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The Trip

In a way Ecuador could be called the center of the western world. It spans the equator and is draped over the continental divide at the Andes. On this 19-day trip, we will focus on birds. Jewel-like hummingbirds, flamboyant tanagers, raucous parrots and macaws, soaring raptors, exotic umbrellabirds, and shy antpittas will be some of the star attractions. Expect to be dazzled by the amazing diversity of tropical birds as we explore this new itinerary featuring the south of Ecuador.

After two nights in Quito, we will fly to a remote area in the Amazonian lowlands on the Napo River for four nights. We return to Quito before flying south to spend three nights in Cuenca to explore Cajas National Park and the colonial city of Cuenca. We move on to spend seven days visiting Yunguilla Reserve, Saraguro, Podocarpus National Park at Bombuscaro, and Buenaventura Reserve. We fly back to Quito to conclude our trip.

Bird guide and master naturalist, Carlos “Charlie” Gomez, is scheduled to be with us throughout the trip to help locate and identify the many secretive and challenging birds of the tropics. Although our trip will focus on birds, we will keep an ever-watchful eye for resident mammals of the montane forests, including the Puma, South American Tapir, and the rarely seen Spectacled Bear. In the lowlands we will surely see Black Caimans and several species of monkeys, and there is always the possibility of seeing rare Giant Otters.

Itinerary

Day 1: Arrival in Quito. Most flights from the U.S. arrive in Quito in the evening. You will be met at the airport and transferred to Hotel Sebastian. Now at over 9,000 feet, it is time to get a good night’s sleep at our very comfortable hotel. The trip officially begins with your overnight at the hotel and includes your transfer from the airport to the hotel.

Day 2: Day trip to Antisana Reserve. Today will be a day trip to Antisana Reserve just to the east of Quito. Snow-covered Antisana, the fourth highest volcano in Ecuador, is surrounded by beautiful high-elevation páramo and grasslands. This will be a leisurely day to view the spectacular landscape and see several birds unique to these highlands, such as the Black-faced Ibis, Carunculated Caracara, Silvery Grebe, and Andean Condor. In the evening we gather for our welcome reception and dinner.

Day 3: Flight from Quito to Coca and river trip to lodge on Napo River. At an almost leisurely hour we will fly by jet from Quito to the town of Coca, an oil "boomtown" on the Napo River in the "Oriente." This town gives you a firsthand look at the consequences of oil development mixed with rain forest. In Coca we board a large, motorized, covered riverboat for a scenic 2.5-hour trip down the muddy, brown Napo River, one of the major tributaries of the upper Amazon. When we arrive at the river entrance, we will switch to smaller, dugout canoes paddled by our hosts, as they take us up a creek to a blackwater lake, and our lodge. The paddle could take several hours as we look for Hoatzins, jacamars, kingfishers, macaws, and several species of monkeys along the way. We arrive in the late afternoon for a four-night stay at luxurious Anangu Lodge, an extraordinary place for bird watching in Amazonian lowland rain forest. This lodge is owned and operated by the indigenous Quichua community of Anangu. Logging, market hunting, and oil extraction are all actively destroying local forests, but the income from this lodge allows this community to continue to resist these pressures and provides virtually all of Yasuni National Park’s tourism income.

Days 4-6: Full days at lodge on Napo River. We’ll spend our days walking forest trails around Napo Wildlife Center and in surrounding Yasuni National Park, a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve. We will also canoe creeks and classic cochas (oxbow lakes), always on the lookout for Giant Otters. Birding is in terra firme (upland) and varzea (seasonally flooded forest) where we expect to find such regularly occurring species as Great Tinamou, Marbled Wood-quail, Great Potoo, Crested Owl, and this just begins the long list.

Highlights of our stay will include birding from a 120-foot tower high in the forest canopy and visiting some of the most accessible parrot and macaw clay licks in Ecuador. From the tower we’ll be able to spot some of the canopy birds and animals that are virtually impossible to see from the forest floor far below; among the birds are some of the most colorful in the tropics: tanagers, cotingas, honeycreepers, toucans, and parrots. Some genuine rarities that we’ll hope to spot are Collared Puffbird, Rufous-headed Woodpecker, and the Amazonian Umbrellabird. Blinds near some of the clay licks allow birders to watch gatherings of hundreds of colorful parrots and macaws. Locals knew of the clay licks of western Amazonia long before they gained the attention of scientists in 1984. Parrots and macaws live by eating nuts from a variety of trees; some of these nuts contain toxins for self-protection against predation. The birds seemed to have evolved their own response to the toxins by eating certain clays to neutralize the effects of the toxins.

