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The Trip

In a hundred ages of the gods I could not tell thee of the glories of [the Himalaya]…there is no mountain like [the Himalaya] for in it are Kailash and Manasarovar. - From the Hindu epic Ramayana

No mountain in the world is as sacred as Mt. Kailash in western Tibet. Rising to 22,028 feet north of the main Himalayan range, four religions consider it the center of their universe. Hindus believe it’s the earthly manifestation of their spiritual center, Mt. Meru, and the abode of Lord Shiva; Tibetan Buddhists refer to it as Gang Rimpoche, Precious Jewel of Snow, the “navel of the world” rising into the heavens; the pre-Buddhist Bonpo believe it’s where their founder descended from heaven and was the spiritual center of their empire that once extended from Persia to western Tibet; and the Jains believe Mt. Kailash is where their first prophet achieved enlightenment. It’s revered as the source of four of South Asia’s greatest rivers -- the Tsangpo (Brahmaputra), Karnali, Sutlej, and Indus. The pilgrimage to Mt. Kailash is taken on by thousands of pilgrims every year and it’s considered one of the most difficult in Asia.

To ease the difficulty factor for us, we will approach Lake Manasarovar and Mt. Kailash by Land Cruisers from Nepal. Still a four-day dusty, bumpy drive across the austere Tibetan Plateau, the high peaks of the Himalaya beckon our way to holy Lake Manasarovar at the base of Mt. Kailash, where a drink of its waters relinquishes the sins of one hundred lifetimes. Camping along the way, we will walk the four-day, 32-mile kora, or circumambulation, around Mt. Kailash falling in with other pilgrims, some doing the kora with full-body prostrations. We will only have to carry day packs while yaks carry the rest of our gear. Having to cross the 18,500-foot Drolma La, it’s believed that walking one circuit of the mountain absolves the sins of a lifetime, and with 108 circuits you achieve enlightenment.

Once we are sin-free, we drive again to the Nepal border at Zher where we cross into Nepal to begin the seven-day trek through the restricted Limi Valley in the wild far west. An extremely isolated and nearly logistically impossible valley to get to, Limi sees very little trekker traffic, and traditional Tibetan customs and lifestyle are still adhered to. Again camping and hiking with only a day pack, donkeys carry our gear while our Nepali staff cooks our meals and sets-up and takes-down our tents, leaving you free to contemplate and enjoy this spiritual area. Crossing a 16,200-foot pass through the Himalaya exposes a variety of stunning landscapes from open, green pastures to wild flowing rivers to high barren rocks. Hot springs, ancient monasteries where Buddhist books and relics were brought from Tibet to escape Chinese destruction, and views of the 7,000-meter peaks of Gurla Mandhata and Saipal add to the adventure. Sightings of snow leopard, blue sheep, jackals, hyenas, musk deer, and other wildlife may also be possible.

While most people come to the Himalaya to trek on the roof of the world, they are surprised to learn that the many cultures of its ethnic groups are at least as interesting. Nepal’s and Tibet’s true treasure is the warmth and hospitality of their people and this trek offers the opportunity to immerse ourselves with our Nepali staff and local Tibetan folks to experience their land more as a local than a tourist. The sirdar, or head guide and trek organizer, is the leader’s husband of 18 years, so with their staff of extended family and villagers, the pilgrimage feels more like one large traveling family. Indeed this is the trip of a lifetime, but the joy and friendliness of the Himalayan people will beckon you to return again and again!

Itinerary

Travel in Nepal is still truly adventurous and in Tibet it’s still wild and primitive with little in the way of infrastructure. Although we will try to adhere to a daily itinerary, please embrace any changes that may have to be made due to weather, trail conditions, ability of the group, or the serendipity of the unexpected. This is what makes adventure travel fun and enhances your experience.

Day 1: (Arrive Kathmandu) Transfer to our hotel. We’ll have an orientation about the trip, then enjoy a welcome dinner of traditional Nepali fare.

Day 2: (Kathmandu) To recover from jet lag, we’ll take a dawn warm-up walk up 300 feet of stairs to see Hindu and Buddhist temples and to hear the beautiful Newari singing at Swayambunath, the Monkey Temple. The rest of the day is spent first in the Hindu world of Pashupatinath where we’ll see sadhus, temples dedicated to Shiva and a host of other gods, and ritual funeral burnings on ghats along the Bagmati River. Then we enter the Buddhist world at Bodnath, one of the largest stupas in the world. A welcoming home for Tibetan refugees, monasteries and shops selling Tibetan and Buddhist goods circle the stupa as monks chant while doing their kora of the shrine. Dinner at a fine Indian restaurant.

