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The Trip

Please note that the leader has changed from what was originally published. If you have questions, please contact us.

Our seven-day sailing voyage will take us through the maze of islands and waterways at the northern end of Vancouver Island. This archipelago is a showcase for wildlife, beautiful scenery, and the history and traditions of the Kwakwaka’wakw people (Kwakiutl).

Here the Pacific Ocean funnels into the protected waters of Johnstone Strait, creating strong tidal currents and incredibly nutrient-rich waters. Millions of salmon, returning to spawn in the mainland rivers, must converge to pass through the Strait. Groups of orcas (or killer whales) wait to hunt the salmon in the passages. Gray whales feed in the shallow bays, while humpback whales are found just offshore. Along the shore, black bears roam, feeding in the intertidal zone. The wealth of life and food attracts a variety of marine mammals, seabirds, eagles, and anyone interested in spectacular natural history.

The waters of Johnstone Strait and Queen Charlotte Strait are considered the best place in the world to observe Orcinus orca (killer whales). For a few months of the year, these beautiful marine mammals are present on a daily basis. Guided by the naturalist accompanying us, we should have excellent opportunities for observing and photographing whales. Johnstone Strait is considered the core killer whale area. However, we could encounter orcas at any point during the voyage as they travel miles every day. Some of our anchorages are chosen so that we may hear orcas swim past. This is truly a unique opportunity to see whales in the wild.

We will also have the opportunity to see grizzly bears feeding on spawning salmon, a classic wildlife experience that makes this trip unique. There are few places in the world that can provide consistent, safe, and incredible grizzly bear viewing. Glendale Cove up Knight Inlet is one of them, and has now become one of British Columbia's premier wildlife viewing sites.

This remote location is up a coastal fjord that extends deep into the coastal mountains. Forty-seven individual bears have been identified here, all of them attracted by a run of pink salmon that averages 500,000 fish. They often feed along the shores of the estuary where we can watch from our small boats.

Humpback whales are also usually in the area, and Dalls’ porpoises often come over to the boat to play on the bow wave. If we have a good wind, we will raise the sails and enjoy the silence and beauty of sailing. Our vessel, an elegant 68-foot ketch, is also equipped with engines to allow us to move freely and take maximum advantage of wildlife sightings, weather and tides, and the interests of the group.

The amount of actual sailing will be based upon the winds and the interest of the group. For wildlife viewing, it is necessary to be quickly maneuverable, which is easier while motoring. Our main goal is wildlife viewing; sailing is secondary.

We will be going ashore at least once a day to explore the tide pools and rocky beaches and observe brightly colored sea stars, anemone, and intertidal invertebrates such as crabs and mollusks. There will also be time to explore the protected waters from sea kayaks carried on board.

Itinerary

The trip starts and finishes in Port McNeill, British Columbia. Port McNeill is situated on Queen Charlotte Sound, a beautiful area studded with islands and mountains. Participants will meet at the Municipal Dock on the Port McNeill waterfront. After a brief orientation, we will begin our journey. We will keep our specific itinerary flexible to maximize our wildlife viewing. Wildlife is, by definition, wild and seldom conforms to a fixed schedule!

We will spend each night at anchor in a secluded anchorage.

Getting There

Homeland Security regulations require a valid passport to enter/exit Canada. You will need to have a passport that will be valid for at least six months after your scheduled departure date from Canada.

Options for getting to Port McNeill include flying into the Port Hardy Airport from Vancouver, British Columbia and taking a shuttle for the 30-minute drive to Port McNeill. Some people prefer to see more of Vancouver Island by flying to Victoria and renting a car for the drive north to Port McNeill.

In either case, you are encouraged to stay the night before the start of the trip in Port McNeill, because morning flights can be delayed by fog. We have planned our final day so that you can fly back to Vancouver for your overnight accommodation, if you wish. The leader will recommend hotels in Port McNeill once you have signed up for the trip.

Accommodations and Food

Our vessel is an elegant 68-foot custom ketch that features eight private cabins for two people each, three bathrooms with hot showers, a large comfortable lounge with an extensive library, a well-equipped galley, and many features that make her suited to this type of voyage. Above deck, a large covered cockpit provides comfort in all types of weather. Our boat is spacious and comfortable, and affords easy access to almost everyone. However, even on a spacious vessel quarters are close, so patience, flexibility, and good humor are prerequisites for this trip.

Our ketch also boasts a large motorized inflatable raft for shore excursions, and two double inflatable kayaks for quietly exploring islands and shorelines. The knowledgeable crew consists of a Coast Guard-licensed captain, professional cook, and expert naturalist -- all of whom have spent years exploring the coast and have studied marine biology, ornithology, or anthropology.

