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Connoisseur's Coast-to-Coast Walk, England

June 2-16, 2013

Coast-to-Coast Walk, England

Trip Number: 13615A
Price: $3,975
Deposit: $200
Capacity: 14
Staff: Cathy Dezendorf

Highlights:

  • Hike through England's finest scenery: rugged mountains, lush river valleys, heather moors, and spectacular sea cliffs
  • Enjoy charming English villages, quaint pubs, and cozy bed and breakfasts
  • Spend six days discovering England’s incomparable Lake District

Includes:

  • All lodging and meals
  • All on-trip transportation
  • All gratuities

The Trip

Please note that the trip dates have changed from what was originally published. If you have questions, please contact us.

The traditional Coast-to-Coast Walk stretches across the north of England from the Irish Sea at St. Bees in Cumbria to the North Sea at Robin Hood's Bay in North Yorkshire. On this uniquely designed trip, we will walk the most scenic 100 miles of the route, concentrating on the three national parks: the Lake District, renowned for its gorgeous lakes and craggy peaks; the Yorkshire Dales, with its gentle green valley, full of ancient stone walls and old farms -- popularized by the PBS series, All Creatures Great and Small; and the North York Moors, lush with heather and ending at the coastline on the North Sea. We will stop in charming old English villages and frequent quaint pubs and tea rooms, as well as medieval ruins along the way. We will start the trip with a visit to the longest remaining stretch of historic Hadrian's Wall and the Roman Birdoswwald Fort. Our baggage will be shuttled to our B&Bs each day, allowing each of us to carry only a day pack. We will be walking 7-12+ miles a day. On some days we'll skip the less scenic portions of A.W. Wainwright's traditional walk for more picturesque trails. Private bus transportation will be provided for omitted sections of the trail and to some B&Bs, restaurants, and historic sites as required.

This trip differs from other Sierra Club Coast-to-Coast trips in that it includes one additional layover day to explore the incomparable Lake District. A second layover day will allow us to adjust slowly to the challenging terrain in the Lake District. This trip also includes a visit to Hadrian's Wall and the Birdoswald Roman Fort not offered on the 14-day trip

We expect to have local ramblers joining us for some of our walks. We will visit ancient abbeys and other ruins that date back to medieval times. Some of the landscapes we cross will display the after-effects of lead, coal, and iron mining from past ages.

Itinerary

Coast-to-Coast Walk, England
Photo: Paul McKown

The following is a tentative description of our day-to-day activities. Inclement weather, poor trail conditions, and safety issues could create necessary changes to the itinerary. There may also be changes if sites are closed.

Day 1: Our trip officially begins this morning in Carlisle. After breakfast we will board a coach for a 30-minute ride to Birdoswald Roman Fort, where we'll explore ancient Roman ruins and walk along the longest continuous stretch of Hadrian's Wall visible today. Our guide will introduce us to the fascinating life of Birdoswald, dating back 2,000 years, as we walk through the recently excavated Roman Fort. After our introduction to the Roman presence in medieval England, we will have lunch and then return to Carlisle. A one-hour drive will take us to St. Bees where our hike begins. After checking into our B&Bs we will tour the St. Bees Priory and learn about the St. Bees Man before meeting in the evening for dinner.

Day 2: St. Bees to Cleator (9.5 miles). After the traditional dipping of our boots into the Irish Sea, we will begin with the ascent and traverse of St. Bees head, a three-mile promontory with cliffs falling 300 feet to the Irish Sea. On a clear day, you can see the Lakeland Fells (hills) to the east and the Isle of Man to the west. Following lunch at a small village along the route, we'll work our way through a tapestry of patterned fields and lanes to Cleator. At the end of today's walk, we'll take some time for well-deserved refreshments at a local pub before being transported back to our B&Bs in St. Bees for the night.

Day 3: Ennerdale Bridge to Honister Quarry (10 miles). This section begins with a walk along the shore of Ennerdale Water, the westernmost lake in the Lake District, to Ennerdale Forest. After a hike through a forest we’ll have lunch at the Black Sail Youth Hostel, the most remote Youth Hostel in England. Leaving the Youth Hostel, we'll begin a steady 1,000-foot climb over Honister Pass, which is dominated by the magnificent mountain scenery of Pillar (2,927 feet) and 2,949-foot Great Gable. The path then leads down to Honister Quarry, where we will visit one of the oldest slate mines still operating. Overnight: Grasmere.