Day 3: (Kathmandu) We spend another day in Kathmandu visiting Patan, one of the three ancient cities of the Kathmandu Valley. We’ll explore its Durbar Square and enjoy time in its excellent museum that displays and explains Hindu and Buddhist art. There will be free time in the afternoon for packing and getting ready for the pilgrimage. Dinner at a restaurant of the leader’s choice.

Day 4: (Kathmandu-Nyalam, Tibet) We board our chartered bus with our staff and gear for an exhilarating ride through the bucolic countryside on the Arniko Highway to the Tibet border. Crossing by foot on the Friendship Bridge into Tibet, we meet our Land Cruisers for the additional 25-mile drive up to Nyalam, 12,350 feet. Overnight in guesthouse accommodations.

Days 5-6: (Nyalam-Saga-Mayum La) We spend the next two days traveling through and seeing the sights of the austere Tibetan Plateau. Climbing quickly to cross a 16,800-foot road pass, we’ll try to get acclimatized to the 15,000-foot plateau. We’ll be guided by high Himalayan peaks and nights will be spent in guesthouses.

Day 7: (Mayum La-Lake Manasarovar) We look forward with anticipation to late morning arrival at the holy lake. One of two vast lakes at the foot of Mt. Kailash, its Tibetan name, Mapham Yumtsho, means the Unconquerable Turquoise Lake. The afternoon is free to explore the trails, monasteries, and other sites around the lake. Either camping or guesthouse accommodations.

Days 8-11: (Lake Manasarovar-Mt. Kailash kora-Zher) We begin the kora first with a drive to Darchen to pick up our yaks and yakmen that will carry our gear. For four days we will hike along with other pilgrims to the monasteries and other sacred sites along the way, gradually climbing to the high pass at Drolma La, 18,500 feet. Our campsites will give us views of Mt. Kailash from all directions. Finishing at Darchen, a few hours' drive gets us to our last campsite in Tibet at Zher, 12,475 feet, along the Nepal border.

Days 12-18: (Zher-Limi Valley-Simikot) At Zher we’ll be hiring donkeys to carry our gear through rarely visited Limi Valley in Nepal. Each step will feel like we’re stepping back in time while passing through authentic Tibetan villages. Birch trees and terraced barley fields glow bright yellow in the autumn sun. Along with ancient monasteries and meditation caves, mountain goats, blue sheep, and snow leopards may also be seen. Soaking in hot springs will prepare us for the climb to 16,200-foot Nyalu La pass with 360-degree views, including 23,000-foot Mt. Saipal and perhaps even Mt. Kailash. Descending back into trees and more hot springs, we finish in the small Hindu village of Simikot.

Days 19-20: (Simikot-Kathmandu) Today we have an early-morning mountain flight from Simikot through the Himalaya and lower hills to the Terai plains town of Nepalgunj along the Indian border. If there are no delays, we should be on a late-morning or afternoon flight to Kathmandu. Transfer to our hotel for hot showers before dinner. A contingency day has been included in case of delays for weather or any other reason.

Day 21: (Kathmandu) We’ll spend our last full day in Kathmandu visiting the medieval town of Bhaktapur, the third ancient city of the Kathmandu Valley. Famous for its Golden Gate and 55 Window Palace among many other things, the peace and quiet there is like going back in time. We’ll honor our trekking staff at our farewell dinner party at a favorite Thamel restaurant.

Day 22: (Depart Kathmandu) We’ll decompress over breakfast at a restaurant that serves American favorites before transferring to the airport for our flights home.

Getting There

The trip begins with pick-up from the international airport in Kathmandu, Nepal. Once you are approved, the leader will provide guidance and contact information for a recommended travel agent who can arrange flights from your home city.

As of this writing, you must travel with a U.S. passport to participate on this outing since current rules require all tourists be the same nationality for the Chinese group visa for Tibet. Your passport must be valid for at least six months beyond the date of entry into Nepal. A Nepal visa is also required and details to apply for that will be provided later.

