I wanted To begin my Canada-to-Argentina bike trip on the 2,745-mile Great Divide Mountain Bike Route. The guidebook said That you should start by mid-August. I figured I could ride faster than most, so I decided to leave on October 3. The weather had been great, so I wasn't worried. I should have been. —Byron Enns
Illustration: Koren Shadmi
October 3 brought the first snowstorm of the year. As I was fixing my third flat of the day, a kind soul stopped and offered me a beer.