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The Trip

Please note that the leader has changed from what was originally published. If you have questions, please contact us.

England’s Coast-to-Coast walk is a classic. It was a life ambition of A. Wainwright’s, as documented in his pictorial guide that describes a 190-mile walk, in an approximate beeline, that keeps a preference for the high ground and crosses some of England’s most stunning countryside. Our walk covers 100+ miles of the original route and begins at St. Bees Head on the coast of the Irish Sea. We will walk through three of England's national parks: the Lake District, renowned for its gorgeous lakes and craggy peaks; the Yorkshire Dales, with its gentle green valleys full of ancient stone walls and old farms, and popularized by the PBS series, All Creatures Great and Small; and the North York Moors, which is secluded and lush with heather, and ends at a picturesque coastline along the North Sea.

Along the way we will stop in remote and quiet country villages and hamlets to refresh ourselves in pubs and tearooms, and we’ll also take time to wander around medieval ruins and monuments that give evidence of England’s ancient history. Our luggage will be shuttled by van each day to the next B&B, leaving us free and unburdened to enjoy our day with just a day pack. Our walks vary in length from 8-13 miles each day and, on occasion, our van will transport us across sections of this classic walk.

We will be accompanied by some local ramblers on several walks and they will also join us for dinner, giving insights into the rhythm of life in rural England. This part of England had a vibrant history in mining -- we’ll cross landscapes that show evidence of lead, coal, and iron mining reaching back into the early 18th century.

The following is a tentative description of our day-to-day activities, giving a flavor of what you can expect on this trip. Inclement weather or poor trail conditions could require necessary changes to the itinerary.

Itinerary

Day 1: Our trip officially begins in Carlisle after breakfast when we take a bus for a 30-minute ride to Birdoswald Roman Fort, where we'll explore ancient Roman ruins and walk along the longest continuous stretch of Hadrian's Wall visible today. A walk through the excavated Roman Fort gives an introduction to the fascinating life of Birdoswald, dating back 2,000 years. After lunch, we return to Carlisle to collect our luggage, and a one-hour drive will take us to St. Bees, where our hike begins. After checking into our B&Bs we will tour St. Bees Priory and learn about the St. Bees Man before meeting in the evening for dinner.

Day 2: St. Bees to Cleator (8.5 miles). After the traditional dipping of our boots into the Irish Sea, we will begin the ascent and traverse of St. Bees Head, a three-mile-long promontory that ends in cliffs that fall 300 feet to the Irish Sea. On a clear day, you can see the Lakeland Fells (hills) to the east and the Isle of Man to the west. Following lunch at a small village, we wind our way through a network of fields and lanes to Cleator. At the end of today’s walk, we take some time for well-deserved refreshments at a local pub before being transported to our accommodations in Ennerdale to freshen up before dinner.

Day 3: Ennerdale to Honister Quarry (11 miles). We begin walking along the shore of Ennerdale Water, the westernmost lake in the Lake District, to Ennerdale Forest. After a lunch break at Black Sail Youth Hostel, formerly a shepherd’s hut, we have a strenuous 1,000-foot climb over Honister Pass, overshadowed by the magnificent mountain scenery of Pillar (2,927 feet) and Great Gable (2,949 feet), and the rugged Haystacks, where Wainwright’s ashes were scattered. The path leads down to Honister Quarry, where we will visit one of the oldest slate mines still operating. From there, we will board our waiting bus to our B&B accommodations in Borrowdale, a very picturesque Lakeland valley.

Day 4: Stonethwaite to Grasmere (10 miles; total elevation gain 1,950 feet). Our second day in the Lake District starts by walking into the secluded side valley of Stonethwaite, dominated by Eagle Crag. Next is Greenup Edge, the pass separating Borrowdale and Grasmere in the Far Easedale Valley. Pending fine weather after lunch, we may elect to continue up to the summit rocks of Helm Crag, better known as "The Lion and The Lamb," an amazing array of pinnacles and tilted rock slabs. Following our ascent, we’ll descend into the historic village of Grasmere, the birthplace of William Wordsworth. We will overnight in Grasmere.