Accommodations and Food

Double-occupancy rooms in Kathmandu are included with the trip. Our hotel features rooms with private baths and hot showers. It's centrally located within walking distance of many temples and shops, plus it's staffed by friendly, English-speaking folks. Although not fancy, it is clean with several lovely gardens to relax in.

While driving across Tibet, accommodations will be in simple guesthouses that may be quite rustic. On trek, two people will share four-person Eureka Outfitter tents that offer plenty of room for folks and their duffels. Our guides set them up and take them down at each camp. A small amount of hot water is provided each morning for washing and a toilet tent will be set up at each camp for privacy. Boiled water and tea will be available at all meals and water purification will be provided for treating your drinking water. Buying bottled water is discouraged as the bottles are rarely recycled and end up along the trails.

Meals in Kathmandu will be in restaurants catering to Western tastes and hygiene. On trek our kitchen staff prepares hot breakfasts, dinners, AND lunches. Meals feature Nepali, Tibetan, and Western specialties. Vegetarians are easy to accommodate since dal bhat (lentils and rice) is the Nepali staple and prepared at every meal. Any other food restrictions should be indicated to the leader as far in advance as possible. Our staff is well-trained in preparing meals according to western standards of hygiene.

Trip Difficulty

Any Himalayan trek should be considered moderately strenuous meaning mostly moderate hiking with a few strenuous days and this trek is no exception. Daily elevation gains and losses could be as much as 3,500 feet on steep, rough, rocky trails. The highest mandatory altitude is 18,500 feet at Drolma La and several camps will be at 15,000-16,000 feet. All nights will be in tents or rustic guesthouses. You should be in excellent physical condition to do this trek with recent hiking experience above 10,000 feet. Recommendations for an adequate conditioning regime will be provided in a future bulletin to approved trip members.

Early fall is the ideal time to trek in Tibet and Nepal after the monsoon when the weather is dry and clear. Rain is infrequent and usually only lasts a day. However, mountains create their own weather and rain, snow, or a surprise storm can happen unexpectedly anytime. The Tibetan Plateau can be especially windy, blowing fine dust and sand that can get in your eyes and mouth. A bandana or covering for your face can be very helpful. Daytime temperatures of 50-75 degrees can be expected depending on elevation and nighttime temperatures may go down to the 20s at our high camps. Ultra-violet rays from the sun are especially strong above 10,000 feet so long pants, long-sleeved shirts, and high-value spf sunscreen and lip balm are essential.

Yaks, donkeys, or trucks will carry most of your gear, but you will need to carry what you need for the day in a day pack weighing up to 15 pounds. You are encouraged to hike at your own pace, stopping when you wish for photography or other interests. We will have English-speaking Sherpa guides and a Tibetan guide hiking with us to keep us from getting lost. You should be comfortable hiking 3-4 hours in the morning and 2-3 hours in the afternoon after about an hour and a half break for lunch. Because of the rough nature and steepness of the trails, hiking poles are strongly recommended.

As important as your physical conditioning is your mental preparation. The more you familiarize yourself with Tibet and Nepal before the trip, the more you will be able to absorb and enjoy once you get there. The books in the reference section would be a good starting point. Also, flexibility, patience, and a spirit of adventure are necessary. You should be comfortable traveling in rough conditions in close proximity with a group of people and be able to adapt easily to changing conditions. This trip will be especially enjoyable for those with an open mind to embrace new cultures and experiences.

Equipment and Clothing

A detailed equipment list will be sent to approved trip participants. Your personal gear should be packed in a soft duffel bag, no hard-frame packs or suitcases. Duffel weight is limited to 25 pounds. What you carry in your day pack is not counted in your duffel weight. Tents and other trekking equipment and food is carried separately and not counted in your allotment.

References

Books:

The following books will give you a good feel for what the trek will be like. Your local library is also a good resource.

• McCue, Gary, Trekking Tibet, a Traveler’s Guide. 3rd edition, The Mountaineers Books.
• Mayhew, Bradley and Joe Bindloss, Trekking in the Nepal Himalaya. 9th edition, Lonely Planet Publications.
• Moran, Kerry, Moon Handbook Nepal. Avalon Publishing
.
• Moon Handbook Tibet. Avalon Publishing.

Maps:

• Maps of our trekking area will be distributed in Nepal. Nelles Maps’ Tibet and Nepal are good maps of those entire countries.

