How Not to Climb a Mountain

John Muir gets stuck

By John Muir

Illustrations by Koren Shadmi

April 18, 2017

Mount Ritter is king of the middle portion of the High Sierra. I had explored the adjacent wilderness, but my studies had never drawn me to the top. It is fenced by steeply inclined glaciers and canyons of tremEndous depth. But difficulties of this kind o

Mount Ritter is king of the middle portion of the High Sierra. I had explored the adjacent wilderness, but my studies had never drawn me to the top. It is fenced by steeply inclined glaciers and canyons of tremendous depth. But difficulties of this kind only exhilarate the mountaineer... My first day was pure pleasure, tracing happy streams and learning the habits of the birds and marmots. The next morning, immediately in front of me loomed the majestic mass of Mount Ritter.

My first day was pure pleasure, tracing happy streams and learning the habits of the birds and marmots. The next morning, immediately in front of me loomed the majestic mass of Mount Ritter.

I began to climb. having passed several dangerous spots, I dared not think of descending. My instincts were leading me astray.

I began to climb. having passed several dangerous spots, I dared not think of descending. My instincts were leading me astray.

After gaining a point about halfway to the top, I was suddenly brought to a dead stop, with arms outspread, clinging to the face of the rock, unable to move hand or foot either up or down. My doom appeared fixed. I must fall. 

Life blazed forth. My trembling muscles became firm again, and my limbs moved with positiveness and precision. Had I been borne aloft upon wings, my deliverance could not have beEn more complete.

Life blazed forth. My trembling muscles became firm again, and my limbs moved with positiveness and precision. Had I been borne aloft upon wings, my deliverance could not have been more complete. 

Ask the Expert
Daniel Arnold is the author of Early Days in the Range of Light, in which he retraces Muir's climbs in the Sierra.

"Sierra climbers should have, at a minimum, sticky rubber boots or climbing shoes, a 60-meter dynamic rope, a handful of nuts and cams, and a partner. When in a tough spot, preparation and training are preferable to trust in angelic intervention."