A Peek at Two Wild Gems

SierraScape December 2008 - January 2009
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by Mike Bollinger
Conservation Committee Chair
photos contributed by Bob Gestel

On Sunday, October 19th nine Sierrans embarked on a beautiful, but brief fall outing with a purpose. Which is not to say that outings don't normally have a purpose. Rather, this one had an additional purpose besides the "normal" goals to explore and enjoy wild places– two of the three pillars of the Club's motto. This outing also provided a direct opportunity to experience the wilderness environs of two special areas, Lower Rock Creek and Van East Mountain.

The Van East Mountain wilderness area is a tract of just over 2000 acres of Mark Twain National Forest with its peak reaching 1130 feet in elevation. The Lower Rock Creek wilderness area is much larger, almost 14,000 acres. The property is mostly Mark Twain National Forest but includes some acreage owned by the LAD Foundation. The Creek, a tributary of the St. Francis River, is considered by many to be one of the State's "wildest and most spectacularly scenic areas." I refer to both as small "w" wilderness areas, in contrast to those 'true' Wilderness areas designated as such in accordance with the Federal Wilderness Act of 1964. In Missouri, we have seven Wilderness Areas, all officially designated based on the hard work and dedication of advocates working in the late 70's and early 80's. In total they comprise less than five percent of the state's National Forest lands. Seven additional wilderness areas that were considered back then, but failed to achieve designation, remain vulnerable. These include both Van East Mountain and Lower Rock Creek. Now there is a renewed effort to include them in the National Wilderness Preservation System.

Earlier this year, as we discussed the statewide effort to promote the Federal designation of these seven small "w" wilderness areas at an EMG ConsCom meeting, we hatched the idea of visiting two of the candidate sites in our "backyard" for a first hand look at what makes them special. Paul Stupperich took on the planning, scheduling and coordination to turn this concept into reality.

Our mid-October outing, began with a meeting at a commuter lot in south county to sort out details for carpooling and directions. We drove about an hour and a half, to access Lower Rock Creek from its southern side from Highway E just west of Hwy 67, in Madison County. Paul Stupperich led us on a two mile hike into the National Forest towards a scenic spot on the bank of Lower Rock Creek. The leaves were beginning to change and weather was splendid - both cool temperatures and blue cloudless skies. We actually had three seasoned Outings Leaders on the hike, Paul, Suzanne Smith, and Bob Gestel. As I mentioned, Paul led the way while Bob took up the rear, a position outings volunteers refer to as the sweeper. We accessed Lower Rock Creek at a beautiful site, a shut-ins with a clear flowing stream bubbling and cascading through rhyolite bedrock bluffs, shelves, and outcroppings. It is truly difficult to express in words just how impressive this area is. The beauty of this wild setting in combination with its easy accessibility (just a short drive from St. Louis and a brief walk) makes it seem all that much more precious and vulnerable. The pleasure of a hike in the wilderness with like minded friends is also difficult to express. A good time was had by all, even on this short hike, with conversations ranging from plant identification and prior mountain climbing excursions to living in South America and the wisdom of flu shots–all based on first hand experiences of hikers in our small group. Trails like the one we walked that day are a great example of an Appalachian Trail slogan I came across recently–"a footpath for those who seek fellowship with the wilderness". But our hike was quickly over, as we wanted to also see portions of Van East Mountain before heading home.

While these two wilderness areas adjoin, it takes a bit of driving to see them both in the same day by road; if you had the time, it would be much nicer to travel between them on foot (as the crow flies). But we drove, west on Hwy E, to Hwy 21 north, to Hwy D east, and on to Hwy FF; a circuitous route, yet one that allowed us to see Van East Mountain from various vantage points. We stopped and looked around for a while at a trail head, which leads up to the summit, although we didn't have time to take in a second hike. Those who had hiked it before shared their perspectives, all explained the views, features and special characters which make it unique. And a few passing pick-up trucks with trailers packed with quad-runners, provided an immediate reminder of one of the largest risks these areas face–without the protection of Federal Wilderness Designation.

Before wrapping up our visit, we reviewed the reasons these two (as well as the other seven) areas should be listed and what steps each of us could take to help make that happen. We encourage everyone to help–to do your part–the third "Protect The Wild Places of the Earth" pillar of the Sierra Club motto. For specific ideas, please see prior articles on this topic in the Sierran (missouri.sierraclub.org/SierranOnline/2008/01/wilderness.html), pick up a copy of the "Wilderness for Missouri" newspaper at the Club Office, or contact Caroline Pufalt at 314-721-7207 or cpufalt@sbcglobal.net or Michael Bollinger at mfbollinger@gmail.com or 636-938-6594.