M-E Requirements

The M Ratings Requirements

About Provisionals: see below
The Angeles Chapter offers leaders at the M level to be certified in both rock and snow, rock only, or snow only:
  • M rating: Qualified to lead all M-level outings—rock, snow, or rock and snow combined
  • M-Rock rating: Qualified to lead all M-rated outings where M-level rock travel (but no M-level snow travel) is required
  • M-Snow rating: Qualified to lead all M-rated outings where M-level snow travel (but no M-level rock travel) is required.
Training and certification for M-Rock [Snow] rating are based on current standards for the M-rating, including
• Be an I-rated leader (or see below fif not an I-rated leader)
• Pass an M-Rock or Snow technical checkoff. See Home page for list of events.
• Be current in wilderness first aid and CPR. See First Aid for more information.
• Complete an M-level written exam. Contact LTC Admins for the exam. 
• Provide evidence in a climbing resume of experience on an appropriate number of rock [snow] experience trips at Class 3 or higher to reach provisional status, as assessed by the Provisional Lead Committee of LTC.
• For M-Rock: lead a provisional outing including at least 100 feet of 3rd class rock climbing
• For M-Snow: lead a provisional outing consisting of at least 400 feet of elevation gain on a snow slope between 25 and 35 degrees and requiring the use of an ice axe.
If a leader candidate for M-Rock or M-Snow is not an I rated leader, these are the additional requirements:
• Complete two days (14 hours) of Environmental Awareness training. 
• Pass the I/M-level Navigation check-off. 
• Lead a second provisional outing at the I- or M-level that demonstrates navigation, and one for M-Rock or
M-Snow (see above); both provisional outings should include a significant amount of off-trail wilderness travel that requires I/M level navigation. One provisional lead must be an overnight backpack; the other may be a day hike.
The requirements for the full M (both rock and snow) remain the same, requiring two M-level provisional outings, one on rock and one on snow, with both provisional outings including a significant amount of off-trail wilderness travel that requires I/M level navigation.
 

The E Ratings Requirements

The Angeles Chapter offers leaders at the E level to be certified in both rock and snow, rock only, or snow only.
  • E rating: Qualified to lead all currently-defined E-level outings—rock, snow, or rock and snow combined
  • E-Rock rating: Qualified to lead all currently-defined E-rated outings where E-level rock travel (but no E-level snow travel) is required
  • E-Snow rating: Qualified to lead all currently-defined E-rated outings where E-level snow travel (but no E-level rock travel) is required
The requirements for the full E (both rock and snow) remain the same. Training and certification for the E-Rock or E-Snow rating are based on the following standards:
  • Be a full M-rated leader if seeking an E-rock or E-snow rating (M rating not required for full E rating
  • Pass the applicable E-technical checkout (rock for E-Rock or Snow for E-Snow) and the E-level navigation checkoff.
  • Be current in WFA or higher and CPR. See First Aid for more information.
  • Provide evidence in a climbing resume of experience on an appropriate number of rock/snow experience trips at Class 4 or higher to reach provisional status, as assessed by the Provisional Lead Committee (PLC) of LTC (see more on PLC below).  See sample Resume.
  • For E-Rock: lead two provisional outings including at least 200 feet of 4th class rock climbing that requires the use of ropes and belays.
  • For E-Snow: lead two provisional outings consisting of at least 800 feet of elevation gain on a snow slope greater than 35 degrees requiring the use of an ice axe and crampons.
  • All provisional E outings must be approved by the LTC's Provisional Lead Committee (PLC) and the national Mountaineering Oversight Committee (MOC).
  • Complete an E-level written exam. Contact LTC Admins for the exam. 
The requirements for the full E (both rock and snow): Lead three provisional outings; one rock provisional including at least 200 ft. of 4th class rock climbing that requires use of ropes and belays, one snow provisional consisting of at least 800 ft. of elevation gain on a snow slope greater than 35 degrees requiring use of an ice axe and crampons; and one additional provisional outing of either rock or snow category. 
 
Here is a sample Mountaineering Resume and a Planning a Trip document. 
 
Mountaineers in Sierra Nevada

PROVISIONALS

All provisionals must be approved by the Provisional Lead Committee (PLC) and the Mountaineering Oversight Committee (MOC).. PLC coordinator contact: ltcprovisionalleadcommittee@gmail.com.

Provisional Lead Committee (PLC)


The PLC reviews all M-E provisional plans. Members include the LTC Chair, Vice-chair, Rock Chair, Snow Chair, Navigation Chair, and LTC Administrative Chair. The following requests shall be sent to ltcprovisionalleadcommittee@gmail.com:

  • Requests to be granted M or E level provisional status.  The request shall be accompanied by a comprehensive climbing resume.  The request shall specifically indicate whether the request is for M-Rock, M-Snow, Full-M, E-Rock, E-Snow, or Full-E.
  • Requests for approval of specific M or E level provisional trip. The request shall be accompanied by a draft Mountaineering Oversight Committee (MOC) application.
  • Within 24 hours of receipt of request by PLC Coordinator, the PLC Coordinator shall Log the request, then:
    •    Review the leader’s record and determine if the required checkoffs have been completed. 
    •    Inform the candidate if all requirements have not been met.
    •    Forward the request to the Provisional Lead Committee if all requirements have been met.


The PLC will review the candidate information and PLC members will vote to approve or deny the request within seven (7) days of receiving the request.  An affirmative vote by at least four members of the PLC is required to approve a request.  However, if any member of the PLC has voted against the request, additional discussion will take place so that the person voting against the request has an opportunity to convince other members to revise their votes.