Cross Country: A Guide to Backcountry Skiing in Maine

By Gina DeCaprio Vercesi

November 4, 2016

One of the lodgings in the Maine Huts and Trails system.

One of the lodgings in the Maine Huts and Trails system | Photo by John Orcutt Nature Photography

  • WHERE Kingfield, Maine
  • HOW MUCH $40 to $90 per night, depending on season, including meals
  • MORE mainehuts.org

In Maine's backcountry, you can hike, ski, or snowshoe from one sustainable abode to another.

GETTING THERE The four huts in the Maine Huts and Trails system sit along a woodsy stretch of trail in the wilds of western Maine. To find the trailheads, follow the directions supplied on mainehuts.org. I stayed with a friend at Poplar Hut, off the Airport Trailhead, nine miles from MH&T's headquarters in Kingfield. From the trailheads, huts are accessible by human power only. 

BEST MOMENT Snuggling on the big couch in front of the woodstove with a bottle of Allagash White beer after our ski to the hut and subsequent icy snowshoe hike down to Poplar Stream Falls. The afternoon sun shone through the floor-to-ceiling windows and gleamed off the bright pine walls. Then there was dinner: hearty beef stew served family-style with a big salad, fresh bread, and red wine. 

A map shows the location of the Maine Huts and Trails system.
Map by Peter and Maria Hoey

FAVORITE CHARACTER Melie Guzek, a.k.a. Rainbow to her Appalachian Trail buddies, was our wonderful host. This dynamic young woman is a passionate supporter of the Maine Huts and Trails organization, and of green living in general. She spoke with authority about the complex systems that keep the huts' footprint small. She also baked a sublime pie, filled with wild local blueberries.

WHAT'S GREEN What isn't? The seasonal staffers who run the Maine huts are deeply committed to keeping everything minimal but comfortable. Eco-amenities include biocompatible soap, toilets that use just three ounces of water per flush, solar panels, and a boiler that generates radiant floor heating from burning local wood. These folks also strive to create a truly off-the-grid experience, so guests are encouraged to disconnect from screens. 

WHAT'S NOT GREEN Poplar Hut relies on propane-fired backup generators for some of its energy. That demand is usually offset by solar power (the hut's finicky hydropower turbine has been out of commission for a couple of years).  

PLANET-SAVING OPPORTUNITIES You can build or maintain a nearby trail, pitch in serving meals, or do chores in exchange for an overnight stay—every little bit helps the nonprofit inch toward its longtime goal of building eight more sustainable huts along the 180-mile stretch of trail from Moosehead Lake to the Mahoosuc Range.

Take a Sierra Club trip to Maine. For details, go to sc.org/outings