Day 5: Grasmere to Patterdale (8.5 miles; total elevation gain 1,600 feet). Today we have a gradual climb up to Grisedale Pass where we’ll stop to enjoy the view of Grisedale Tarn (lake) below, backed by Dollywagon Pike. Beyond the pass we descend to walk alongside the lake between Helvellyn Peak (3,118 feet) and St. Sunday Crag, and onwards to Patterdale, where we will spend the night.

Day 6: Patterdale to Shap (12 miles). Today we start with a cruise on one of the steamers along Ullswater Lake, the second largest lake in the Lake District. Next we walk across Askham Fell passing "High Street," the course of a Roman road, and on to a small village on the edge of the River Lowther where we’ll stop for lunch. Our trail follows the river through a remote valley to the remains of Shap Abbey -- once the home to a community of Premonstratensian canons in about 1200. We have now left the Lake District and will overnight in Shap.

Day 7: Sunbiggin Tarn to Kirkby Stephen (8 miles). The day starts with a bus ride to shorten what would otherwise be a 22-mile walk. The hills in this area are gentler and our route less rocky than in the Lake District. After crossing near Rayseat Pike and the lower slopes of Crosby Garret Fell, we will see the site of the prehistoric village of Severals in the valley of Smardale, and the lime kilns on Smardale Fell. We'll continue walking to the old market town of Kirkby Stephen, where we will stay the night.

Day 8: Kirkby Stephen to Keld (12 miles). We will begin the 1,570-foot climb to Nine Standards Rigg, large cairns dating back to at least pre-18th century. Two important milestones are reached in this section of the walk: we enter Yorkshire Dales National Park, and we cross the watershed of the Pennines at the highest point of the fell -- 2,178 feet. We will descend to Keld for the night.

Day 9: Keld to Gunnerside (8.5 miles). We will follow the course of the River Swale along the valley floor. From Keld we will cross the river by a footbridge near East Gill Force (waterfall) and climb to the ruins of Crackpot Hall (a former lead mining area), then down to the path along the river. There are many old mines in this area, dating back to the 17th and 18th centuries, together with evidence of lead extraction from the Roman time period. Then we walk on to Gunnerside where we meet our bus and ride on to Richmond for a well-deserved rest day.

Day 10: Rest day in Richmond, North Yorkshire. Richmond is a large, historic town founded by the Normans in 1071 -- the castle and its keep still dominate the surroundings. The Georgian period, in the late 17th and 18th centuries, marked Richmond’s heyday, with much elegant architecture being erected around its cobbled marketplace reported to be one of the largest in England. A walking tour is planned in the morning for those who wish to join. The rest of the day is free to explore Easby Abbey, the many parks and gardens, or to just wander along the River Swale. Tonight we’ll be treated to traditional music in a local pub.

Day 11: Swainby to Clay Bank Top (9 miles). A morning bus ride takes us into the North York Moors National Park. Wainwright described the moors as "unenclosed, uninhabited, remote from industry and noise and free from traffic -- a magnificent territory for the walker." We will pass the well-known landmark of the Wainstones on Hasty Bank, and then descend to Clay Bank Top. After a short ride we arrive in nearby Great Broughton for a night's stay in a working farm or a country inn.

Day 12: Clay Bank Top to Lion Inn at Blakey (9 miles). As we leave Clay Bank Top, the ground will rise steadily across Urra Moor, the highest point of the North York Moors. There are beautiful views of Bransdale, Farndale (famous for its daffodils in spring), and Rosedale. We will eat lunch along our way to the venerable Lion Inn at Blakey which dates back to 1553. After a well-earned refreshment, our bus takes us to the North Sea town of Whitby where we will stay our last two nights.

Day 13: Whitby to Robin Hood's Bay (9 miles). Leaving Whitby we’ll pass the dramatic Whitby Abbey, which inspired Bram Stoker to write Dracula. From there we'll continue along the coast on the Cleveland Way a few miles until we rejoin the Coast-to-Coast track. Today’s walk will take us along the clifftops overlooking the North Sea and drop us into the picturesque smugglers' village of Robin Hood’s Bay, where we will ceremoniously and triumphantly dip our feet in the North Sea, enjoy a walk through the charming and historic village, and have lunch at a seaside pub. After lunch we will visit Whitby Abbey, founded in 657, and the town of Whitby. Following today’s activities, we will gather for our farewell dinner.