Day 4: Stonethwaite to Grasmere (8.2 miles). Our second day in the Lake District starts by walking into the secluded side valley of Stonethwaite, which is dominated by Eagle Crag. We will climb over Greenup Edge to the head of Far Easedale, the valley leading to Grasmere. If the weather is fine after lunch, we may elect to continue up to the summit rocks of Helm Crag, an amazing array of pinnacles and tilted rock slabs. Following our ascent, we'll descend into the historic village of Grasmere, the birthplace of William Wordsworth. We will overnight in Grasmere.

Coast-to-Coast Walk, England
Photo: Nancy Lashbrook

Day 5: Grasmere to Glenridding (8.5 miles). Today our walk will take us around Great Tongue, between Helvellyn Peak (3,118 feet) and St. Sunday Crag, and alongside Grisedale Tarn (lake). In the afternoon we descend into Glenridding, where we will spend the next three nights.

Day 6: Today is the first of two layover days. You may elect to spend a leisurely day on the shore of Ullswater Lake, or you could combine a walk and a cruise along Ullswater Lake on one of the steamers that can be seen on the lake. It is said that the patron saint of Ireland, St. Patrick, preached here and baptized converts. His Holy Well is at the roadside and can be found one mile north of the village.

Day 7: Pooley Bridge to Glenridding (11.0 miles, 1,500 feet gain). Today we’ll climb high above the shores of Ullswater Lake past the Cockpit, an impressive stone circle said to have been built in pre-historic times. We’ll continue on while enjoying stunning views of the Lake District fells. The second part of our walk will take us down to the rim of Ullswater Lake and eventually back to Glenridding, where we may stop for refreshments on the terrace of the beautiful Inn on the Lake.

Day 8: Sunbiggin Tarn to Kirkby Stephen (8.5 miles). The day starts with a ride to shorten what would otherwise be a 22-mile walk! We will start our walk near Sunbiggin Tarn. The hills in this area are more gentle and our route less rocky than in the Lake District. After crossing Rayseat Pike and the lower slopes of Crosby Garret Fell, we will see the site of the prehistoric village of Severals in the Smardale Valley and the lime kilns on Smardale Fell. Next, we'll walk into the old market town of Kirkby Stephen, where we’ll stay overnight.

Day 9: Kirkby Stephen to Keld (12 miles). We will begin the 1,570-foot climb to Nine Standards Rigg, large cairns dating back to at least pre-18th century. Two important milestones are reached in this section of the walk: the Yorkshire Dales National Park is entered and the watershed of the Pennines is crossed at the highest point of the fell -- 2,178 feet. A long and possibly boggy decent will take us to the remote and very picturesque village of Keld, where we will spend the night.

Day 10: Keld to Gunnerside (8.5 miles). We'll follow the course of the River Swale along the valley floor. From Keld we will cross the river by a footbridge near East Gill Force (waterfall) and climb to the ruins of Crackpot Hall (a former lead mining area). Next we'll descend to the path along the river. There are many old mines in this area, dating back to the 17th and 18th centuries, and there is evidence that the Romans extracted lead in this region. After lunch at a traditional pub in the tiny village of Muker we walk on to Gunnerside, where we’ll stop to enjoy afternoon tea. From here we will be transported on to Richmond in North Yorkshire, where we will stay two nights.

Day 11: Richmond is a large historic town with an impressive castle and classic Georgian architecture. A walking tour is planned in the morning for those who wish to join. The rest of the day is free to explore the many attractions, parks, and gardens, or to just wander along the River Swale. Tonight we’ll be treated to traditional music in a local pub.

Coast-to-Coast Walk, England
Photo: Paul McKown

Day 12: Swainby to Clay Bank Top (8.5 miles). Following a morning bus ride we’ll arrive in the North York Moors National Park. Wainwright described the moors: "unenclosed, uninhabited, remote from industry and noise and free from traffic -- a magnificent territory for the walker." We will pass the well-known landmark of the Wainstones on Hasty Bank, and then descend to Clay Bank top, where we will be transported to nearby Great Broughton to spend the next two nights at a country inn or working farm.

Day 13: Clay Bank Top to Lion Inn at Blakey (9.0 miles). As we leave Clay Bank Top, the ground will rise steadily across Urra Moor, the highest point of the North York Moors. There are beautiful views of Bransdale, Farndale, and Rosedale. We will have a late lunch at the Lion Inn Pub in Blakey and then board our waiting bus for a short visit to the Mount Grace Priory, a ruined Carthusian monastery dating from 1398.