Conservation

Ninety-six percent of Nepal's fuel energy comes from wood. Since Nepal first opened her doors to tourism, massive deforestation has occurred, resulting in the loss of half of the national forest reserves. The rapidly expanding population also demands more and more space to grow food, and these two factors have resulted in a serious problem. It is said that Nepal's biggest export is the soil carried down its rivers to India each year. In certain areas the environment is being taxed to the limit, and we will have an opportunity to observe this problem firsthand.

Sierra Club outings to Nepal are doing their best not to contribute to this problem. In Kathmandu, our hotel uses solar energy to heat water, and on the trek we use small kerosene stoves to cook on. Do not expect an evening campfire. We try to lessen our impact in other ways as well. Our practice of not bringing unnecessary gear and not burning kerosene to heat luxurious amounts of washing water cuts down drastically on the number of porters needed -- while still keeping individual porter loads to a reasonable weight limit. Other well-known trekking companies sometimes employ literally three times the number of porters we do, a practice that has negative impacts on the remote areas we'll visit.

Tibet has its own problems with the Chinese government strategy of flooding the country with Han Chinese who are taxing Tibet’s meager resources to its limits. Flagrant road-building in both countries in the name of progress is driving unmaintainable roads further into the pristine mountains. Already there’s a road around sacred Lake Manasarovar and rumor has it the Chinese want to build a road around Mt. Kailash to bring in more pilgrims.

Besides observing deforestation, road-building, and the pollution in Kathmandu, you will also hike through pristine countryside and breathe clean air. The people you meet on the trek are feeding themselves without the use of herbicides and pesticides. The Himalayan people have a positive spirit and attitude, and are learning to cope with the problems of the 21st century -- and to understand the successes and failures of the modern world. It will become painfully clear how luxurious our own lifestyle really is compared to that of the overwhelming majority of the world's people, bringing into question our inequitable consumption of the world's precious resources.

Your Western viewpoint will force you to question some of what you see, while your experience will be close enough to the land and people that, if you are perceptive and wise, you will learn much beyond your formal education. People from first- and third-world countries have much to learn from one another. Hopefully, these experiences will make us better world citizens and involve us actively in the search for a balanced, equitable, and sustainable way of life for all of us on this planet.

Trip Price

This trip requires a $200 per-person deposit. An additional payment of $300 per person is due six months prior to trip departure. International trip prices are subject to change and are based on double-occupancy or group accommodations as described above. Single rooms may not be available or may cost more than the listed price. If you have any questions regarding double occupancy, please contact the trip leader.

See the How to Apply for an Outing section for more details on registering for this trip and details about our Reservation and Cancellation Policy.

The payment of a deposit does not confirm you as a member on the trip. Participants must be approved by the trip leader. After signing up for this trip, you will be sent a confirmation packet containing approval materials (Participant Approval Questionnaire, Medical Form, Liability Release Form). Each applicant (including those on the waitlist) must fill out these forms and promptly mail them to the trip leader. The leader will review the approval materials and notify you of your acceptance in a timely manner.

The Sierra Club accurately and fairly budgets and prices our trips. However, unforeseen costs such as devaluation of the dollar compared to other currencies and fuel surcharges assessed by our international providers may necessitate adjustment in trip price. We will make every effort to mitigate and absorb these fees. If a price increase is necessary, however, you will have 14 days after announcement to cancel without penalty.

Staff

Melinda Goodwater went on her first trek to Nepal in 1990 and loved it so much she returned 5 months later. She began leading treks there with her future Nepalese husband in 1992 and lived there through much of the 1990's. She has led over 90 Sierra Club outings everywhere from Alaska, the Sierra, and Rockies, to the desert Southwest. Timesharing between the U.S. and her Nepalese family gives Melinda an insight into the people and culture of Nepal not easily gleaned otherwise. Along with years of experience leading trips in remote and high-altitude situations, Melinda is also a Wilderness First Responder with 80 hours of first aid training. She welcomes you to join her Nepalese trekking family.

E-mail: mgoodwater@sbcglobal.net

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General Notes About Sierra Club Trips

• Carbon Offsets
• Electronic Devices
• Equipment
• How to Apply for a Trip
• Leader Gratuities
• Liability Release and Assumption of Risk
• Medical Issues
• Non-discrimination Statement
• Participant Approval
• Reservation and Cancellation Policy
• Seller of Travel Disclosure
• Travel Insurance
• Trip Feedback