Mountaineering has been near to the core of the Sierra Club since its founding in 1982. Trips have been organized into the High Sierra since the early 1900’s. Mountaineering was somewhat casual in the beginning with adventurous persons pursuing summits with little more than their wits. Over time, mountaineering has become quite structured due to advances in equipment, techniques, understandings, safety perceptions, as well as the large number of people involved in the sport. 

Mountaineering described here is at the moderate (M) and increasing exposure (E) levels. Advanced mountaineering such as class 5 rock climbing and technical snow/ice climbing on quite vertical terrain is not included.

Locally, in the Angeles Chapter, the M- and E-level outings began with the Desert Peaks Section (DPS) and then the Sierra Peaks Section (SPS). Now, M- and E-level outings may be sponsored by DPS, SPS, LTC, WTC, and Ski Mountaineers Section.

The Chapter's Leadership Training Program presents guidance for potential leaders with regard to specific technical components of outings. In the case of mountaineering trips, this includes technical skills of preparing anchors, belays, and rappels on rock and snow terrain. An advanced level of navigation is added at the E-level. The Program also presents general skills for leadership including Club policies and procedures, and group management. The Wilderness Training Course (WTC) presents introductory skills training for navigation, rock scrambling, snow travel and overnight camping. The LTC's Advanced Mountaineering Program (AMP) presents supplemental training in anchors, belays, and rappels on rock terrain. The wide range of training opportunities offers a potential leader various approaches to developing mountaineering skills at a pace that suits their lifestyle. 

Advanced Ratings: M and E

M-level outings include skills for class 3 rock climbs that involves frequent use of hands for upward progress, and moderate snow climbs that may require use of an ice axe or crampons, as well as navigation skills.
There are three variants of the M leader rating:
·       M-Rock leaders may lead class 3 rock climbs but not moderate snow climbs.
·       M-Snow leaders may lead moderate snow climbs but not class 3 rock climbs.
·       Full M leaders may lead both class 3 rock climbs and moderate snow climbs.

E-level outings add skills for leading class 4 rock that involves more consistent use of hands for upward progress and skills for leading steep snow climbs that require the use of an ice axe and crampons. E-level outings involve more exposure to falling with increasing risk; consequently, for safety it is common to use anchors, belays, rappels, and roped travel.
There are three variants of the E leader rating:
·       E-Rock leaders may lead class 4 rock climbs but not steep snow climbs.
·       E-Snow leaders may lead steep snow climbs but not class 4 rock climbs.
·       Full E leaders may lead both class 4 rock climbs and steep snow climbs.

T-level outings: Note that a few Angeles Chapter entities offer outings rated T for technical. These outings require specialized skills and leaders of these trips are approved by the entity to lead the technical aspect of the outing in addition to having an appropriate leader rating granted by the Angeles Chapter Safety Committee.  Examples include sailing and ski mountaineering.

Helpful Stuff
> Learn specifics about the M-E Leader requirements and the Provisional Lead Committee (PLC) on the M-E Requirements page. 
> Need Forms? See Forms & Safety menu. 
> Want to learn mountaineering techniques? Check out AMP, the Advanced Mountaineering Program, offered twice a year, sponsored by LTC. You have to be a Sierra Club member and have some basic experience with rock/roped climbing.
> Have you been given "access' to Campfire Events? Learn more on our Campfire Events page - the online method of entering events that outings chairs coordinate.
> Here is a sample Mountaineering Resume (pdf).  TO LINK
> Visit Trip Planning for information of interest to outings leaders and chairs, including Rules of Conduct.
> Mountaineering Oversight Committee (MOC): A National committee that reviews all Club mountaineering outings and leaders. More information to come.

The Sierra Peaks Section (SPS) provides in-depth discussion of the intricacies of class 3 and 4 routes. Sierra Peaks Section | Sierra Club. Search for Mountain Scrambler Ratings.