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Service and History on Kalaupapa, Molokai, Hawaii

May 20-24, 2013

Kalaupapa, Molokai

Trip Number: 13053A
Price: $1,045
Deposit: $200
Capacity: 15
Staff: Ruth Morton

Highlights:

  • Work and stay on Molokai's dramatic and isolated Kalaupapa peninsula
  • Learn the remarkable history of this 'lava leaf' National Historic Park
  • Enjoy the beauty of verdant, imposing sea cliffs and blue Pacific waters
  • Swim or snorkel in dock-side waters with varied fish species

Includes:

  • Four nights lodging in the Kalaupapa settlement, and all meals
  • Charter air transportation from Maui to Molokai
  • Work with National Historic Park employees on outdoor projects

The Trip

“This was a trip of a lifetime on so many levels. Suffice it to say that it moved me mentally, spiritually and physically!” - 2012 trip participant

Kalaupapa, Molokai
Photo: Dick Schmidt

Volunteers on this trip have a unique opportunity to experience what few others do.

The peninsula of Kalaupapa occupies a special place in the history of the Hawaiian Islands. For many years this was the place to which Hansen's disease (leprosy) victims were banished to live in isolation from family and friends for the rest of their lives. Father Damien (now Saint Damien) and many others lived and worked in the colony to serve the patients, advocate for changes, and make patients' lives more bearable. Now, former patients live at Kalaupapa, coming and going as they choose. The cure of this disease has affected many. In Hawaii's ohana-based (family) society, exclusion was an extremely difficult burden to bear, affecting both the victims and their families on other islands. Discrimination against families was common in the early 20th century when there was great ignorance and fear of leprosy.

Geographically, Kalaupapa is an isolated leaf-like flow of lava extending into the windward Pacific coastline. Its several miles of coast are a combination of tide pools, rocky shorelines, and pristine white or black sand beaches. The community of Kalaupapa occupies a small portion of this land area, leaving open tracts of grassland and trees. Now a National Historic Park, established in 1980, the park encompasses a total area of 10,726 acres, including approximately 8,726 acres of land and 2,000 acres of offshore/undersea area. Most of the land within the park boundaries is managed by NPS through formal cooperative agreements with various federal and state agencies, as well as private entities. The park was established to preserve the memories of the victims as well as maintain the settlements of Kalaupapa and Kalawao, a volcanic crater, rain forests and the iconic Molokai Lighthouse.

Typically, all visitors entering the peninsula must have a permit, and only visitors of the remaining residents are permitted to stay overnight (those 16 and younger are excluded -- a holdover from the days when patients' infants and children were taken from them). The island of Molokai bills itself as "the most Hawaiian island" -- indeed it has been subject to less development than other islands, with a strong coterie of residents who prefer to keep their island rural. Kalaupapa has seen none of the development typical elsewhere in the islands, making it an unusually quiet and lovely (and many say spiritual) place to experience.

The Project

Kalaupapa, Molokai
Photo: Dick Schmidt

Our commitment is for each of us to work 30 hours on a variety of projects during our stay, under the direction of Paul Hosten, Ph.D., Volunteer Coordinator and Terrestrial Ecologist. These projects may include planting, gardening, weeding, and nursery work, as well as maintaining patients' gardens and clearing historic cemetary spaces. Other projects will be developed as we match participants' skills/interests to the needs of the park.

Itinerary

Day 1: We will meet at the Kahului Maui Airport for our morning over-water small craft flight to Kalaupapa. After landing at the inspiring Kalaupapa peninsula, we will be met by our NPS host and transported to our park-provided lodging for the week. Upon settling in, lunch this day will be the first meal provided by the trip. After an orientation to the island and our project(s), our service experience at the National Historic Park will begin.

Days 2-5: We will work hard each day, but also get into the rhythm of "island time." Our shared meals provide nourishment as well as conversation and community. NPS staff, who include local islanders, will share stories and perspectives as they accompany us to daily work locations. These include breathtaking sights that few others ever see. During non-work hours, some will choose to snorkel or swim in the refreshing dock-side waters -- close to our accommodations. Others will find their way to the unique tavern to make the acquaintance of locals while taking refreshment, or wander the settlement soaking up its history or observing a monk seal mother and pup. In the late afternoon on day five, after lunch provided by the Sierra Club, we will bid a fond “aloha” to new friends at Kalaupapa and return to Maui by charter plane. Once at the Kahului airport, our trip comes to its conclusion at approximately 6 p.m.

“I so hope that the Sierra Club continues to offer this service trip to Kalaupapa. It is such a meaningful trip in a place where 8,000 people died of Hansen's Disease, and their stories must not be forgotten. It is a place where very step you take is on sacred ground, where volunteers are much appreciated and sincerely thanked for their service. It is a hugely fulfilling experience, and we are grateful for it!” - 2012 trip participant

Getting There

Kalaupapa, Molokai
Photo: Dick Schmidt

Kahului, Maui is accessible by most major air carriers. Due to our 7:45 a.m. departure from Kahului to Kalaupapa, it is necessary that you travel to Maui at least the day prior to the start of the trip. If you are interested in coming early or staying late, the leaders will provide hotel information and suggestions of sites to visit.