Day 7: Return from Napo River to Quito. After an early morning departure for the return boat trip up the Napo River we will catch our plane for the short flight to Quito, arriving in time for lunch. The afternoon will be available for shopping, a museum visit, or even a nap. Hopefully we can schedule an evening at the Ballet Folkforico.

Day 8: Flight from Quito to Cuenca. This day may bring another early morning departure, this time for an hour-long flight over the snow-covered volcanoes of the Andes to Cuenca (8,301 feet). This beautiful colonial city was declared a UNESCO World Heritage site in 1999. It is a classic example of a “planned Renaissance town in the Americas” with narrow cobbled streets, balconied homes, interior courtyards, and an abundance of churches. It was founded by Spaniards in 1557 and built over the ruins of the Inca city, Tomebamba. We will divide our two and a half days in Cuenca between birding and exploring the city and its surroundings.

Days 9-10: Full days at Cajas and Cuenca. Most of these two days will be in Cajas National Park (9,842-15,764 feet), only 45 minutes from the city of Cuenca. One of the most beautiful wilderness areas in Ecuador, this is a landscape of craggy hills and glacier-scoured valleys, glittering lakes, swirling mists, and superb hiking. On the continental divide, the park includes páramo, high grasslands, and dense humid cloudforest. Some of the unique birds to look for are the Andean Snipe, Titlike Dacnis, Gray-breasted Mountain-toucan, Giant Conebill, Sword-billed Hummingbird, and Violet-throated Metaltail (a hummingbird endemic to the Cajas region). Rains often come to the high country in early afternoon, so when it happens we will return to Cuenca for city sightseeing.

Day 11: Cuenca to Saraguro by way of Yunguilla Reserve. Departure this morning will be very early to get to the Reserve at Yunguilla (2,500-3,000 feet) in a small dry valley with Tumbesian influence; this is the home to the entire population of the rare and endemic Pale-naped Brush-finch, protected in this Jocotoco Foundation Reserve. We will end the day in Saraguro (approximately 9,500 feet), home of a distinct group of indigenous people whose forebearers originally came from the altiplano region of Titicaca, Bolivia. Relocated in Saraguro by the Incas, they still maintain many of their traditions as well as their very distinctive clothing. Our lodging will be near the central plaza of Saraguro where pleasant strolls await.

Day 12: Saraguro to Zamora. Before we leave the Saraguro area we should look for several mountain tanagers, Red-crested Cotinga, Bar-bellied Woodpecker, and possibly the rare Crescent-faced Antpitta. Driving east we will pass through some very “birdy” cloud forest (to 9,190 feet) on the "old Loja-Zamora road." When we have had our fill of highland birds, we will climb on board our bus to descend to the lowland portion of eastern Podocarpus National Park where we will stay at a lovely lodge in Zamora (2,900 feet) for three nights.

Days 13-14: Full days at Zamora and environs. We will have two full days for Bombuscaro, the eastern entrance to Podocarpus National Park. In this wonderfully diverse area we can look for some bird species of narrow distribution such as White-breasted Parakeet, and Coppery-chested Jacamar, as well as Lanceolated Monklet, Black-mandibled Toucan, Foothill Antwren, Blue-rumped Manakin, and the fabulous Paradise Tanager. Hiking in the low montane forest along the river at Bombuscaro is delightful.

Day 15: Zamora to Buenaventura Reserve. This will be our last chance to look for our share of the more than 50 species of both hummingbirds and tanagers that are on the bird list for Podocarpus National Park. As we leave Zamora we will continue to bird along the roadside and in the dry areas of the Catamayo Valley. In this region of dry scrub vegetation we can hope to find more specialties, such as Long-tailed Mockingbird, Pacific Parrotlet, Peruvian Meadowlark, Saffron Finch, Croaking Ground-dove, and Elegant Crescent-chest. Our destination is the Umbrella Lodge (approximately 3,000 feet) at the Buenaventura Reserve of the Jocotoco Foundation.

Days 16-17: Full days at Buenaventura Reserve and environs. We have two full days to bird and explore Buenaventura Reserve and possibly look for additional Tumbesian species in El Oro Province. Leisure time will be filled watching the hummingbird feeders at the Umbrellabird Lodge. The reserve, which became famous by the recent discovery of the El Oro Parakeet, was created especially to protect eight threatened species of birds. Of course, we will search for that famous parakeet as well as the lodge’s namesake, the Long-wattled Umbrellabird.

Day 18: Buenaventura to Quito by air. We will drive to a nearby airport for our flight back to Quito. Depending upon flight schedules, we may have time for morning birding, or more likely, we will have a little time in Quito for last-minute shopping. Our last meal together will be a farewell dinner in the evening.