Day 14: Whitby to Robin Hood's Bay (7.0 miles). Leaving Whitby we'll pass the dramatic Whitby Abbey, which inspired Bram Stoker to write Dracula. From there we'll continue along the coast on the Cleveland Way a few miles until we rejoin the Coast-to-Coast track. Today's walk will take us along the clifftops overlooking the North Sea and drop us at the picturesque smugglers village, where we will ceremoniously dip our feet in the North Sea to mark the completion of the Coast to Coast walk. Well done! After exploring Robin Hood's Bay, we will board our transportation for a trip back to Whitby Abbey and the town of Whitby. Participants are free to choose between a guided tour of the Whitby Abbey or time on their own to shop and walk around this interesting waterside community. Following today's activities, we'll gather for our festive farewell dinner at a popular seafood restaurant and then spend the night in Whitby.

Day 15: Whitby to York. Our transportation will depart at 9 a.m. for York, a journey of about two hours. We will say goodbye here, after accomplishing a remarkable feat. The trip ends at the York Train Station at approximately 11:00 a.m.

Getting There

Coast-to-Coast Walk, England
Photo: Nancy Lashbrook

Getting to the meeting point is the responsibility of each participant. You can fly into London's Heathrow or Gatwick airports and take a train north to Carlisle from London's Kings Cross station. You may also fly into Manchester and take a train north to Carlisle directly from the Manchester Airport and avoid the difficulties of getting around London. Yet another alternative is to fly into Edinburgh, Scotland. There are good connections from there to Carlisle. When we leave Whitby on day 15, you'll be transported to the main train station in York, where trains run frequently to London, Manchester, Edinburgh, or other destinations for your return flight home.

Accommodations and Food

We will be using a variety of comfortable hotels, bed-and-breakfasts, farmhouses, and inns. Rooms will be double occupancy. Unfortunately single room accommodations are very difficult to find in this area and will not be available. All meals from breakfast on day 1 through breakfast on day 15 are included in the trip price. Breakfasts will be English style -- full and hearty. You will be given money to purchase food for lunches from local stores for trailside picnics or to spend for lunch at a pub or teas shop. Dinners will be full-service meals at top-rated dining establishments along our route. There will be adequate opportunities to try local food specialties (the lamb is especially delicious!), and vegetarian dishes are available at most locations. A good selection of ales, wines, and ciders are always available for purchase.

PLEASE NOTE: Drinks, including bottled water and soft drinks, are not included in the trip price. (Coffee, tea, and juice are included with breakfasts.) You may also choose to purchase extra hiking snacks and afternoon post-hiking treats.

Trip Difficulty

This trip is designed for experienced hikers currently involved in regular hiking activities (not just walking). The route will vary in difficulty with walking distances of up to 12 miles and elevation gains up to 2,500 feet. All walks will be on trails or paths, some of which are very steep and rocky. Agility is needed to negotiate rocky trails, traverse small streams, and climb stepladder stiles over stone walls without difficulty. Portions of our route will be over muddy, boggy terrain and trails can be quite slippery when wet.

Some rain is to be expected and can make any walk more challenging. Our luggage is shuttled to our accommodations each day; however, each participant must carry a day pack with lunch, drinking water, raingear, a warm layer, and any other items needed during the day.

Coast-to-Coast Walk, England
Photo: Paul McKown

Participants should be accustomed to walking at a pace of 2+ miles per hour on level ground and be able to walk up steep grades at a slower pace without undue fatigue. Our walking is not difficult or rushed for a fit hiker; however, for safety reasons it is important that everyone be prepared to keep a similar pace. Please call or email the leader if you have any questions regarding your abilities before signing up for the trip. Your enjoyment of this trip will depend on your preparation and general fitness level. Regular hiking is the only activity that will totally prepare your legs, feet, and ankles for this trip.

Equipment and Clothing

It can rain a lot in England. Even when it is not raining, some areas are very wet and boggy, so high-top, waterproof hiking boots are a must. A lightweight, two-piece waterproof rain-suit is also necessary to stay warm and dry. The leader will make other suggestions about clothing in a more detailed letter, listing what you may need for daytime and nighttime activities. Most participants find trekking poles very useful in the types of terrain we’ll be walking over.