All meals from lunch on the first day through breakfast on the last day are provided. A professional cook (who will also be one of our resource guides) will be in charge of all meal preparation. Wholesome meals with ample quantities of fresh vegetables, fruits, grains, and dairy products will be served family- or buffet-style. Complimentary wine is served before and with dinner. Otherwise, guests are responsible for bringing their own alcoholic beverages or soft drinks. Coffee and tea are provided.

Please indicate any dietary issues on the participant approval questionnaire for each member of your family. We'll try to accommodate most dietary requirements, but you must notify the trip leader in advance.

Trip Difficulty

This trip will include a certain amount of strength and agility to climb in and out of small boats and walk over uneven terrain. You should be able to climb a small stepladder with little assistance. There are usually options on the walks and hikes to allow for varying degrees of difficulty. No previous sailing or sea kayaking experience is necessary. The crew will be happy to give you instruction if you are interested in participating in either activity.

Equipment and Clothing

A sleeping bag, rain gear, and knee-high rubber boots are needed for this trip. Little else is needed beyond your clothing and personal items. An itemized equipment list will be sent to you upon acceptance to the trip.

References

Books:

• Stewart, Hilary, Cedar: Tree of Life to the Northwest Coast Indians.
• Read, Bill and Robert Bringhurst, The Raven Steals the Light.
• Spradley, James, Guests Never Leave Hungry: The Autobiography of James Sewid, a Kwakiutl Indian.
• Blancher, Wylie, The Curve of Time: The Classic Memoir of a Woman and Her Children Who Explored the Coastal Waters of the Pacific Northwest.
• McAllister, Ian, The Great Bear Rainforest: Canada's Forgotten Coast.
• Suzuki, David, Orca: Visions of the Killer Whale.

Music:

• Nollman, Jim, Orca’s Greatest Hits; 1999. Orcas and humans make music together, recorded underwater.

Conservation

Extending north along British Columbia’s central coast lie the largest remaining pristine old-growth coastal forests in North America. This area forms the southern end of the Great Bear Rainforest. The timber industry wants to log the old-growth areas to preserve present harvest rates and protect coastal forestry jobs. We will discuss this, the over-harvesting of salmon and other fish, and current orca research activities.

Travel in Alaska and the Arctic

Sierra Club outings in Alaska and Arctic Canada are special experiences in true wilderness, but they also carry an element of risk. Trip locales are often remote, away from the amenities of civilization, including sophisticated medical care and immediate evacuation possibilities. Many of our Alaska and Arctic Canada trips now carry satellite phones, but even with this technology, communication with the outside world can be difficult and emergency assistance can be days away. Weather in Alaska and Arctic Canada is unpredictable, and inclement weather can be severe. Among other hazards are cold river and stream crossings, tidal activity, calving glaciers, the psychological effects of remoteness, and the presence of large wild animals. You're in good hands, though, so don't worry: Your trip leaders have vast experience in the Last Frontier, and they'll provide all the guidance you need.

Trip Price

See the How to Apply for an Outing section for more details on registering for this trip and details about our Reservation and Cancellation Policy.

The payment of a deposit does not confirm you as a member on the trip. Participants must be approved by the trip leader. After signing up for this trip, you will be sent a confirmation packet containing approval materials (Participant Approval Questionnaire, Medical Form, Liability Release Form). Each applicant (including those on the waitlist) must fill out these forms and promptly mail them to the trip leader. The leader will review the approval materials and notify you of your acceptance in a timely manner.

Staff

Elisha Shephard is a Life Member of the Sierra Club, has been a river runner for more than 30 years, and led Sierra Club raft trips for over a decade on rivers such as the Dolores, Rogue, Green, San Juan, Owyhee, and Salmon. But the Orcas trip in British Columbia is one of her favorite water trips. Her passion is introducing people to adventure travel and sharing her love for wild places with others. When not playing on the water, she entertains herself with books, gardening, and taking photos in the outdoors. Feel free to contact Elisha if you are interested in this trip, have questions, or just want to talk adventure travel.

E-mail: eshephard@bellsouth.net

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General Notes About Sierra Club Trips

• Carbon Offsets
• Carpooling
• Electronic Devices
• Equipment
• How to Apply for a Trip
• Leader Gratuities
• Liability Release and Assumption of Risk
• Medical Issues
• Non-discrimination Statement
• Participant Approval
• Reservation and Cancellation Policy
• Seller of Travel Disclosure
• Travel Insurance
• Trip Feedback
• Wilderness Manners