Accommodations and Food

In Kalaupapa we will stay in the former nurses' and doctors' homes. These facilities are dormitory style, with shared bathrooms in each house. Our accommodations are basic but comfortable, with lovely ocean breezes and shade trees. All of our food for the work week must be transported down with us; the grocery store in Kalaupapa is available only to residents. The leaders will shop in Maui for groceries and package our food pre-trip to be flown down by charter plane with us on the flight from Maui. The Hawaii subcommittee prides itself on the food it serves; local products and recipes are incorporated into its menus. It is extremely important that you discuss any dietary restrictions with the leader(s) before you sign up. In addition to all grocery shopping being done in advance, our cooking facilities are limited. Special dietary needs may not be able to be accommodated. Participants will help with the preparation and clean-up of our meals during our Kalaupapa stay.

Trip Difficulty

This trip requires the ability to work in the outdoors in the tropical sun, wind, and heat, while bending, stretching, lifting, pulling, and sweating. The ability to perform physical tasks under these conditions is necessary for the enjoyment of this outing. A normal exercise program is important. There are no local medical facilities on the Kalaupapa peninsula. Trip participants must be willing to fly on small aircraft with limited personal luggage.

Equipment and Clothing

Kalaupapa, Molokai
Photo: Dick Schmidt

A detailed list will be provided to participants.

References

If you have time for a longer stay in Hawaii, the Bishop Museum in Honolulu tells the story of the Hawaiian Islands admirably. The museum has been updated in recent years; there are now daily activities and docent tours led by experienced and knowledgeable Hawaiians. On a recent trip there, we learned about (and practiced) traditional Hawaiian music, did some hula dancing, and toured the Hawaiian history section with a kahuna (knowledgeable teacher).

Websites:
  • Kalaupapa National Historic Park: www.nps.gov/kala/
  • Molokai Visitors Bureau: www.molokai-hawaii.com
Literature:
  • Daws, Gavin, Shoal in Time. Accurate history of Hawai’i.
  • Brennert, Alan, Molokai. Historical fiction of Kalaupapa. (Brennert's book, Honolulu, also describes this city's history well.)
  • Bushnell, O.A., Molokai. Fictional story of Kalaupapa exiles.
  • Tayman, John, The Colony: The Harrowing True Story of the Exiles of Molokai.

Conservation

Kalaupapa, Molokai
Photo: Dick Schmidt

The Sierra Club Outings program is based on heightening awareness of conservation and the environment throughout the world. We plan outings so members can experience new places, people, and activities. Our concern is the global environment; we encourage participants to take action to protect our shrinking world and its inhabitants -- human and otherwise. On this trip, we will be made aware of the uniqueness of Kalaupapa and the National Historic Park's participation in future plans for the peninsula.

“The camaraderie of nine individuals tossed initially together for a few minutes before climbing into a small aircraft for a flight to a storied location, to do service at a site where history has witnessed a range of the human condition from suffering to Sainthood. What a pleasure to work alongside each other, leaders and participants, to help do a bit of good for this location, the residents who still remain -- and those who have gone on -- and the National Historical Park Service personnel who are now stewards of this peninsula called Kalaupapa.” - 2012 trip participant

Trip Price

See the How to Apply for an Outing section for more details on registering for this trip and details about our Reservation and Cancellation Policy.

The payment of a deposit does not confirm you as a member on the trip. Participants must be approved by the trip leader. After signing up for this trip, you will be sent a confirmation packet containing approval materials (Participant Approval Questionnaire, Medical Form, Liability Release Form). Each applicant (including those on the waitlist) must fill out these forms and promptly mail them to the trip leader. The leader will review the approval materials and notify you of your acceptance in a timely manner.

Staff

Leader:

Ruth Morton Ruth Morton is a long-time member of Sierra Club, has enjoyed Hawaii the past 20 years, and has volunteered on service projects on Maui's Honokawaii Valley as well as at Kalaupapa. The beauty of Hawai'i- especially Kalaupapa - and the spirit of aloha continue to inspire her. After a career leading adult learning and corporate programs, she now focuses her energy on Sierra Club trips. Her other interests include birding, hiking, gardening, painting, and Ikebana.

E-mail: ruthdmorton@comcast.net

Commissary:

Melody Watral 'Mel' Watral has led and cooked on trips with the Hawaii Sub-Committee for nearly 17 years. Maui holds a special place in her heart -- she met her husband on a trip 11 years ago. She is an avid quilter and is determined to learn how to make a Hawaiian quilt!

E-mail: mwatral@nc.rr.com


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