References

Maps:

  • The Ordnance Survey is Great Britain's national mapping agency and provides the most accurate and up-to-date geographic data. It is relied on by government, businesses, and individuals. Visit their website at: http://www.ordnancesurvey.co.uk/oswebsite/leisure/ The maps are easily purchased in the UK.
Books:
  • The classic itinerary for this walk is contained in A. Wainwright’s pictorial guide, A Coast to Coast Walk, a pocket-sized guide jammed full of valuable information, sketches of the area, and minutely detailed descriptions of the ground covered. Getting to know Wainwright, through his witty and thoughtful commentary, is a delight. Keep in mind that our trip takes the best sections of his trip and adds and omits other areas.
  • Reading about the country's natural history and culture beforehand also enhances the participant's enjoyment of the trip. The National Trust Book of Long Walks in England, Scotland and Wales, by Adam Nicolson, available in many libraries, is an excellent resource.
  • Other guidebooks that are excellent supplements to Wainwright's classic: Coast to Coast Path, by Henry Stedman, Coast to Coast Walk, by Paul Hannon, and A Northern Coast to Coast Walk, by Terry Marsh.
Websites:
  • http://www.visitrichmond.co.uk
  • http://www.discovercarlisle.co.uk/
  • http://www.eastcoast.co.uk/
  • http://www.visitcumbria.com/wc/stbees.htm
  • http://www.robin-hoods-bay.co.uk/html/local_history.htm
  • http://www.visitbritain.com
  • http://www.bbc.co.uk/weather
  • http://www.theguardian.co.uk
  • http://www.golakes.co.uk
  • http://www.yorkshirevisitor.com

Conservation

The Sierra Club is an environmentally focused entity. We are concerned about conservation and sustainability of resources, both locally and globally. Our work is accomplished by volunteers and aided by a salaried staff, encouraging grassroots involvement. Our outings seek to empower participants toward greater understanding, advocacy, and participation in the goals of the Club.

England has been heavily populated for hundreds of years and most of the land is utilized for human endeavor. Basically, its national parks are lines drawn around scenic areas that are largely in private hands to control development and non-conforming uses. Urban sprawl, intensive farming, motorways, and the demand for vacation facilities place heavy pressure upon open space and wildlife habitat. In spite of the differences in our national parks in the United States and those in Europe, we share common concerns about the effects that global warming is having on the natural environment. We’ll hope to meet with local conservationists and to learn what they are doing to try to mitigate the damage.

Participants are encouraged to bring information about environmental issues in their home communities to share with our group. It is hoped that your participation on a Sierra Club trip will inspire you to become more active in advocating for the environment, both globally and locally, when you return home.

Trip Price

This trip requires a $200 per-person deposit. An additional payment of $300 per person is due six months prior to trip departure. International trip prices are subject to change and are based on double-occupancy or group accommodations as described above. Single rooms may not be available or may cost more than the listed price. If you have any questions regarding double occupancy, please contact the trip leader.

See the How to Apply for an Outing section for more details on registering for this trip and details about our Reservation and Cancellation Policy.

The payment of a deposit does not confirm you as a member on the trip. Participants must be approved by the trip leader. After signing up for this trip, you will be sent a confirmation packet containing approval materials (Participant Approval Questionnaire, Medical Form, Liability Release Form). Each applicant (including those on the waitlist) must fill out these forms and promptly mail them to the trip leader. The leader will review the approval materials and notify you of your acceptance in a timely manner.

The Sierra Club accurately and fairly budgets and prices our trips. However, unforeseen costs such as devaluation of the dollar compared to other currencies and fuel surcharges assessed by our international providers may necessitate adjustment in trip price. We will make every effort to mitigate and absorb these fees. If a price increase is necessary, however, you will have 14 days after announcement to cancel without penalty.

Staff

Leader:

Cathy Dezendorf Cathy Dezendorf finds great satisfaction in sharing her love of hiking with others. After many years as a National Outings backpack trip leader in the Sierra Nevada, she discovered the joy of hiking in Europe where a comfortable bed, a warm shower, and a good meal are waiting at the end of the trail each day. She is active with her local chapter where she enjoys leading weekend backpack trips and is certified as a Wilderness First Responder. Cathy lives just north of the Golden Gate Bridge and when she isn't hiking she works as a sales rep and enjoys spending time with her children and small grandchildren.

E-mail: cdezendorf@mindspring.com

Assistant Leader:

Gene Goldberg Gene Goldberg has been leading Sierra Club trips since 1990. His Club trips have included backpacking in the Colorado Rockies, cultural trips in New Mexico, and many hiking trips to Northern Italy, the Alps, New Zealand, Norway, and Bhutan. This will be his second time on England's Coast to Coast route and he is excited to be returning. He lives in Santa Fe, New Mexico with his wife, Gail, and dogs, Whisky and Bailey. Visit his website at http://genesoutings.camprecipes.com/ for more information about the other trips he leads, as well as some of his photos from around the world.

E-mail: ggold113@q.com


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