Day 14: Whitby to York. Our bus will depart at 9 a.m. for York, a journey of about two hours. We will say goodbye here, after accomplishing a remarkable feat. The trip ends at the York Train Station at approximately 11 a.m.

Getting There

Our trip begins and ends in two different cities. Getting to our starting point of Carlisle is the responsibility of each participant. You can fly into London's Heathrow airport, take the Heathrow Express into central London and catch a train north to Carlisle. You may also fly into Manchester and take a train north to Carlisle directly from Manchester Airport and avoid the difficulties of getting around London.
Participants are encouraged to arrive at least a few days before our official start time to get through the almost unavoidable jet lag. Many take advantage of this extra time to visit historic Carlisle Castle, the cathedral and Tullie Museum.

Our trip officially ends when we are dropped off at the York train station before noon. There trains can take you to London or other destinations. If your schedule allows, it would be worth your time to tour the walled city of York and York Minster, northern Europe’s largest Gothic cathedral. Another attraction is the Viking-age village of Jorvik, depicted as it stood 1,000 years ago. The York Railway Museum, the largest in the world, is a special treat.

Accommodations and Food

Our shared accommodations will be at B&Bs, country inns, and guesthouses, each offering a warm friendly welcome. Unfortunately single room accommodations are very difficult to find in this area and will not be available. Our luggage will be transported to our new accommodations daily by a carrier service. All meals from lunch on Day 1 to breakfast on Day 14 are included in the trip price. Breakfasts will be English style -- full and hearty. For lunch, you will be given money to buy food from local stores, a sack-lunch from your B&B host, or lunch at a pub or tea-shop where available. Dinners will be provided at our larger accommodations or at nearby pubs or restaurants. Vegetarian options are available at most locations.

PLEASE NOTE: Drinks, including bottled water and soft drinks, are not included in the trip price. (Coffee, tea, and juice are included with breakfasts.) You may also choose to purchase extra hiking snacks and afternoon post-hiking treats.

Trip Difficulty

This trip is designed for experienced hikers currently involved in regular hiking activities -- not just walking. The route will vary in difficulty, with walking distances of up to 12+ miles and elevation gains up to 2,500 feet. All walks will be on trails or paths that could be on steep, rocky, or boggy terrain. Agility is needed to negotiate rocky trails, traverse small streams, and climb stepladder stiles over stone walls without difficulty.

Some rain is to be expected and can make any walk more challenging. Our luggage is shuttled to our accommodations each day; however, each participant must carry a day pack with lunch, drinking water, raingear, a warm sweater, and any other items needed during the day.

Participants should be accustomed to walking at a pace of 2+ miles per hour on level ground and be able to walk up steep grades at a slower pace without undue fatigue. Our walking is not difficult or rushed for a fit hiker; however, for safety reasons it is important that everyone be prepared to keep a similar pace. Please call or email the leader if you have any questions regarding your abilities before signing up for the trip. Your enjoyment of this trip will depend on your preparation and general fitness level. Regular hiking is the only activity that will totally prepare your legs, feet, and ankles for this trip.

Equipment and Clothing

It can rain a lot in England. Even if it is not raining, some areas are very wet and boggy, so high-top waterproof boots are a must. A lightweight, two-piece waterproof rain suit, is also necessary to keep warm and dry. The leader will make other suggestions about clothing in more detailed letters, listing what you may need for daytime and nighttime activities. We highly recommend using trekking poles for added stability on potentially wet and slippery surfaces.

References

Books:

• The classic itinerary for this walk is contained in A. Wainwright’s pictorial guide, A Coast to Coast Walk, a pocket-sized guide jammed full of valuable information, sketches of the area, and minutely detailed descriptions of the ground covered. Getting to know Wainwright, through his witty and thoughtful commentary, is a delight. Keep in mind that our trip takes the best sections of his trip, and adds and omits other areas.
• Reading about the country's natural history and culture beforehand also enhances the participant's enjoyment of the trip. The National Trust Book of Long Walks in England, Scotland and Wales, by Adam Nicolson, available in many libraries, is an excellent resource.
• Other guidebooks that are excellent supplements to Wainwright's classic: Coast to Coast Path, by Henry Stedman, Coast to Coast Walk, by Paul Hannon, and A Northern Coast to Coast Walk, by Terry Marsh.