Day 19: Departure from Quito hotel. Transfer to the international airport for flights departing to the U.S. or plan a post-trip adventure on your own or with the help of our friends at Neblina Forest. Most flights to the U.S. leave early in the morning, but if the hotel dining room has opened before you leave, breakfast will be provided.

Getting There

Your passport should be valid for at least six months from the starting date of this trip. No visa is required for holders of U. S. passports. Travelers from the U.S. can choose from a number of airlines. Most flights from the U. S. arrive in the evening and this is anticipated in planning the itinerary. Return flights generally leave in the morning, sometimes very early. Participants should arrive no later than Sunday, October 20. Return flights can be scheduled anytime Thursday, November 7 or later.

Quito, the nation’s capital, sits at the northern end of the country in a high Andean valley 14 miles south of the Equator. Culturally, Quito provides a fascinating mix of colonial and aboriginal. Colorful native markets and fiestas, pre-Columbian artifacts, and historically impressive 16th-century Spanish colonial architecture mingle with modern glass-and-steel buildings. This centuries-old city lies in an arid, intermontane valley between north-south cordilleras, and is surrounded by breathtaking scenery. On clear days you can view the majesty of snow-capped Cotopaxi volcano from Quito.

When you make your plans for travel you should consider a few extra days before (to get used to the altitude and rest from the long flight) or after the trip to visit the artesania (folk art and crafts) center in Otavalo, to check out a few museums, galleries, and the botanical garden, to experience the equator, or to extend your trip bird list with a visit to one of the Mindo lodges.

Accommodations and Food

This is not a camping trip, but it is not a luxury trip either. Our accommodations vary from extremely pleasant lodges to a very comfortable hotel. Rooms are double occupancy, and roommates will be assigned for those traveling solo. Single rooms, when available, may be requested for an additional cost. At Saraguro, some rooms will be multiple-occupancy. Most rooms have private baths, hot water, and electricity. Windows are screened in warmer regions. Food will vary with each location; vegetarians can be accommodated. (Please let the leader know in advance if you have special diet needs.) Water should be bottled or boiled.

Trip Difficulty

To enjoy this trip you need to have a strong interest in birds. You must be in reasonably good health and you should be able to walk up to possibly three miles each a day at a "birder’s pace," sometimes over irregular, muddy, even steep trails. You can count on early morning starts each day to take advantage of those precious hours when birds are most active. When birds are resting in the early afternoon, we may also rest, but when the rain or heat of the day is over, we will be birding again, sometimes until well after sunset. It is not a strenuous trip and could be classified as leisurely, except that days will be very full and we will often be in the field from dawn to dusk. Stamina is important. A good-humored and flexible attitude toward traveling in Latin America is required. Weather happens. Surprises are the rule. Plans are made, and plans get changed, often resulting with a fine reward.

Activities will include considerable walking, some hours sitting in a riverboat, some standing around while searching for birds, and a climb of a 120-foot tower (optional, but highly recommended). A good sense of balance will be needed while boarding and disembarking the dugout canoes. Elevation gain and loss on our hikes will be minimal, but we will be birding above 9,000 feet on several different days, and on two days we will actually be above 12,000 feet for a few hours. The heat and humidity in the lowlands may bother those not used to it. While all hikes are optional, the trip will be more satisfying to those physically able to participate in all activities and willing to enjoy the wet weather expected in the equatorial tropics.

No vaccinations are required, although inoculation for Yellow Fever is strongly recommended for travel in the Amazonian lowlands. Be sure your Hepatitis A and Tetanus are up-to-date. While Malaria and Typhoid are not a high risk, each visitor to the Amazon should consult with his personal physician regarding precautions. If you are prone to discomfort at high altitudes, you should also discuss this issue with your doctor. Diamox, when taken prior to sudden exposure to high altitude (arriving by air in Quito at 9,200 feet, for example), can be helpful for most people.

Equipment and Clothing

You must have a good pair of birding binoculars. These should be gas filled to prevent moisture from getting inside. This trip would be a good excuse to treat yourself to a new, excellent pair of binoculars, but be sure you take plenty of time to get thoroughly used to them and to test them well before the trip. You will need good rain gear, an umbrella, a day bag, boots for muddy trails, and clothes for a warm, humid climate; for hot, dry times; and also for cool, damp days. It can snow at Antisana! A packing list and many more details will be provided later.

