations are low, so altitude shouldn't be a factor.

Pack weight can be demanding and a slowing factor for hikers of any experience level. Equipment and food will be more substantial than what is required on most trips, with pack weights in the 50-60 pound range. We'll be carrying up to 30 pounds of commissary and group equipment per person, in addition to our personal gear, when we start out.

Arctic National Wildlife Refuge, Alaska
Photo: Eric Rorer

Please be frank and completely honest when completing your trip application. The trip leader will talk to you at length by phone to make sure that this is a trip appropriately suited for you, but the Sierra Club reserves the right to turn participants away at the start of the trip if it is clear they have not been truthful in the application process.

Equipment and Clothing

The leaders will send out a detailed equipment list to approved participants prior to the trip, and are happy to discuss any questions you may have.

The leaders will conduct a gear inspection of each participant before the start of the trip in Fairbanks. Anyone who has brought inappropriate gear, such as a tent that is not waterproof, raingear that is not waterproof, or a pack that is too small will be asked to purchase new gear in Fairbanks.

References

  • Pielou, E.C., A Naturalist's Guide to the Arctic.
  • Lopez, Barry, Arctic Dreams: Imagination and Desire in a Northern Landscape.
  • Bruemmer, Fred, The Arctic.
  • Houston, James, White Dawn: An Eskimo Saga.
  • Berton, Pierre, The Arctic Grail.
  • Sage, Byron, The Arctic and its Wildlife.
  • Dyson, John, The Hot Arctic.

Conservation

Arctic National Wildlife Refuge, Alaska
Photo: Eric Rorer

The Arctic Refuge is one of the last intact ecological systems in the world and is under considerable political pressure for development. To date, efforts to designate the Refuge as wilderness have been rejected outright and there is an ongoing effort to open the Refuge to energy development. Protecting this unique ecosystem is among the highest priorities of nearly every major environmental organization. Trip participants will not only learn about current developments, but they'll also learn how to keep informed of future developments and to become advocates for protection of this important area. In addition, Leave No Trace ethics will be used and emphasized on our trip. Our goal will be to alter the wilderness as little as possible, preserving it for the next group.

Travel in Alaska and the Arctic

Sierra Club outings in Alaska and Arctic Canada are special experiences in true wilderness, but they also carry an element of risk. Trip locales are often remote, away from the amenities of civilization, including sophisticated medical care and immediate evacuation possibilities. Many of our Alaska and Arctic Canada trips now carry satellite phones, but even with this technology, communication with the outside world can be difficult and emergency assistance can be days away. Weather in Alaska and Arctic Canada is unpredictable, and inclement weather can be severe. Among other hazards are cold river and stream crossings, tidal activity, calving glaciers, the psychological effects of remoteness, and the presence of large wild animals. You're in good hands, though, so don't worry: Your trip leaders have vast experience in the Last Frontier, and they'll provide all the guidance you need.

Trip Price

See the How to Apply for an Outing section for more details on registering for this trip and details about our Reservation and Cancellation Policy.

The payment of a deposit does not confirm you as a member on the trip. Participants must be approved by the trip leader. After signing up for this trip, you will be sent a confirmation packet containing approval materials (Participant Approval Questionnaire, Medical Form, Liability Release Form). Each applicant (including those on the waitlist) must fill out these forms and promptly mail them to the trip leader. The leader will review the approval materials and notify you of your acceptance in a timely manner.

Staff

Leader:

Bertram Koelsch celebrated his second birthday on the Arctic Circle. This family trip, where diaper changes included quick rinses in chilling alaskan streams, first introduced Bertram to the raw splendor of the wilderness. Since these days, Bertram has spent his vacations outdoors on trips ranging from ski tours in northern Sweden and the Swiss Alps to backpacking trips in the Andes and the mountains of western China. Bertram's Alaska adventures have been primarily focused in the northern Brooks Range. Here, he has enjoyed numerous backpacking trips under the midnight sun and a dogsled trip beneath the northern lights. It's the enchantment of the arctic that seduces Bertram to always return to Alaska. Currently, Bertram lives in the San Francisco Bay Area and spends his weekends in search of beautiful spots for hiking, climbing and backcountry skiing.

E-mail: blorenzk@yahoo.com

Co-Leader:

Lina Nilsson Lina Nilsson grew up hiking and skiing in a family firmly adhering to the Swedish proverb "there is no poor weather, only poor clothing." Today, she has a rustic mountain cabin in the north of Sweden, where she can experience the vastness of the glacier-shaped landscape. Lina recently moved back to the U.S. after living for three years in Switzerland, where she enjoyed abundant opportunities to hike and ski mountaineer in the Alps. She has backpacked and hiked on four continents. One of her more recent outings was a solo backpacking trip by Eyjafjallajokull, the now infamous volcano in Iceland. Currently, Lina works in research as a biomedical engineer in the San Francisco Bay Area and is busy exploring the Sierra Nevada.

E-mail: lina.m.n@gmail.com


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