Maps:

• The Ordnance Survey is Great Britain's national mapping agency and provides the most accurate and up-to-date geographic data. It is relied on by government, businesses, and individuals. Visit their website at: http://www.ordnancesurvey.co.uk/oswebsite/leisure/ Maps are easily purchased in the villages and small towns along our walk.

Photos:

• Photos that the leader took on her 2011 Coast to Coast Walk may be found here: https://picasaweb.google.com/106228360713304248231/EnglandSCoastToCoastWalkMay2011?authuser=0&authkey=Gv1sRgCM6EocK_xrS9CA&feat=directlink

Conservation

England has been heavily populated for hundreds of years and most of the land is utilized for human endeavor. Basically, its national parks are lines drawn around scenic areas, which are largely in private hands, to control development and non-conforming uses. Urban sprawl, intensive farming, motorways, and the demand for vacation facilities place heavy pressure upon open space and wildlife habitat. We will take every opportunity to meet with local conservationists and naturalists to discuss these problems.

Sierra Club is an environmentally focused entity. We are concerned about conservation and sustainability of resources, both locally and globally. Our work is accomplished by volunteers and aided by a salaried staff, and encourages grassroots involvement. Our outings seek to empower participants toward environmentally understanding parallel concerns at home and abroad.

Participants are encouraged to bring information about environmental issues of concern in their area to share with the group. Take this opportunity to educate and encourage us all to engage in conservation advocacy. Every voice really does count.

Trip Price

This trip requires a $200 per-person deposit. An additional payment of $300 per person is due six months prior to trip departure. International trip prices are subject to change and are based on double-occupancy or group accommodations as described above. Single rooms may not be available or may cost more than the listed price. If you have any questions regarding double occupancy, please contact the trip leader.

See the How to Apply for an Outing section for more details on registering for this trip and details about our Reservation and Cancellation Policy.

The payment of a deposit does not confirm you as a member on the trip. Participants must be approved by the trip leader. After signing up for this trip, you will be sent a confirmation packet containing approval materials (Participant Approval Questionnaire, Medical Form, Liability Release Form). Each applicant (including those on the waitlist) must fill out these forms and promptly mail them to the trip leader. The leader will review the approval materials and notify you of your acceptance in a timely manner.

The Sierra Club accurately and fairly budgets and prices our trips. However, unforeseen costs such as devaluation of the dollar compared to other currencies and fuel surcharges assessed by our international providers may necessitate adjustment in trip price. We will make every effort to mitigate and absorb these fees. If a price increase is necessary, however, you will have 14 days after announcement to cancel without penalty.

Staff

Leader:

Francy Rubin is an early retired physical therapist/athletic trainer who loves having time to spend outdoors. She is a strong believer in the concept of "giving back," and has lived this motto through activities ranging from weekly trail maintenance on the Appalachian Trail to five years spent volunteering in Mexico. She now serves as a volunteer Sierra Club leader for trips across the United States and in the Caribbean. Come join her in nature!

E-mail: tomtroyfrancy@yahoo.com

Assistant Leader:

Born in the UK, Deirdre Butler grew up hiking and horseback riding in Dartmoor National Park, southern England. She lived and worked in northern England for a number of years and is excited to be returning to her old "stomping grounds" and sharing her love of the English countryside with you. Before taking early retirement, Deirdre worked in the medical industry and has traveled extensively throughout Asia and the Far East. Since 2001 Deirdre has been leading outings for Sierra Club in her home state of Colorado and is a certified Wilderness First Responder.

E-mail: deirdre@cogico.com

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General Notes About Sierra Club Trips

• Carbon Offsets
• Electronic Devices
• Equipment
• How to Apply for a Trip
• Leader Gratuities
• Liability Release and Assumption of Risk
• Medical Issues
• Non-discrimination Statement
• Participant Approval
• Reservation and Cancellation Policy
• Seller of Travel Disclosure
• Travel Insurance
• Trip Feedback