References

• Ridgely, Robert, and Greenfield, Paul J., The Birds of Ecuador - Vol. I Field Guide. New, heavy, expensive but the most complete field guide for Ecuador.
• Roos, Wilma and Omer van Renterghem, Ecuador In Focus. Concise and current survey of politics and history, people and culture, economics and oil. Quite readable.
• Pearson, David L., and Beletsky, Les, Ecuador and the Galapagos Islands. One of the Travellers’ Wildlife Guides, it covers some more common birds, mammals, reptiles and butterflies with discussions of family groups. (Borrow from library for pre-trip study.)
• Forsyth, A., and K. Miyata, Tropical Nature: Life and Death in the Rain Forests of Central and South America. An excellent introduction to rainforest ecology.
• Hilty, Steven, Birds of Tropical America. Very readable natural history of bird life of tropical Central and South America.
• MAP: International Travel Maps, scale 1:700,000. (Available from Amazon.com)

Conservation

Sierra Club is an environmentally focused entity. We are concerned about conservation and sustainability of resources, both locally and globally. Our work is accomplished by volunteers, aided by a salaried staff, encouraging grassroots involvement. Our outings seek to empower participants toward environmentally understanding parallel concerns at home and abroad.

With one of the densest human populations in South America and with close to a third of its people living in poverty, Ecuador faces a host of environmental problems and disasters waiting to happen. The list includes deforestation at a high rate to accommodate hungry colonists in search of new agricultural fields and cattle pastures, logging companies interested in quick profits but not in conservation, mining, destruction of mangroves to create shrimp beds, urban sprawl and road development, the widespread use of pesticides in agriculture, and the introduction of domestic species (bananas and African Oil Palm) that compete with native species. However, dominating most political decisions is the economic power of oil.

But behind all this pessimism, there is hope. With increasing frequency environmental awareness is being taught in schools and is being discussed on television and in newspapers. Groups of NGOs, tourist agencies, and indigenous peoples are working together to solidify their power and convince the government that ecotourism is an important part of Ecuador’s future. You will see and hear of examples of the progress in the land-acquisition accomplishments by the Jocotoco Foundation, national parks, and at the community-owned Napo Wildlife Center. Part of our tourist dollars is converted into land purchases by these groups and is an investment in the Ecuadorian people.

Trip Price

This trip requires a $200 per-person deposit. An additional payment of $300 per person is due six months prior to trip departure. International trip prices are subject to change and are based on double-occupancy or group accommodations as described above. Single rooms may not be available or may cost more than the listed price. If you have any questions regarding double occupancy, please contact the trip leader.

See the How to Apply for an Outing section for more details on registering for this trip and details about our Reservation and Cancellation Policy.

The payment of a deposit does not confirm you as a member on the trip. Participants must be approved by the trip leader. After signing up for this trip, you will be sent a confirmation packet containing approval materials (Participant Approval Questionnaire, Medical Form, Liability Release Form). Each applicant (including those on the waitlist) must fill out these forms and promptly mail them to the trip leader. The leader will review the approval materials and notify you of your acceptance in a timely manner.

The Sierra Club accurately and fairly budgets and prices our trips. However, unforeseen costs such as devaluation of the dollar compared to other currencies and fuel surcharges assessed by our international providers may necessitate adjustment in trip price. We will make every effort to mitigate and absorb these fees. If a price increase is necessary, however, you will have 14 days after announcement to cancel without penalty.

Staff

A birding enthusiast and naturalist, Carol Dienger began leading trips over 40 years ago. Beginning with backpack trips in the Sierra Nevada for Sierra Club families and for Santa Clara County Girl Scouts, she soon added leading trips to Baja, Costa Rica and Alaska for sea-kayaking, to Austria for cross-country skiing, and a whole variety of wilderness exploration trips in Alaska and Canada. For close to 20 years her trips have focused on natural history, and in particular, on birding. Retired from her work as an architectural designer specializing in solar mountain homes and from her volunteer job as the coordinator of the Club's national outing program in Alaska, Carol spends her newly gained "leisure time" gardening, woodworking, studying Spanish, enjoying the grandkids, and chasing birds wherever they may be. This will be her seventh trip to Ecuador. Your trip leader is one of the many who have a great passion for hummingbirds. She savors the gem-like names of these iridescent little beauties: Violet-throated Metal-tail, Flame-throated Sunangel, Rainbow Starfrontlet, Mountain Velvet-breast, Wire-crested Thorntail, Shining Sunbeam, and Mountain Avocetbill. The names are almost as spectacular as these miraculous little birds, which are unique to the Americas. Most lodges that cater to birders have feeders hung to attract hummers in for close observation. It is not unrealistic to see 40 or even 50 species on this trip. A list of hummingbirds that we might expect will be provided for pre-trip study.

E-mail: caroldienger@earthlink.net

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General Notes About Sierra Club Trips

• Carbon Offsets
• Electronic Devices
• Equipment
• How to Apply for a Trip
• Leader Gratuities
• Liability Release and Assumption of Risk
• Medical Issues
• Non-discrimination Statement
• Participant Approval
• Reservation and Cancellation Policy
• Seller of Travel Disclosure
• Travel Insurance
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